Cobra Posted April 17, 2003 Posted April 17, 2003 I climbed the couloirs yesterday after skiing in the previous day and walked out today. I left a pin after entrance to the 3rd couloir. Someone might like it for belay on the left rocks. Still ok shape. I have climbed it before. It still is a nice route. It took me 3 days with driving. Quote
sverdina Posted April 17, 2003 Posted April 17, 2003 This may have been discussed previously, but how many pitches of belayed climbing are involved in order to access the 2nd couloir...the 3rd? How are the belays? Any recomendations concerning descending from the summit? Quote
JoshK Posted April 17, 2003 Posted April 17, 2003 between 1st (hidden) and second we belayed 3 pitches. 1st was steep snow/neve, 2nd was mixed ice/snow, third was WI. Belay for 1st pitch was a pin and small cam. belay for 2nd pitch was rock gear (mostly cams), belay for 3rd was 2 ice tools and a screw. Only pro I placed on the whole of those 3 pitches was a green alien mid way up the 3rd (WI) pitch. At the time I did you may have been able to get a screw in. Between the 2nd and 3d coliour, we simuled. It depends on how comfortable you are in steep snow and some ice, but if I did it again, I would solo or simul solo it. Every pitch I led, I ended up just pitching out without pro since I didn't feel threatened and it was fairly hard to come by. Quote
erik Posted April 17, 2003 Posted April 17, 2003 WHAT IS SIMUL SOLOLING?? IS THAT WHEN YOU BOTH SOLO AT THE SAME TIME?? WHOULDNT TH AT BE SOLOING?? Quote
sverdina Posted April 17, 2003 Posted April 17, 2003 Thx! That's exactly what I was looking for. Quote
COL._Von_Spanker Posted April 17, 2003 Posted April 17, 2003 erik said: WHAT IS SIMUL SOLOLING?? IS THAT WHEN YOU BOTH SOLO AT THE SAME TIME?? WHOULDNT TH AT BE SOLOING?? NO, it's when you are soloing while you both holding on to the same ice tool. It's a great way for couple to solo together. Quote
JoshK Posted April 17, 2003 Posted April 17, 2003 COL._Von_Spanker said: erik said: WHAT IS SIMUL SOLOLING?? IS THAT WHEN YOU BOTH SOLO AT THE SAME TIME?? WHOULDNT TH AT BE SOLOING?? NO, it's when you are soloing while you both holding on to the same ice tool. It's a great way for couple to solo together. Yeah, it didn't make sense. I was with another person so I meant we would just solo at the same time. simul-solo = solo with company. Quote
Szyjakowski Posted April 18, 2003 Posted April 18, 2003 JoshK said: COL._Von_Spanker said: erik said: WHAT IS SIMUL SOLOLING?? IS THAT WHEN YOU BOTH SOLO AT THE SAME TIME?? WHOULDNT TH AT BE SOLOING?? NO, it's when you are soloing while you both holding on to the same ice tool. It's a great way for couple to solo together. Yeah, it didn't make sense. I was with another person so I meant we would just solo at the same time. simul-solo = solo with company. oh, so you mean solo above another soloist...thats kinda craaazy now isn't it?!??! Quote
JoshK Posted April 18, 2003 Posted April 18, 2003 It's downright suicidal. I'm living on the edge or sumpin' Quote
klenke Posted April 18, 2003 Posted April 18, 2003 Yeah, you're pretty safe just posting below another postist on CascadeClimbers Peak. Quote
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