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Posted

Anyone want to do the south chute/finger traverse Sunday, weather permitting? Normal partners bailed, and I've heard you need a belay across the traverse. PM me if interested.

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Posted
rollo said:

Anyone want to do the south chute/finger traverse Sunday, weather permitting? Normal partners bailed, and I've heard you need a belay across the traverse. PM me if interested.

A rope may or may not be necessary depending on your comfort level on class 3 exposed rock. A friend and I climbed Constance years ago using the finger traverse and returning via the terrible traverse never belaying once, and I'm no expert rock climber.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Posted

Wait a week and I'll join you. I had already planned a one day Constance climb on the 22nd. I'm sure there is still snow on the Terrible Traverse at this point. I did a Google search a while back and found some excellent photos of both traverses, if you're wondering what they are like. I don't have the URL, but I found them using "Mount Constance Trip Report". I still haven't been beyond the top of North Chute but I found the photos reassuring. A confident alpine rock climber would probably not need a belay on the finger traverse. The Terrible Traverse would depend on snow conditions, of course.

Posted

I'll be on Rainier next weekend. Thanks for the offer though, Norman. Maybe some other time. Anyway, I'll be somewhere in the Oly's this weekend.

Posted
Norman_Clyde said:

...still haven't been beyond the top of North Chute but I found the photos reassuring. A confident alpine rock climber would probably not need a belay on the finger traverse. The Terrible Traverse would depend on snow conditions, of course.

Yep...after climbing up and over by way of North Chute, and turning toward the summit block, I followed a route that narrowed to an exposed, sloping ledge marked by a pin with a couple runners on it.

 

I had no rope and was solo anyway, but thought "a confident alpine rock climber would probably not need a belay here." Then I backed off.

 

Choosing the alternate crossing-over by way of Terrible Traverse proved successful, but it was very late into a long season and most of the remaining ice could be bypassed on rock. Bivied on top. Returned by way of South Chute. A glorius hike.

 

Heard said:

 

... bring bivy gear, and you will bivy...

... bring rope gear, and you will belay...

 

mC

 

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