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Olympus “Eastern Ledge Route” info request

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So the word is that the normal rock route finish on Olympus (which I have climbed) is blocked by a 15’ wide, 40’ deep bergschrund as of a couple weeks ago already. ONP website says “Most parties are attempting Eastern Ledge Route to summit”, but I can’t find any good info on what this entails. 

Does anybody out there have any beta on this, or has anybody climbed it? What’s the descent like? Etc. I hope to head up there in a week...



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Hi Timmy,

  I was up there a week ago and this is correct.  Basically instead of that little steep snow pitch you can start up the rock right from the Five Fingers-West Peak saddle.  Either go directly over Five Fingers or drop down a bit into a loose screen gully to get there  You just start climbing and follow your nose kind of up and climbers left, wrapping around and up on ledges.  I don't think it's any harder than the normal finish but it is longer and dirtier.  You can descend back to the notch with a couple of 30m raps from existing anchors. Pic shows a climber heading up and left.


There ya go, and this can serve as a teaser for my upcoming trip report including our traverse from the Valhallas and my unfortunate extraction via helicopter after a fall on the way to Mt. Tom.  Have fun and be safe up there!

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2 hours ago, OlympicMtnBoy said:

my unfortunate extraction via helicopter

:shock:  Oh no!  Glad you are OK and have lived to tell the tale.

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Wow thanks, super helpful! And glad you’re ok.

Speaking of accidents, I have a friend in Vermont (who used to be a climbing partner of mine when he lived in Washington), and he called me earlier this week to say one of his Vermont friends was hiking the Bailey Range last week, and her dad slipped and fell to his death on the route. Have you heard news on this? I can’t find anything about it online.

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