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Adams' various routes


MdwestMac

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I'm part of a party of 6 coming out to Adams in mid April with hopes on climbing either the Southwest Chute, The Avalanche glacier, or the Mazama glacier. I'm curious if anyone knows about 1) how close we could drive the mountain in a rental car 2) the differences between these routes... Cheers!

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In mid April you will more that likely still be putting in several miles on the road before Cold Springs. In an average snow year it is usual early to mid June until you can drive to the end of the road. As far as a rental car, go with a 4x4, get the insurance and have at it. You will need to stop at the Trout Lake RS to register and they will be able to give you fairly recent road info.

In mid-April all three route that you name will be pretty much straight forward snow routes with no real objective dangers. Of these route the Mazama is the most aesthetic. Traversing far enough to the east will give you some pretty impressive views of Battlement Ridge and the Klickitat Glacier.

Given that you are traveling out here to do this and that you are coming pretty early in the "normal season" I would come with a back up plan. Mid-April can still bring a shit load of snow to the Cascades.

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wdietsch is probably right about how you probably won't be able to drive very close to the mountain, but about a month ago I believe the road to the south side was driveable to pretty close to the trailhead at Morrison Creek, which is really not all that far below the higher Cold Springs trailhead that usually doesn't open until June or July. I'm jut guessing, but my bet is you will be able to get much closer to the mountain on the main south approach than you will on the road to Bird Creek Meadows, for the Mazama Glacier.

 

I've never been up the Mazama, but I have been up the Avalanche and I've skied the SW Chutes several times. I would not recommnd the SW Chutes as a climbing route unless you are looking for workout on a relentless climb of 3500 feet up one single slope. Either the Mazama or the Avalanche Glacier route would have more variety of terrain and things to look at.

 

Wdietsch is also probably right that the crevasse issues will be minimal in April, but I wouldn't assume there will be little or no objective hazard. On any of these routes, you could encouter an avalanche hazard and there is at least some possibility of encountering rockfall (particularly during a warming spell) or steep icy slopes where you dare not stumble.

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Since then it has snowed. The last update on the USFS web site shows Pineside snowpark (elev = 2700) to have 12" snow. Smith Butte (elev = 3900) to have 40". This was as of March 7. I haven't been to these, but I went out yesterday with nordic skiis to some snowparks west of Adams and the snow was about the same as the last posted date.

 

I would assume you will be skiing in from about 3500 in mid April. It only takes one 3' x 30' drift to stop your rental car and in my experience there is always one a mile or so before where you could have driven otherwise madgo_ron.gif.

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