How to climb 5.12?

[dberdinka]

I finally found my answer.....

 

http://news.man.ac.uk/1054290245/index_html

[chelle]

Interesting, but spiderman gloves are aid.

[chucK]

I think this gives us newer climbers a different perspective on the thoughts of some of those old trad codgers that are sometimes viewed as negative and unaccepting of change. This gecko tape sounds like it would probably work pretty damn well for climbing. Its introduction to climbing would be completely analogous to the introduction of sticky-rubbered climbing shoes. Climbing shoes are almost universally recognized now as part of the game. Is there any reason to denounce gecko tape as aid other than the fact that it may become available after YOU began climbing?

 

 

[chelle]

Hadn't thought about it that in depth, ChucK. Perhaps it will replace the traditional use of climbing tape by many people when they climb cracks. But I also consider that aid and have only used it twice to cover up some pretty nasty gobees, so I could still jam my hands in the cracks.

[JoshK]

I'm not sure I'd say it is *completely* analagous. Climbing shoes allow climbers to stand on smaller ledges, smear better and use their existing skills to climb more difficult routes. Being able to simply stick yourself to a blank face is a far cry from that.

 

Imagine, however, the possibilites of being able to "tape aid" yourself up a difficult pitch in the alpine instead of bringing an extensive aid rack. Somehow I doubt this is something we'll see in the remotely near future, however.

[catbirdseat]

It remains to be seen whether this tape is subject to "fouling". Unless the surface were absolutely clean, bits of lichen, sand, dirt etc. might eventually cover the surface and its ability to stick would be lost.

[chucK]

So what's to distinguish climbing tape (used for the purpose of greater sticking power) from sticky rubber on shoes? Are the "rules" of climbing like some contrived boulder problem where it's aid if you use advantages connected to your hands but not if you use something on your feet? Think about it. It would be much less advantageous if you had some sticky stuff for your hands but were disallowed from using sticky rubber for your feet.

[chelle]

chucK said:

So what's to distinguish climbing tape (used for the purpose of greater sticking power) from sticky rubber on shoes? Are the "rules" of climbing like some contrived boulder problem where it's aid if you use advantages connected to your hands but not if you use something on your feet? Think about it. It would be much less advantageous if you had some sticky stuff for your hands but were disallowed from using sticky rubber for your feet.

 

Only advantage I can see to only having sticky hands is if you don't use your feet when you climb. I don't really care about the issue ChucK. I was just spraying about it being aid. Maybe it will really turn out to be the next revolution, just like 3M's post-it-note adhesive in the corporate world...

[chucK]

JoshK said:

I'm not sure I'd say it is *completely* analagous. Climbing shoes allow climbers to stand on smaller ledges, smear better and use their existing skills to climb more difficult routes. Being able to simply stick yourself to a blank face is a far cry from that.

 

I disagree. They are merely different points on a continuum. Sticky rubber shoes make certain stances rests, that would not be rests without sticky rubber.

 

They both change the game. Make it easier to get up stuff.

[Dru]

seeing as enough tape to support a climber would cost "thousands and thousands of pounds" and "The main problem so far is it losing its stick rapidly" I doubt we're all gonna be using it anytime soon.