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I climbed the North Face Route (August 1971) today, and it was in fantastic shape. This is the second time I've done this route, and the second time that I've decided it's the best alpine ice climb I've done. I wasn't the only one enjoying it - there were some tracks that looked like they had been left on Friday or Saturday, and I think that Alasdair and Jason climbed it immediately after me.

 

The bottom 10 ft. of the route were gone, so I used a ramp on the right to traverse in about 50 ft. up. This route doesn't have much of a harder crux than Triple Couloirs, but is much more sustained. I'd say it's somewhere around WI3, M3.

 

Also, Triple Couloirs is still in excellent shape, with 3 parties climbing it today. I'd imagine that it will stay in shape for about 3 weeks more, but if you want to climb the North Face Route you should probably do it next weekend or sooner.

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