jja
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friday afternoon at index
saturday at pearly gates
sunday did outer space, this was my first time on snow creek wall, don't know what took me so long to do this. what a
route
whirlwind, what happened man?? did a little rain in the night scare you off 
Fuck, the weather was ok on snow creek wall on sunday!?!?
everone predicted like 50% chance showers. Fuckin weather report was all over the man. 1st 0% sat 30% sun, then 40%sat 10%sun (got my shit packed up then), then 20%sat(too late) and 50%sun. WTF??? I've gone when it forecast 30% and it rained like a motherfucker all day long.
grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr.
still, with a forecast like that and gas prices like they are, I stand behind my decision, but I am fucking pissed that it was ok! you guys suuuuuuuuuuuuuck
you need to stop believing those stupid ass weather reports mike, it's always sunny in der leavenworth 
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the weather was great in leavenworth this weekend, a little rain friday night, but no biggie. to everyone that stayed home and sulked
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friday afternoon at index
saturday at pearly gates
sunday did outer space, this was my first time on snow creek wall, don't know what took me so long to do this. what a
route whirlwind, what happened man?? did a little rain in the night scare you off -
The tooth is cool, it's easy to get to, easy to climb in any weather and best of all there is no other climb in the cascade's that is more spray - worthy !! I think I've only done it once this year, but maybe 5 or 6 times overall. This is a gaper tr of a solo climb on my birthday a couple of years ago.
This photo is from earlier this year during one of those weekends that everyone stays home because the weather is so crap. (by the way in early winter the direct climb up to pinapple pass is super fun, with snow, ice, rock moves, and a cornice).
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I'm fairly certain I remember taking that piece off the rack before doing spagetti sauce at icicle buttress. I put it on your pack along with some other gear I removed, so I think the spagetti sauce area would be the best chance of recovery.
It really sucks to lose stuff - sorry if it was my fault.
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Brass Balls is an awsome pitch, followed TimL on it on Saturday. <Note to self: it really sucks falling on a roof pitch while following, must get better>
Sunday was up at careno crag and then some roadside fun at icicle buttress and classic crack. Sunday night a mini pc at gustavs with MisterE, TimL, Skyclimb, Michael, Mike Layton, and Distel (after he broke free from the older women hitting on him all night
).Word to the board - don't fool around with MisterE and the check, the dude will throw down the smack down collecting up from dirt bag climbers (I'm pretty sure I got hosed on the bill
)Monday brought the monster rack of draws up to condor. Great weekend, good weather, good times
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Great job guys, way to go for it in so-so weather. This one is on the tick list for sure.
And who knew - from your photo it looks like Greg and Trask are one in the same !!
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All I've got to say is, Please more Al Gore !!
Republicans Love It When Gore Gets Mad
The more screaming, the better.
For the record, Republican officials are denouncing the speech that former vice president Al Gore gave yesterday condemning the Bush administration's handling of the war in Iraq and the larger war on terror. But privately, GOP strategists say they are "delighted" that Gore, whose speeches include rhetorical extremes and are delivered with vein-popping fury, has apparently taken a high-profile role as a surrogate for the Kerry campaign. Such performances, GOP insiders believe, will eventually alienate all but the most dedicated Democratic base voters.
Read the whole piece here
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The 9th circuit is the most reversed bench in the country, by something like a 2 to 1 ratio to it's nearest competitor.
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It's good enough for me. I think the saving grace this weekend is that the weather systems are more typical this time compared to last weekend - meaning the weather is from west to east - rather than the screwed up east side disturbances.
LEAVENWORTH...METHOW...WINTHROP
NATIONAL WEATHER SERVICE SPOKANE WA
400 AM PDT WED MAY 26 2004
.SYNOPSIS....SYNOPSIS...UNSETTLED WEATHER WILL REMAIN OVER THE AREA TODAY AND CONTINUE THROUGH MOST OF THE REMAINDER OF THE WORK WEEK... AS A SERIES OF COLD FRONTS MOVES FROM WEST TO EAST OFF THE PACIFIC OCEAN AND INTO THE INLAND NORTHWEST.
FRIDAY NIGHT...MOSTLY CLOUDY WITH A 30 PERCENT CHANCE OF RAIN AND MOUNTAIN SNOW SHOWERS. LOWS NEAR 40.
SATURDAY...PARTLY CLOUDY... HIGHS IN THE 60S
SATURDAY NIGHT AND SUNDAY...PARTLY CLOUDY WITH A 30 PERCENT CHANCE OF RAIN SHOWERS. LOWS IN THE LOWER 40S. HIGHS IN THE MID TO UPPER 60S.
SUNDAY NIGHT...MOSTLY CLOUDY WITH A 20 PERCENT CHANCE OF RAIN SHOWERS. LOWS IN THE LOWER 40S.
MEMORIAL DAY AND MONDAY NIGHT...PARTLY CLOUDY WITH A 30 PERCENT CHANCE OF RAIN SHOWERS. HIGHS IN THE MID TO UPPER 60S. LOWS IN THE LOWER 40S.
TUESDAY...MOSTLY CLOUDY WITH A 30 PERCENT CHANCE OF RAIN SHOWERS HIGHS IN THE MID 60S TO LOWER 70S.
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free routes on El Cap or wherever that are all free climbing are so 90's. the new rage in freeing big wall routes is incorporating dry tooling like this new Grade VI 5.13- D10+ in the black canyon
Nelson decided to try dry tooling, with rock shoes on his feet and leashless ice tools in his hands. He had modified one tool for the crux by bolting a Pecker micro-piton to the pick. Using these tools, Nelson, who has redpointed 5.13+ and M12, was able to “free climb” the pitch on his fourth attempt.
