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Posted

I've only been up there during the summer and yes its a fun place to mess around on... I don't know what you would rate any of the routes up there but its a really fun day trip...

Posted

The main route on Thielsen is a hike with a 30 ft. 5.0 or so scramble at the end. Some people solo it, but then some people go all out and bring 11 mm ropes and pro. 4 hours car-to-car if you're fast. (The "trifecta" of southern Oregon is Thielsen, nearby Mt. Bailey and Mt. McLoughlin in a day...3 decent slogs, if you're into that...)

 

The only other route I've ever seen listed anywhere is indeed the McLoughlin memorial, listed in Oregon High. I've heard it can be scary and loose, and has at least one totally unprotected pitch. That said, I'd like to get on it this summer...

Posted

I think the best route on it is the West ridge , it has 2 good pitches with tremendous exposure. Id say it is 5.6 or so and has an ancient fixed pin on it. The mcG Memorial is a serious route. It is protectable but I didnt do the usual finish.

Posted

My experience w/ it was similar to Central Oregon Cascades, chossy scree slog approach, but the rock is solid on the final summit pinnacle. Fun scrambling. I worked my back down roundabout, there's some fun "bouldering" more or less on some crazy looking little volcanic spires, more nubbins than you can shake a stick at, and none of them broke off on me.

Posted

Be careful of lightning! Not something you typically have to worry about in the PacNW EXCEPT HERE! Supposedly quite common and not sure why. Maybe some of you meteorlogical buffs can explain it. Reminds me of afternoon thunderstorms rolling in in the Tetons. They don't last long, but damn is there a lot of electricity flying through the air!

Posted

dry warm air meets cool damp air... to cause tunder storm... the electrical shots are influenced by the magnetic charges in the volcanic rock which is more exposed here than other areas... the tetons its even wores, because the granite cares a stronger magnetic charge than our pacific basalt...

 

storm.gif

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