jja
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Posts posted by jja
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Hey Jay sub's rock. Mine goes like a bat out of hell with the turbo motor and 5 spd. Gas mileage is total shit with my lead foot .. not even breaking 20 sometimes. I don't care though, it's fun, goes almost anywhere and is great at high speed on the hwy getting to where you're going.
The absolute worse though is everybody thinking that I'm a lib hippie cause I drive one. I swear I'm getting a Hummer next
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So we've got 10 days in the park in late June, early July this summer. I think we want to do at least two routes that typically start at the lower saddle. How bad does the hike up to the saddle suck? Instead of doing the approach twice does it make sense to bring a lot of food and fuel up there for say 4 or 5 days and do two or three routes? The books kind of implies that the lower saddle isn't a very pleasant place to hang out.
How bad is the valhalla traverse? Is it totally nuts to think I could get away with doing it in goretex sneakers and aluminum crampons on the way to do the north face or north ridge? Speaking of which, if we're only going to do one, which is the better route, the north face or the north ridge of the grand? Italian cracks or do the chimney and slab?
Anybody want to predict what the BI couloir is gonna be like in late june ?
If the Black Ice is out, what else is a similar climb that is more likely to be in? Is the Enclosure couloir boring?For straight up rock routes, am I right in thinking stuff like the guide wall, the snaz, and irene's arete are the best climbs in the 8 - 10a range, or are those just the super popular ones?
Totally psyched for this trip .. here's to ten solid days of sunshine with no afternoon t-storms !!
Thanks for any and all beta and/or spray.-john
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Just called the Lynwood store and they're all out
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30 bucks !? which store, seattle? how many left?
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No, it's a smallish computer company
I work for a biggish computer company, and we're trying to backfill some temp/contractor positions and are having a helluva time finding people. Some of the folks we have in those positions have left us recently for more money at MS, Adobe, etc.
I get the feeling (maybe just the hope) things are starting to heat up a little ... good luck !!
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get a new sheep yet ?
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Photo is of gumby ice climber with waaay too much stuff ..
Seriously if you're going to carry a pack, these little bullet packs are way cool. As long as you are going to be back at the start of the climb to retrieve your normal pack, I think it's worthwhile to carry one of these tiny packs. That way you don't have to compromise on pack size, carry a normal pack for the approach and a tiny one for the climb.
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Thief !! You plagiarized my photo and didn't even credit me
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I can fit everything you describe in a small pack like this (although I think my belay jacket compresses a lot better than a go-lite):
Carrying all that gear doesn't have to turn into a cluster so long as you access things efficiently. Use an autolocker so when you finish a lead you can set up the belay and start bringing up the second and still be able to put on a jacket or grab a bite w/o wasting too much time. Swinging leads helps too because it means you'll be messing around with your gear (ie putting on / taking off jacket, etc) half as often than if you just follow every pitch.
If I don't feel like carrying all that extra stuff - usually if I'm leading near my limit - I won't bring water or food .. I'm fat so I don't need the food, and I'll drink a liter before I start climbing. I'll ditch the camera too or have the partner carry it. The spare heavier gloves will go in the chest pockets of my jacket, and w/o a puffy jacket I'll just freeze at the belay
The other option is to just take one pack for 2, and have the second carry it. -
I don't have any current info, the last time I was in the ghost was the 27th or so of December. My guess based on the recent warm temps in the rockies is that the river would not be frozen.
Based on the river level when I was last there and with good boots and tight gaiters, I think you could make it across the river crossings on foot ok. Might want to bring a spare pair of socks just in case though.
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Man peed way out of avalanche
A Slovak man trapped in his car under an avalanche freed himself by drinking 60 bottles of beer and urinating on the snow to melt it.
Rescue teams found Richard Kral drunk and staggering along a mountain path four days after his Audi car was buried in the Slovak Tatra mountains. He told them that after the avalanche, he had opened his car window and tried to dig his way out. But as he dug with his hands, he realised the snow would fill his car before he managed to break through.
He had 60 half-litre bottles of beer in his car as he was going on holiday, and after cracking one open to think about the problem he realised he could urinate on the snow to melt it, local media reported. He said: "I was scooping the snow from above me and packing it down below the window, and then I peed on it to melt it. It was hard and now my kidneys and liver hurt. But I'm glad the beer I took on holiday turned out to be useful and I managed to get out of there."
Parts of Europe have this week been hit by the heaviest snowfalls since 1941, with some places registering more than ten feet of snow in 24 hours.
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does to
it is a well known fact that where ever i may roam has at least 3 parties on route and 3 parties queued up at the base at any given time of the day
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rapping wherever i may roam sucks
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any update on when the seattle shops might get it? I've called and they don't have it, and they don't know when they're getting it ..
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Changed pretty quick didn't it ? from -29 wind chill on saturday to possible rain on monday
Text Forecast from Environment Canada
Lillooet: Issued 11.00 AM PST Friday 14 January 2005
Today .. Sunny. Wind north 20 km/h. High minus 16. Cold wind chill minus 27. Risk of frostbite.
Tonight .. Clear. Wind north 20 km/h. Low minus 21. Cold wind chill minus 32. Risk of frostbite.
Saturday .. A mix of sun and cloud. Wind north 20 km/h. High minus 12. Cold wind chill minus 29. Risk of frostbite.
Sunday .. Cloudy. 60 percent chance of flurries. Low minus 13. High minus 5.
Monday .. Rain showers or flurries. Low minus 5. High plus 2.
Tuesday .. Showers. Low 1. High 6.
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Thanks, I've been able to make plans now.
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yeah, you better go to lillooet this weekend instead. you hear that american hordes, there is no longer any ice in hope. stay awaaaay.
Whatever happened to
Sharing is a Canadian value. "Beavers, beavers, beavers, sharing, sharing, sharing"Besides the american hordes weren't in lillooet last weekend, the place was a ghost town, I suspect they were all hoarding up the world class ice at snoq. pass
I'm sure it'll be much the same this weekend as well.Don't worry canucks, all those wet and short wi3 fa's in hope are all yours
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Need a partner for this weekend. I can leave the eastside around 4pm on friday. I can drive. I've got a couple of things in mind but am open to whatever.
pm or email,
-john
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Sounds like an urban legend .. in fact I think this story was on the discovery show "myth busters"
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Salmon stakes was as sucky and stupid as you once told me it was !!
Went to do hell creek on saturday and try and access some of the other "hell" climbs higher up, but after stemming around one too many gushers down low on the solo-able ice decided to bail to rescue the remainder of the day.
Tried to get across the river on the little ice islands, but they would quickly fall apart as soon as you stood on them, so just hiked up river to the usual gravel bar crossing and ran across the river sans garbage bags, and made it to the other side mostly dry. Hiked up the crappy gully, gained the crappy ice, climbed the uninteresting ice steps, to the oh so enjoyable low angle is-this-ever-gonna-end-and-do-I-walk-or-use-tools-annoying-nonsense ice.
Descended in the dark with one working head lamp, drove back to lillooet and realized I was now out a $119 retail almost new pair of gloves.
any Xterra owners?
in Spray
Posted
I used to have a jeep with 33's and locked diffs, so I know what real off road is .. it's just that some of us do really drive sub's the way they are intended, almost 2' deep water crossing in the ghost counts right