.. I doubt this is going to catch on
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yeah, but he only lost one to cancer, so they had to superglue on a little vortex generator to compensate for the asymetric drag.
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when I was stationed in germany me and a bunch of my genius buddies rapped out of a fourth floor window in our barracks with the rope tied to a door handle
we were so shocked the cq didn't catch us we did it again aussie style. ahh, young and stupid
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It's called artistic license. You know good prose just doesn't write itself.
by the by, I'm gonna be at index tomorrow afternoon. After I get done with my project (is it ok to call a 5.9 a project?) you'd be more than welcome to ropegun me around the lower wall.
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I was serious about going back and dry tooling the routes on the Drip Wall.
We thought it might be dry because its soooo overhanging....
Walked halfway up the trail to Clem's Hollar only to get rained out the second time that day.
Got in the car, said "fuck it" started driving home.
Noticed that Index was dry while driving past...flipped a bitch and landed at the Lower Town Wall parking lot. The GNS was a mob scene, so decided to climb Iron Horse. Got to the base two seconds before two aid climbers who promptly decided to circle the climb while we were racking up. You climbing that? You climbing that free? You still climbing that? ...Aid climbers are goofs.
Racked up as dark clouds were building. Alex mentions, "dude, its just getting darker". Started up the climb. got to the first crux and the heavens opened up. Clipped an old binner onto the webbing, lowered off then ran for the car. Went home and sat on the couch. Watched th Soprano's which ended up being the most productive part of the day.
oh shit, that's too funny
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Nice Pictures Todd, looks like a stellar trip on the mountain
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So the week started off promising enough, with a partner lined up and plans to do something alpine. Maybe forbidden, or something at the Pass or wine spires. As the week wore on the weather didn't look too promising. Well then we'll just shift gears to Leavenworth - the sunshine capital of WA state, with 300 days of the big yellow a year - or at least so says this place.
By Friday the tentative plan was the South face of Prusik, with a back up of just finding some dry rock in the icicle if the long hike into the enchantments looked like it would be wasted effort. Well by Friday evening we decided to bail even on that.
By Saturday mid day I've done all the running around errands I needed to do (even went into work - ughh!) and was itching to get out. So I decided to rescue the weekend by hiking up to colchuk and doing the NBC. Spent the night at the trailhead trying to get some sleep in my car. It rained all night, fairly hard at times. When the clock went off at 3:15, I shut it off and bailed on the idea of doing the NBC in what was either going to be heavy rain or snow, and decided instead on a leisurely hike up to the lake and the dog route up to the summit.
So at 5:30 I leave the car, by 7:30 I'm at the lake sitting on a boulder taking this photo in the pouring rain.
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Hmm, don't even have the motivation to slog up the dog route. Heading back down to the car I find myself in a surprisingly good mood for some reason and start singing along to my mp3 player as I hike out in the downpour. Well one of my fav' don't-tell-anyone-I-actually-like-it songs is playing, and here I am doing my best american idol version of gwen stefanie:
This world is forcing me
To hold your hand
'Cause I'm just a girl, little ol' me
Don't let me out of your sight
I'm just a girl, all pretty and petite
So don't let me have any rights
Oh...I've had it up to here!
So I come around a corner in the trail and there I find two day hikers laughing their ass off at the sight and sound of an idiot running down the trail in the rain singing, "I'm just a girl". Told them that I was glad that I could make their day, and started singing again as I continued past.
Driving out of Leavenworth I run into Tim and Alex leaving the drip wall because it's too wet. ... I wonder how that conversation went:
Alex: you know Tim, it's been raining all night and part of the morning.
TimL: yeah I wonder where we could find some dry rock?
Alex: hey I know, lets go climb at a place that has a natural flow of water, you know something that's an ice climb in the winter.
TimL: Hey, let's go to the drip wall, that ought to be dry !!
Spent the rest of the morning hanging out in town at the renaissance basement restaurant drinking coffee, eating greasy food, and telling climbing lies. Tim and Alex headed off in search of dry rock and I headed home.
What a suck weekend.
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Seriously though, a few weeks ago (the ski in weekend) at the pass all the east and south stuff was mostly dry. Ledges on the sw rib of sews had snow on them (but the route stayed dry), the s arete downclimb was mostly snow free, the easy sw routes (becky, overexposure, rapple grapple) on liberty bell were dry. The north side of concord was all wet though, and the NW corner of news had a patch of snow that's in the alcove above the offwidth that was melting down the route, but the w face route looked ok.
Thadsboner and Skyclimb were there last weekend and I think joshK was going to do the n face of burgandy this weekend. Maybe they'll know more.
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Hey mike, here's a pic of the north face of dragontail from this morning. Hope it helps
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never mind .. I'm outta here.
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What'd you have in mind? I'm about to head off to solo Colchuk, but would rather get on some rock in leavenworth if it's dry. Give me a call, 425.896.2632
-john
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It'd be super cool to catch on video an eagle swooping down and carrying off a small animal - like your dying lamb. I wonder how much it could lift, maybe 10, 15 lbs?
my view is much less majestic, I'm looking out over a sea of empty cubes. where'd everyone go? why am I still here?
SEWS Southwest Buttress Questions
in North Cascades
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dude, your parents so deserve a tuition refund