Goode Glacier Conditions?

[kuhar]

Anyone been up the NE buttress recently who can comment on the condition of the glacier? Mostly interested in the moat situation to get onto the ridge.

[AOC]

Spoke to a NPS climbing ranger 2 weeks ago in Sedro Wooley who climbed the route in late July.  She said they had to rappel into the moat to access the ridge.  

[keenwesh]

A year ago, almost to the day, I was able to get across on some snow blocks that had fallen and closed the gap. No rope or ax required. If you’re bringing both of those things you’ll be able to figure out a way across. It’s not that massive. 

[tobias tillemans]

A few years ago in August we were able to access the ridge by detouring around the moat to the right.  I put a trip report up for that.

Edited August 30, 2018 by tobias tillemans

[aaasen]

Climbed the NE Buttress on Friday 8/31. We took a fairly direct line up the Goode Glacier that involved a short steep step and some cowboy ridge-riding, but it looks like there are easier options to the east. We were able to gain the NE Buttress on the east side via a precarious snow bridge that isn't long for this world. Crossing the moat looks like it will be quite involved once the bridge goes.

[kuhar]

So if you don't go you won't know, right? We ultimately took our climbing gear for a long, but pretty, walk. We didn't have the chance to even evaluate the moat because getting onto the glacier to begin with looked impossible with our gear (boots, single ice axes, crampons, 1 picket, light climbing rig) with serious-looking crevasse hazard following. To be clear, about 10-15ft of 80 degree glacier snow/ice (see second photo). We followed the approach descriptions from available Beckey, Kearney, and Abegg and even found cairns marking the way. If anyone else has some suggestions or, yes, even thoughtful criticism then I'm all ears. However, this route seems out (at least for our comfort level) for the remainder for the season. We were up there with one other group who had heard in advance that two other parties in the week prior had also been turned around. She's a beaut though :-)

Photo 1 looking at presumed glacier access point (line of intent marked in red):

Photo 2 taken from toe of glacier at end of previous red line (we did not stay here long b/c safety):

Edited September 3, 2018 by kuhar
(at least for our comfort level)

[kuhar]

17 hours ago, aaasen said:

Climbed the NE Buttress on Friday 8/31. We took a fairly direct line up the Goode Glacier that involved a short steep step and some cowboy ridge-riding, but it looks like there are easier options to the east. We were able to gain the NE Buttress on the east side via a precarious snow bridge that isn't long for this world. Crossing the moat looks like it will be quite involved once the bridge goes.

Aw man! Seems like timing just didn't work out to hear back before we left and like you were feeling more courageous than we were as I retrace the line in your photo. Thanks for responding nonetheless!

[aaasen]

2 hours ago, kuhar said:

So if you don't go you won't know, right? We ultimately took our climbing gear for a long, but pretty, walk. We didn't have the chance to even evaluate the moat because getting onto the glacier to begin with looked impossible with our gear (boots, single ice axes, crampons, 1 picket, light climbing rig) with serious-looking crevasse hazard following. To be clear, about 10-15ft of 80 degree glacier snow/ice (see second photo). We followed the approach descriptions from available Beckey, Kearney, and Abegg and even found cairns marking the way. If anyone else has some suggestions or, yes, even thoughtful criticism then I'm all ears. However, this route seems out (at least for our comfort level) for the remainder for the season. We were up there with one other group who had heard in advance that two other parties in the week prior had also been turned around. She's a beaut though :-)

Photo 1 looking at presumed glacier access point (line of intent marked in red):

Photo 2 taken from toe of glacier at end of previous red line (we did not stay here long b/c safety):

We climbed the line in your photos. I led the step using my axe and my partner's then passed them back down to him. We didn't have any pickets or ice screws so he followed without a belay. We found a fairly easy line through the glacier from the top of the step.

From above it looked like it might be possible to jump the crevasse on the right side of your second photo and wrap around to the top of the step, although there might be an impassable crevasse that I didn't see!

I wouldn't recommend the route at this point in the season. This hot and dry summer has not been kind to the Goode Glacier. Even if you can get onto the glacier, the bridge over the moat will be gone any day now.