boonecounty Posted July 1, 2003 Posted July 1, 2003 I soloed Liberty Ridge starting on Wed at 4pm from the white river trailhead. Climbed in my lowa struktura and hauled my helestinx along for the ride. thanks for the bootrack through the glacier Gig Harbor guys I met on Curtis Ridge. Slept at thumbrock for 2 hours from 1:30 to 3:30pm. Then boogied. Watch out for rockfall just as the sun hits the cliffs up by the black pyramid. Probably a good idea to be past the black pyramid by sunrise if you enjoy living. Same thing happened on Ptarmidgan last year with freeclimb sun comes up for 10 minutes and a flurry of rocks fall off. Then it chills out again. Anyway wasted time contemplating climbing the short steep wall of the bergschrund. No rope, no partners, and carrying ski I decided to traverse around and hit the left side and climb around the bergschrund altogether. Summited around 11:30am. Ski down on windblown pockets of powder mixed with ice to the top of Emmons. The top of the emmons didn't seem like it was going to soften so I started skiing and once I got away from the cool breeze I was able to harvest corn all the way down to Schurman plus the inter glacier. i would say the route is still in but not for long due to rockfall. roundtrip took 23 hours. I think next year I would like to do it again in 18hours roundtrip. Also after talking with richard pumpington we have decided that next year first week of june we are gonna do Ptarmidgan in less than 24 hours car to car. It was my best solo ever and was almost as committing as some of the rockclimbs back home in Missouri. Quote
JoshK Posted July 1, 2003 Posted July 1, 2003 Based on your TR and the TRs of others I am beginning to think it's safer to solo liberty ridge. I'd rather trust my own skills than trust being slower while roped through all that rockfall! BTW, you are kidding when yuo say almost as commiting as the rock climbs back in missouri, right? Quote
Tool Posted July 1, 2003 Posted July 1, 2003 boonecountry: Nice job. I'm thinking of a solo attempt myself sometime this weekend, and I'm curious as to your times: You left WRCG at 4:00 p.m., hit Thumb Rock at 1:30 a.m. (you said p.m.), slept until 3:30 a.m. (you said p.m.), then summited at 11:30 - 8 hours later. Then you were back at your car at 3:00 p.m. (23 hours), which means 3.5 hours from summit to car. Are these times pretty accurate or guesstimates? Thanks. Quote
boonecounty Posted July 2, 2003 Author Posted July 2, 2003 Slept at thumbrock from 1:30am to 3:30am not the pm. as for committing climbs in boonecounty check out this link. camm.mu.org/servlet/cwiki?p=Brightlights I won't climb this thing without comprehensive health insurance and disability!!!!!!!!! But I did liberty ridge without it. a brief route description climb up out of cave and clip first bolt, sustained 5.10+ (old school rating) takes you to the 2nd bolt another 15 feet up. 10 feet above that pull the crux with a whipper threatening. Clip the 3rd bolt after finishing the crux. you know have clipped 3 bolts and you are only 35 feet above the belay in the cave. around 100ft of climbing remain with two bolts for protection in vertical 5.8 - 5.9 climbing with no chalk or sign of human passage. The roof up high with a 5.9 move 40 ft above the 3rd bolt is super fun!!!!!! Quote
russ_cunningham Posted July 29, 2003 Posted July 29, 2003 Do you have some sort of fuckin death wish? I did Ranier last year, and I can't figure out why anybody would want to solo that damn thing... Quote
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