Jump to content
  • Announcements

    • olyclimber

      WELCOME TO THE CASCADECLIMBERS.COM FORUMS   02/03/18

      We have upgraded to new forum software as of late last year, and it makes everything here so much better!  It is now much easier to do pretty much anything, including write Trip Reports, sell gear, schedule climbing related events, and more. There is a new reputation system that allows for positive contributors to be recognized,  it is possible to tag content with identifiers, drag and drop in images, and it is much easier to embed multimedia content from Youtube, Vimeo, and more.  In all, the site is much more user friendly, bug free, and feature rich!   Whether you're a new user or a grizzled cascadeclimbers.com veteran, we think you'll love the new forums. Enjoy!
Sign in to follow this  
kmfoerster

[TR] Mclellan Peak - NE Couloir 05/02/2021

Recommended Posts

Trip: Mclellan Peak - NE Couloir

Trip Date: 05/02/2021

Trip Report:

7ED05191-C592-4EDC-B6E7-332A2A84E5EF.thumb.jpeg.ad4557a3705269728974b4b4e595bb02.jpeg

 

My friend Matt and I climbed the NE Couloir of Mclellan earlier this month. I've been intrigued by it since seeing an old Jens Holsten blog post a couple years ago and not being able to find anything else about it otherwise. Theres a brief mention of a route on Mclellan in the WA ice guidebook. I waffled about writing this up because I think the Stuart Range doesn't have a lot of options for solitude. I'm sure people will still flock to the usual spring classics. I settled on doing a more lazy, bare bones style trip report on this to shed some light. Social media is your best friend for seeing conditions of popular faces in the range. The route is fairly short. Similar in length and difficulty to the NW Couloir of Eldorado. Its likely to be easier early season (duh), but it seems likely to have large cornices at the snowfield/ridge at the top out. Theres two exit options, the left (hidden, except maybe from the northwest) being shorter and slightly easier. This gives a bit of contingency with route and cornice conditions. In the conditions we had I'd say it was WI3. 

 

First two pitches, taken later in the morning on the decent back to camp:

EFB5B8E1-996E-44EF-9236-F1457EB07E70.thumb.jpeg.9b3ac5a2345f1cc08bf9303a3ac14d84.jpeg

 

Matt coming up firm snow after the first ice pitch:

C3402AA1-086E-4C75-A701-38D07BEC90C3.jpeg.345af11452b5ca7f8d46f2029cf69d8e.jpeg

 

Second pitch:

284FCA99-26C7-49C4-8854-BC570ED4CDA1.jpeg.7b84400f1e4fa95dc60431a33b88a9fc.jpeg

 

 

IMG_2552.thumb.jpeg.602b95be4c54b0a83e4487c87f5d51ea.jpeg

IMG_2553.thumb.jpeg.479ab3cd2cb79314079e508c70f53089.jpeg

 

 

 

Early April 2017. The first ice pitch is completely buried:

IMG_1171.thumb.jpeg.0a08dd74c701fb9938c645b011cb9ea9.jpeg

 

Gear Notes:
Pins, screws, rock pro to 1". Emphasis on small gear. Pickets if you'd like, we didn't take any.

Approach Notes:
Snow Lakes. Leave the trail at the western-most footbridge above Upper Snow Lake. Decend via the standard route.
  • Like 1
  • Rawk on! 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Nice!  Just when I thought I had seen all the non-death defying spring routes in there. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Sign in to follow this  

×