Bugaboos in September?

[five o’clock shadow]

A buddy and I are considering a late-September trip to the Bugaboos. Neither of us has been before. We had hoped to do the Kain Route but understand the Bugaboo-Snowpatch Col is out for the season. We're now wondering what a late-season crossing of the Bugaboo Glacier to reach the West Ridge of Pigeon Spire might look like. We assume bare ice and plenty of crevasses, but wonder if there's much of a chance of finding a route through them...assuming we get lucky and find a good weather window. I've been unable to find any September trip reports, which seems to speak volumes. Have any of you been up there this late in the season in a bad snow year? The Kain Hut is still open but wondering if we'd have much to do if we couldn't cross the glacier. 

Any tips/recommendations? Is it silly to even consider?

[JasonG]

Maybe call a guide service in Revelstoke or Golden and see if they would be kind with beta on the conditions of the glacier?

[genepires]

this FB group has some good info graphics on the non bug-patch col approach.  maybe ask on that page?  https://www.facebook.com/bugaboofriends

 

the better question is the weather gonna cooperate though.  There crazy canucks ice climb in there relative lowlands in early november.  i imagine things start to get snowy up in the bugs early october.

 

But if the weather or conditions shut you down, it is still amazing to just be there.

 

Edited September 20, 2023 by genepires

[genepires]

just got snow in the mazama foothills.  snow in bugs cant be far behind.