slothrop Posted June 30, 2003 Posted June 30, 2003 Climbed it Saturday with eric8. Simulclimbed most of the dirty lower section. The short wide crack was cool and the traverse was sweet. Eric kept dropping my gear in retribution for me not cleaning his pin on Colchuck a while back. I found some of it, but there's a shitty biner up there for you booty hounds. The heat was ridiculous, but we saw a dude lugging snowshoes up the trail. He must be headed for Alaska. Climb it early so you stay in the shade! Photos of Eric on the crack pitch: one two Quote
JoshK Posted June 30, 2003 Posted June 30, 2003 cool. how was the climb all and all? I was considering it since it's so close to home. Quote
slothrop Posted July 1, 2003 Author Posted July 1, 2003 It was definitely fun and worthwhile. For a short day trip so close to home, you get a nice variety of climbing (dirt, slabs, cracks, face moves), exciting exposure out in the middle of the face, and some routefinding on the descent. You sort of forget that you're about a half-mile from I-90. We didn't see anyone else until we were halfway down the trail. Go do it! You can always hit up Exit 38 on the way back to Seattle if a short route on Guye doesn't satisify your craving for choss. I want to check out some of the other routes on that peak. Anyone done Beckey's Chimney or the exit variation from Lunch Ledge? Quote
eric8 Posted July 1, 2003 Posted July 1, 2003 Werd definitly worth it. I will climb it again. I would like to check out the direct variation but the traverse pitch is so much fun you almost don't want to miss it. On the way down as we pass some hiker he made some statement about climbing the bowling alley . But all in all the rock is good on the west face except from the start up to the end of the first pitch in nelsons guide. Quote
minx Posted July 1, 2003 Posted July 1, 2003 Beckey's chimney gets a it will spit rocks at you. pretty easily protected. fun climbing. i haven't done the variation from lunch ledge but i would definitely like to. happy climbing Quote
cs Posted July 2, 2003 Posted July 2, 2003 eric8 said: On the way down as we pass some hiker he made some statement about climbing the bowling alley . But all in all the rock is good on the west face except from the start up to the end of the first pitch in nelsons guide. Is it in Nelsons new edition? Also what gear did you find useful and how long did it take you round trip? Thanks. Quote
slothrop Posted July 2, 2003 Author Posted July 2, 2003 Yeah, it is in the new Selected Climbs. We didn't place much gear per pitch, but did use a wide variety. Big hexes and a 3.5" cam were nice to have on the pitch before the traverse. There's also a good purple TCU placement for the belay in the alcove. Definitely bring long slings. It took us about 6:30 roundtrip, but we weren't moving particularly quickly and got sidetracked a couple times on the descent. Have fun! Quote
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