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Posted

I have no doubt that hard mixed climbing can be technically harder in a gymnastic sense than hard ice. The protection factor is separate. However, in the Golden Piton awards, I feel that they should give separate awards for mixed and pure ice (they don't, do they?). The two are really two different sports.

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Posted
Just when I was about to abandon hope of climbing posts on the site we are finally talking about climbing.

 

What I want to know is how mixed climbing, where you can clip bolts, is so much more "extreme" and difficult than sketchy hard ice where the pro is marginal or psychological.

 

mental vs. physical difficulty. the more in shape you are, the easier it is to get your head in control, on sketchy stuff. but even if you are a zen master like guy lacelle, if you are not strong enough to chuck a 6 foot horizontal dyno off an ice tool, you wont be doin musashi.

 

i also like how on wills gravsports website on the topo for howse of cards, he adopts and one-ups the Backes/House topo style for M16 by noting "NO BOLTS NO AID" probably the first time, such a big route was climbed on a rockies face not using any aid!

Posted

This is RURP:

 

Awards for climbing are as LAME and STUPID as it gets. Maybe it is another pathetic import from the Old Country.

Golden Piton........"woo-hoo" as they say.

 

RURP has spoken.

Posted

You win a golden piton and use it!

 

You win a golden piton and can't go to the awards ceremony because the plane fare costs too much.

 

You win a golden piton, scrape the gold off, and sell the gold for extra gas $$.

 

Hmm, any others?

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