Gaston_Lagaffe Posted May 15, 2003 Posted May 15, 2003 fern said: obviously if the 'holds' are far apart then having extra reach helps. But I think an advantage to being shorter on slabs is that there is less leverage between your points of contact and your centre of gravity, also smaller fingers and feet can use more intermediate holds to good effect. dunno ... I'm pretty short but I have found many slab cruxes fairly cruisy where my taller friends have struggled a bit. I agree. Can you imagine a size 15 foot on a penny hold on a slab vs a smaller foot? I think the smaller foot can make more use of it. Quote
catbirdseat Posted May 15, 2003 Posted May 15, 2003 I'd say technique is everything in friction climbing. I wouldn't give the edge to taller climbers on slabs. Quote
catturdeat Posted May 15, 2003 Posted May 15, 2003 catbirdseat said: I'd say technique is everything in friction climbing. I wouldn't give the edge to taller climbers on slabs. I'd say them same thing, if I were a fucking idiot. Quote
Fence_Sitter Posted May 15, 2003 Posted May 15, 2003 catturdeat said: catbirdseat said: I'd say technique is everything in friction climbing. I wouldn't give the edge to taller climbers on slabs. I'd say them same thing, if I were a fucking idiot. how do taller climbers have an advantage on slab? bigger feet= more friction? gimme a break shit disturber... Quote
catbirdseat Posted May 15, 2003 Posted May 15, 2003 catturdeat said: catbirdseat said: I'd say technique is everything in friction climbing. I wouldn't give the edge to taller climbers on slabs. I'd say them same thing, if I were a fucking idiot. Then go ahead, because you ARE a fucking idiot. You only exist to yank my chain anyway. Quote
erik Posted May 15, 2003 Posted May 15, 2003 catbirdseat said: catturdeat said: catbirdseat said: I'd say technique is everything in friction climbing. I wouldn't give the edge to taller climbers on slabs. I'd say them same thing, if I were a fucking idiot. Then go ahead, because you ARE a fucking idiot. You only exist to yank my chain anyway. we can fix that.... Quote
catbirdseat Posted May 15, 2003 Posted May 15, 2003 erik said: catbirdseat said: catturdeat said: catbirdseat said: I'd say technique is everything in friction climbing. I wouldn't give the edge to taller climbers on slabs. I'd say them same thing, if I were a fucking idiot. Then go ahead, because you ARE a fucking idiot. You only exist to yank my chain anyway. we can fix that.... Nah, I ain't as thin skinned as that. Let the poor dude have his fun. Quote
chucK Posted May 15, 2003 Posted May 15, 2003 Fence_Sitter said: how do taller climbers have an advantage on slab? bigger feet= more friction? gimme a break shit disturber... Didn't I already clear this up for you guys? The answer is, IF all you are concerned about is one pure-friction move, then taller climbers do not have an advantage, and may conceivably be disadvantaged due to more difficulty in balancing all that stretched out bulk over his/her feet. HOWEVER in the real world there are more often than not holds on the slab. As with any other type of climbing, connecting these holds is the key. If you have any experience in slab climbing you will know that even the tiniest pimple or dish can be extremely helpful to stave off the slide 'n tumble. The less moves over holdless spots you need to make, the better. That is why being tall helps, because taller people often have longer legs which allows them to reach further to the next dimple. One less move to be able to reach one of those well-spaced bolts is also a tremendous advantage of being tall when slab climbing. So please, no more whining you tall people. How's the weather up there anway? Quote
catbirdseat Posted May 15, 2003 Posted May 15, 2003 chucK said:How's the weather up there anway? I don't know, my head is in a cloud. Quote
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