Advice for west coast climbing trip

[markusallgaier]

Hey everyone,

 

Following a work trip to San Jose in May I have a job interview in Eugene, OR. I will probably drive up there, and then back down to finish the trip in the Tahoe area.

 

I was hoping to find some advice on places to go bouldering on my way somewhere in Oregon, and maybe, if anyone would like to take me along, some climbing.

 

I'm a 27 year old German, climbing for 2 years. I do bouldering and trad climbing, I've lead 5.10 single pitch routes (on limestone, so I've never had to place a cam and could so far make due with stoppers and slings).

 

Any help planning this road trip would be very much appreciated!

Cheers,

Markus

[billcoe]

Sounds like grouping your climbing at both Tahoe and Eugene might be best. I'm not anywhere close to Eugene Marcus, but they have some of the best little (I mean very little) columns right in town at Skinner Butte. When I lived there it seemed common to just show up by yourself and climb with someone else. Very easy to set up topropes if you don't want to lead, and a super pump and some great climbing can had in short order.

 

Pray for sunshine or at least no rain though:-) HAVE FUN ON YOUR TRIP!!!

 

More info: http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showflat/Number/812311/Searchpage/1/Main/60556/Words/%22skinner+butte%22/Search/true/Re_columns_in_eugene#Post812311

[JayB]

Markus:

 

Seems like Smith Rock outside of Bend would be a natural place to target for sport climbing.

 

There's a forum here for meeting up with potential partners along your route:

 

http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/forums/12/1/Climbing_Partners

[KirkW]

Everyone knows the best climbing in Oregon is at Beacon Rock.

 

When are you planning your trip? There's lots of good stuff in the woods but much of it would require skies or a snow machine to reach right now. If you're rolling solo a trip to Smith would be your best bet this time of year. The latest Smith guide has an extensive bouldering section and if you get bored with that there isn't an easier place in the state to find other people to climb with.