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tr: sherpa peak, north ridge


JoshK

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climbed this with paco on saturday. really freaking hot out and more mosquitos than I have encountered in a loooong time. really unpleasent. descent off sherpa summit to sherpa glacier coulior is a pain in the ass, but we had no description to follow, so maybe we screwed it up some how. pretty fun climbing all and all, but found things quite hard to follow for the first half of the route. we may have been off-route as we did some pitches that were at least as hard as the 5.8 crux pitches. good climbing, great partner, awesome setting...if only the bugs would have laid off.

 

we were hoping to do ice cliff glacier on sunday but we were tired and lazy and it was *really* hot out. only got down to 60 or so in the basin over night and I heard a couple of good ice falls take place.

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we got back to our "camp" (aka a large rock we bivied on top of) at 1am, which I think was about 2 horus after we saw you guys near the false summit of stuart. the descent wasn't too bad...just loooong. I forgot how long that coulior goes down before getting to the shrund. Near the bottom we had to go about 20 feet at a time to make sure we didn't just walk right into the damn thing.

 

Side note: seeing you guys coming down super-late as well had to be one of the funniest experiences I've ever had in the mountains. It was late and dark and we were sick of walking and we started to get that "why do I climb / yet another mini-epic" feeling then we saw you guys going through the same crap. Great for a laugh, not to mention very uplifting. smile.gif

 

BTW, did you guys also notice the headlamp a few thousand feet below eric and I on the south side of sherpa? That completely confused me as I can't see why in the hell anybody would be coming up that way, esp. at that hour. wazzup.gif

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We froze our asses off getting basically no sleep, and having to heat water ever two hours or so to keep from shivering. I was wondering about that headlamp also. I have no idea what the fuck they were doing. I was thinking that they may have mistaken that for the Cascadian and gone down the wrong thing, and then had to come back up after getting cliffed out.

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