Mt. Terror: N. Buttress/Face

[Juan]

Who has climbed this face? The route descriptions suggest that the original 1961 line is 3rd and 4th class, with a bit of 5th. Kearney describes a line that may be the 1984 Stoddard line, more on the left side. He says 5.7/5.8; Fred says 5.8+. Obviously, lugging a real rack in there would only be smart if it was needed. We will need the room for whiskey. Can anyone comment on this? Colin? Lowell?

 

Thanks much,

 

John Sharp

[bobinc]

Juan -- what are you suggesting?

[Juan]

Brad and I will be taking the Tour of the Ancients in that direction this summer, we hope. We hope to have as much fun as we had on Fury and Luna last summer.

 

Juan

 

 

[Lowell_Skoog]

I haven't climbed this face yet (but want to). My understanding is that the Cooper route was mis-rated in Beckey's and Nelson's books. I can't recall whether Alan Kearney told me that himself, or somebody who talked to Alan. Based on the little that I know, I'd go prepared for something stiffer than class 4.

[Juan]

Thanks very much Lowell. I had a feeling that would be the case. Jim's book describes it as 3rd class, but refers to mid-fifth elsewhere in the write-up. No mention of a rack. I got Alan's e-mail address today, and will check with him too. Did Jim tell me that you went in one time in late summer and found no way to get onto the rock due to a moat, or am I making that up?

 

Cheers and thanks,

 

John

[Lowell_Skoog]

A few years ago I went with three friends to climb the N buttress. We approached from Goodell Creek, crossed Crescent Ck cirque, and planned to descend from Himmelhorn col to the base of the face. The problem was that it was late August in a dry year. When we got to Himmelhorn col (not trivial due to melt-out) and looked down into McMillan cirque, our stomachs turned because of the melted out crappy gully. One of our party had kicked steps up it with no problems about a month earlier. We bailed after that, with two of us bagging the standard route on Terror as consolation.

[Juan]

What a heartbreak. We plan to do this trip in mid-July, so we hope the gully is passable. As long as we're discussing this, do you recommend the std. Goodell Creek aproach, then the Barrier, or the one in Jim's second book that takes you across Terror Creek? When we climbed the Chopping Block in July 1987, I don't recall the Barrier being a big deal. And I hear that the Goodell Creek approach in general is much more obvious now. What would you recommend?

 

Thanks much,

 

John

[Lowell_Skoog]

Not sure what you mean by "standard Goodell Creek aproach, then the Barrier". If you mean the approach to Terror basin, no, that's not the best way. The best way climbs up the right side of the toe of the Barrier directly from the valley of Terror creek. I don't remember what Jim's book says about it, but Fred's book has a pretty accurate description of it, as I recall.

[Juan]

Sorry to be vague. What I meant was the approach that is typically used to access McMillan Spire and Inspiration Peak vs. the one I think you are describing. The one you used is the one Jim suggests for Terror, and would eliminate climbing the Barrier from Terror Basin. Right?

 

Thanks much,

 

John

[Lowell_Skoog]

Yes

[geordie]

Bringing this to the top:

class 4 or 5.8 ? your vote

worth the trouble? Any other suggestions for crescent creek basin climbs?

 

(I've done the approach to the Chopping Block - not so bad..)

 

g

 

[Marko]

That E. Ridge of the Blob (Rake) was a hoot.