Dru Posted March 30, 2003 Posted March 30, 2003 Aid soloing. Hooks, crack n ups, RPs, bolt. Bomber cam flake. Roof. Moss, dirt. Ushba. Wet slimy. Fell twice cleaning. 5.9. Peregrine nesting nearby. Saw Mom kill starlings, feed to chicks. Cool. Also a couple bald eagles around. Also 10, 000+ mosquitoes. Welcome, spring. Rain started as I finished. First time back on rock since fall. Scary at first. Good. Quote
minx Posted March 30, 2003 Posted March 30, 2003 good that it went well! hard to get back after a scary fall! Quote
ScottP Posted March 30, 2003 Posted March 30, 2003 It does feel good to clear some of the cobwebs. Quote
slothrop Posted March 30, 2003 Posted March 30, 2003 Yahoo! Nice job, dru. I just got back from a week at Smith, where several hard (for me) trad leads have banished my timidity. I sprained my ankle in lead fall in January, but now I'm itchin' to head out to Index for more. Quote
Dru Posted March 30, 2003 Author Posted March 30, 2003 i should clarify this was an established 5.9 route at Harrison Bluffs that i had already climbed in 96 when it was freshly cleaned... i think its harder to aid than to free due to the thin face climbing up a seam at the bottom below the bolt, however, given the wet & mossy nature, aid was good. harrison bluffs are like the Bulletheads, if the bulletheads rose out of a mosquito ridden, skunk cabbage swamp. it was kinda popular in the mid 90s but i honestly think no one has really climbed there for about 2 years. whole crag is mossing over amazingly fast. lots of potential new routes but you have to ask yourself if the effort required to clean just to have it grow over is worth it. good place to go aid soloing though. Quote
plexus Posted March 31, 2003 Posted March 31, 2003 Nice job, I like them climbs dirty and mossy. I expect the lactic acid fairy to visit me tomorrow. We went up to Erie, got some leads in at Snag Buttress, hiked out as the rain started, great timing Wimped out on leading a very exposed climb, but it's early, I can still tuck my tail Used a friend's rack, had me searching for pieces since the pieces weren't where I keep them (now where's that #7 stopper? #1 Camalot?! I don't want the #1 Camalot!) Fell about five feet as my directional piece popped while lowering. Unconsciously screamed as I thought the chains snapped (I have put on some weight lately) Good time considering it's been a while. Cheers to everyone that got out this weekend!! Quote
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