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Posted

2 Friends and I are planning on climbing  gorillas direct  .10d Im curious if anyone has climbed this route and if there are any juicy bits of beta we should know about? Are the Belays bolted? Havent seen too much information or TR's for the route. Lastly, whats the best approach for getting to the west face? Id rather not take ingalls creek approach from the east all the way over, I'm sure theres another way coming from the west? Can I take the lake Ingalls trail to longs pass, and possibly cut trail from longs to the west face? Would it be easier to take the Ingalls lake trail to stuart pass and traverse over to the west face? Ultimately Im trying to eliminate bushwhacking. Thanks in advance,

Paul

Posted
52 minutes ago, Rad said:

We approached this route via Stuart Lake and Horseshoe Lake

So, when you come in this way, how did you descend?  Rap the route?  I guess I assumed he had Blake's book already!

Posted
9 hours ago, JasonG said:

So, when you come in this way, how did you descend?  Rap the route?  I guess I assumed he had Blake's book already!

Great question. In our case, we got off route after about 5 or 6 pitches and ended up rapping the route through the night. That's not the desired finish or descent!!

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Posted
14 hours ago, Rad said:

we got off route after about 5 or 6 pitches and ended up rapping the route through the night

Yowza.  That sounds like quite the night.  I will have to go back into the database and see if you wrote the adventure up!

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