Big Wall Gear Notes

[Lambone]

These are some comment's I made to Jim Nelson about some big wall Gear I aquired at his shop. Thought it might be of some intrest here. Let me know if you have any questions....

 

Lowa Triolet-

Awsome wall boot! Super tough, my rands and all the stitching are still in great shape. I climbed some 5.7 in them with full wall weight on, and they worked fine. Sticky rubber is the only thing that could make them perfect for me. I bought the womens model and they fit my narrow foot well. Nice and comfy in the aiders all day, no preasure points.

 

Mamut Supersafe-

Bomber. Plus it has a nice supple feel. Ours didn't take a single sheath nick. It was kinda funny because with three people we needed two lead ropes, we ended up using two identical Supersafes, tons of green rope to un-fustercluck!

 

Kong Fifi-

I love this thing, but as a WARNING: the orange 5 or 6 mil chord you sell at the shop is NOT thick enough. After it softened up, it would slip. Acctually the two chords that "bite" on one another would exchange places and it would no loger grip. Do you know what I meen by that?

 

Metolius Adjustable Daisies-

I think I am over these things. They may save energy on overhanging terrain, but I found that cranking in on the straps all day on lead was realy fatiguing on my shoulders. I had to quit tighting them with my right arm. I think overall they slow you down and add more fustercluck then they are worth. Plus with a Kong Fifi they are just redundant. Also, there were many times when they just wern't long enough, even at full extention, and once at full extention they are hard to tighten because there is nothing to grab. I'm going back to traditional daisies.

 

Petzl Mini-Traction-

Great little hauler, I am happy with it. We primarily used it to haul up our tag rope (8 mil) with the extra ropes and junk with. No complaints, it did it's job well. Our Pro-Traxion, which was our main hauling device worked great. HOWEVER, warn people that it can slip. The cam would not catch the load on one pitch when we clipped the locking biner straight into the bolt. I think it needs to maintain some mobility by clipping it into a flexible sling. With a degree of freedom it worked fine. I also use both pulleys together to rig a 3:1 on the first day (heavy ass pigs).

 

CCH Alien Hybrids-

Without a doubt, the most valuable piece on the rack. All your aid climbing costomers should buy two sets, if you can keep them in stock. Enough said.

 

HB Offset Nuts-

The second most valuable pieces on the rack, especialy the yellow, green and blue brass ones. The aluminum ones are nice two, we had two sets and didn't even bother with regular nuts.

 

WC Zero's-

I had one Green one. I didn't use it much, but it did allow me to avoid using Lost Arrow pins at one point. It's a handy clean aid piece, but easy to get it stuck.

 

Trango Ballnutz-

Similar in use to the Zero, used in lost arrow scars, helped avoid nailing at a few points. Difficult to clean after bounce testing and pretty fragile.

 

Smart Wool thin shirt-

Thins thing was great! I wore it the whole way up El Cap and it never felt hot in the sun, and it kept me warm when the cool evening breezes would pick up. Only two complaints, it doesn't seem to be as durable as other synthetic shirts I have used in the past, it shrunk a little in the wash, and it is permenantly discolored, but not a big deal. I just hope that it holds up for a few more walls.

 

Hmmm, well that is about all I can think of right now...

 

 

 

 

[glen]

I see the photos and I see the gear review... where's the Double Wall TR? Are you turning into enough of a gear weenie that that comes out before the bragging?

[lummox]

Lambone said:

blah blah blah . . . I bought the womens model . . .blah blah blah . . . It was kinda funny . . . blah blah blah. . . Hmmm, well that is about all I can think of right now...

fuckin a. glad you wernt feeling chatty and shit.