Objectives in late May

[Syasinski]

Hey all!  Two of us are planning a trip to the North Cascades from Canmore, Ab area May 15-30. We are keen to climb some alpine routes (glacier travel, snow, ice, rock, etc.) and curious what objectives would be realistic goals for late May of this year (2023) given the snowpack.  Some examples of areas we are considering include Washington Pass (early winter spires, liberty bell) or Stephen Mather WA (eldorado, forbidden) and of course the Stuart range.  Happy to exchange seasonal beta for the Rockies! Thank you for any input.

[JasonG]

It is currently still winter up high so hard to say what is going to happen in the next few weeks...spring has been slow to arrive this year. 

But I would expect to use skis to approach for whatever you are thinking!

[DPS]

On 4/13/2023 at 10:23 AM, Syasinski said:

Hey all!  Two of us are planning a trip to the North Cascades from Canmore, Ab area May 15-30. We are keen to climb some alpine routes (glacier travel, snow, ice, rock, etc.) and curious what objectives would be realistic goals for late May of this year (2023) given the snowpack.  Some examples of areas we are considering include Washington Pass (early winter spires, liberty bell) or Stephen Mather WA (eldorado, forbidden) and of course the Stuart range.  Happy to exchange seasonal beta for the Rockies! Thank you for any input.

Given the amount of snow and your timeframe, I suggest snow/ice climbs. These are all conditions dependent, all are avalanche prone. The Washington Pass routes are typically best done as soon after the pass opens as possible. Some ideas:

Washington Pass:

- Early Winters Couloir (Couloir between east faces of North and South Early Winters Couloir

- West Face of Silver Star Peak

- East Face Couloir of Cuthroat

- Southwest Gulley of South Early Winters Couloir

- North Face of Greybeard

Stuart Range:

- North Buttress Couloir on Colchuck

- NE Couloir on Argonaut

- Stuart Glacier Couloir on Mt Stuart

- West Face Couloir on Mt. Stuart

- NE Couloir to East Ridge of Sherpa

Cascade Pass:

- NW Ice Couloir on Eldorado

- Cascade-Johannesberg Couloir to East Face of Johannesberg Peak

- West Face of Sahale Peak

- North Face of Mt Buckner

 

[Syasinski]

Unreal, thanks a ton.  Our dates have shifted to May 12-26.  Bringing skis, tools, avy gear and AWD. Welcoming more local beta re: weather as we get closer!