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vsigler

Easton Glacier advice

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I am heading out to Washington from Ohio to climb Mount Baker in a few weeks. I have climbed the Coleman-Deming route several times, so its time for a change. I am bringing a few first-timers, so have decided to climb the Easton Glacier route. Typical trip: day 1 to camp on the Railroad Grade, day 2 to summit, and descend on day 3. I don't necessarily need a description of the route, but am soliciting any advice about tricky sections, route finding issues, or nuances of the route that might be important to know. I am assuming that by mid-July, a trench to the top will be established, but any information from your experiences on the route would be helpful. Thanks.

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Easton Glacier is as straight forward as it gets. I don't remember any tricky spots or route finding problems, however, there are some large crevasses. We did it the first week in May on skis and even in early season there were some large crevasses open, which were a bit creepy to ski around. Three days would be very casual, we did it C2C in an easy day.

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Should be fine. A few years ago when I last did it, there were crevasses to weave around in a few spots, but shouldn't be difficult. The Roman wall has some crevasses mid-slope that can be intimidating by July. You should be able to weave around them or, barring that, traverse westward and climb on the section of the headwall above the Deming. Bring & use a rope, of course, and you'll be fine. Have fun!

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Climbed it last July and feel it is has a bit less hazard than CD route as far as that goes. Route finding shouldn't be an issue. If bringing first timers for sure spend some time in camp with some ice axe/rope work etc. cause the crevasses will make their eyes pop. You walk right next to the edge of the crater near the top so take a few minutes and climb down in.

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You should know that the later in the year you go, the more difficult and circuitous the route is. I've tried it twice in early September, and failed to summit both times because of the long and winding route (and insufficiently conditioned partners.) That said, I think it's a far prettier and more interesting route than Coleman; Morovitz Meadows is gorgeous, and it's pretty cool to go up and have a look into the crater. It's supposed to be the dog route, but I think it's right up there with Liberty Ridge as one of the most aesthetic  climbs I've done.  

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I am looking forward to it. I’ve done the Coleman-Deming multiple times, so a change of pace will be nice. I have read that in the event of passage issues, some parties opt to traverse low, to the Squak Glacier, and then ascend it. Does anyone know any details about the elevation where the traverse takes place?

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The Easton usually is in better shape than the Squak late season. As of now, they are both passable. There is a highway-style boot trench up the Easton

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