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Shuksan Climb in June


bvm6302

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I'm looking to climb Shuksan this weekend with my brother. I've read that the summit pyramid is usually covered in snow until late June/early July. This can make that portion of the climb more sketchy due to less handholds and bolts for repelling. We have experience on Rainier, Adams, and Baker, but all of those being pretty standard routes.

Can anyone confirm current conditions for this section of the climb? Are we over our heads to climb that section this early in the season?

Thanks!

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There are no bolts, just some fixed rappel anchors using webbing etc.

I saw some reports from last few weeks where the summit gully was partially snow-covered making for more complicated descent. I'm not sure if that's still the case after all this warm weather.

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If you have even nominal rock experience, you may want to consider the SE Ridge route of the pyramid. Even if the gulley is snow-free, this is 5.fun! A little exposure but the views are outstanding en route. Bring a handful of long slings, a couple chocks/cams and you're set. You can then rap the gulley. I've done both and now prefer the ridge. Just a suggestion.

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