Kyle_Flick Posted May 19, 2003 Posted May 19, 2003 Travis Hammond, Dave Piccarelo and I, due to thin potentially rotten ice conditions of the steep narrow gully accessing the upper third of the route, forged a new route of the upper section that trended up to the N.E. Ridge topping out about 700' below the summit. The weather cooperated with cool conditions. Given the lateness of our attempt (May 18) we were still surprised about the volume of spindrift that befell us especially timed when leading at the cruxes of the numerous pitches. Good stiff challenging steep snow, moderate ice and short sections of mixed climbing with several patches of rotten ice that caused us to traverse and wind our way up different gullys for better conditions. A very wild alpine experience that seemed out of place so near the highway. As mentioned in earlier threads, the descent off the mountain to the northeast is far quicker than to the west over Easy Pass. Quote
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