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Posted (edited)

I don't think anyone ever checks mountain project in north bend for new routes. But there are a lot of new routes in north bend on mountain project: https://www.mountainproject.com/whats-new?locationId=108471684 . I probably account for 50 of them, but a lot of other people have been developing as well. I plan to add a lot more still, but there are also youtube videos of many to give you a sense before you waste the time to hike to them: 

Above is a video of one of my better climbs, but it got too wet before I could get a video of my best climb. If a route appears to have perma draws in a video, it is probably at least 20 degrees overhanging or impossible/dangerous to clean. Most videos are taken with a hand held cam. A drone is occasionally used, but we are the only ones at the cliff when that happens.  

Edited by Trevor Puppy Lover
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Posted

this question is not a criticism but honestly just curious.  Why did you choose chain for the perma draws over the commercially available cable type permadraws?  is there something about the standard permadraws?  too short or too costly? thanks for making routes out there.

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Posted (edited)

I think it is kinda cliff dependent. There are a lot of reasons. Reason 1, cable draws are generally galvanized, if you go to world wall you can see how they rust pretty bad, with chain we can choose plated, painted, galvanized or stainless. Reason 2, the cable draws were pretty much unavailable last year, and if they were they were, it was $20 a piece. Reason3, the cable draws also generally come with a plated quick link as well so you have to spend another $5.00 to replace it with stainless. Reason 4, I think chain is easier to grab. Reason 5, chain can be custom length. Reason 6, the weight of the metal doesn’t result in as many spinners as the cable draws.

At world wall the cable draws make sense since world wall isn’t actually that steep and the rock is extremely brittle. If someone were to permadraw canopy or the woods I would prefer cable. At crag of the 20s I think the permas would have to be specific to each route. I think when we did the actual cave it is mostly cable but it probably should have been stainless chain.

We still need to buy more permadraws for helms but my wife isn’t happy that I bought 400 bolts last year lol.

Edited by Trevor Puppy Lover

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