dave

A little something for the holidays! Pargo! Cheers, Dave

"cc.com is strictly a community based website run by 2 friends for the greater gain of the climbing community."-privacy statement “I think it is gay to be ….”” Your dick is in your butt””Bring it on loser”. “I'd be happy to rid the earth of your filth.” “Pussy! If most of you people were lying there bleeding in front of me because of a stupid judgement call I would walk on by. Most end up as coward tail between the legs walk offs, proving how much guts you really have. we can determine who is king of the hill. I'd be ready to bash your face in if you want to meet any time. Fucking loser. It's not like I need a reason to hate you anyway. Sometimes I think if some idiot jackass falls to his death or serious injury near me I might just - asess the situation and if I decide he\she is a fuckwad leave them for death and walk on by. you are the typical punk ass I had delight to kick their teeth out in school. Listen fuckwad hippy I don't like you Shut up before I hurt you next time I see you” "cc.com is strictly a community based website run by 2 friends for the greater gain of the climbing community."

I guess they have to have good climbing (moves but also some length to the pitch), incredible position/scenery, and ? intimidation? #1 How about pitch 2 of Reed's (5.9) in Yosemite? Are those not the most skeleton grabbing jams anywhere? And it looks kind of mean for 5.9 from below the last pitch of zebra zion at Smith is a kick in the pants, Split pillar, position and climbing, damn Mosquito is mighty fine, Illusion Dweller 10b, Sail Away 8, Double Cross 7, in Joshua tree Godzilla is the Business for moderate at Index, Breakfast of Champions? Givlers in Leavenworth, Don't know Leavenworth too well but midway (direct?) has sweet easy hand crack up high, traversing up and right, for the grade the position and scenery, fun fun MF overhang- not pure crack but technical, and yeehaw

In any ol' order Couch potatoing dream symphony on the apron with my buddy John, engaging the whole way, northwest face north early winter with Alli, perfect! nw gully Eldorado with the boys paddling horshoe bend of nooksack with Hale et al (whoops) Larrabee sandstone, evening light, with friends and beers

Hey, Captain Camaraderie I am a long hair/short hair hippy fuckwad. Why don't you kick my ass too? Since before time began, your comments have been irritating my inflamed hemmorhoidal tissue, I can barely walk! What a Brother of the Rope you must be! Tossing off threats to other climbers while wacking off your huge dick on top of the mountain! (or is it front of the computer these days?) Maybe we should climb together? No, we must! we must! Enjoy the mountains Good Tidings, maybe beat on some snivelling and puny fuckwads! Smile, smile, laugh, laugh, your a gas, I'm aghast. ass, Ass! Until Then and Most Sincerely, Dave Leahy

Using an autoblock, also called a third hand, is a preferred method in the guiding community. I don't quite understand the significance of all the references to passing the knot as most recreational climbers descend via one or two ropes, not multiple ropes tied together. The advantage of the autoblock is that the climbers bodyweight is never on the hitch, it merely serves to hold the rope in the braking position below the device. Therefore it is quite easy to loosen the hitch after it "locks". A friction hitch (whatever you want to call it) above the device, if loaded, will be holding close to all of the climbers weight. This can create an annoying situation if the terrain is steep or overhanging. Certain types of cord, especially small diameter, are a bit difficult to manage on rappell as they will will want to catch, bite, get loaded on the main line. Dealing with this is a pain in the ass, as if rappelling isn't dangerous enough. The climbers weight will have to be put on the rap line via another friction hitch, above the loaded prusik, then the initial prusik unweighted. Other ways as well which are great fun to pracice while trying to get off something quickly! Kidding. Autoblocks are nice whenever a person would like to make rappelling safer, or things are not so good for whatever reason. Worth mentioning the autoblock generally slows low angle rappelling to a crawl and can be annoying. Use the firemans for the second and subsequent climbers to descend.

Climbed in the Coulee City area on the 19 and 20 of December. What I think was Rainier light and another route right next door were in good condition to lead. Grade 4, 70-80 feet and can be seen heading south on hwy 17 from Coulee City at around mile marker 82. The routes will be on the left. Head up a side road for a few hundred yards and walk through the sage for 5 or 10 minutes, climb and rap off sage of right hand route, which was the slightly harder of the two. Lots of ice formed up along Banks Lake, mostly steep and sustained. The Devil's Punchbowl was threatened by crazy overhanging icicles and didn't seem worth it, but in thick. There is a good leadable pillar down and to the left of the Punchbowl. Someone told me that they climbed Guinness a few days earlier and it was in good shape, grade 5ish. The Absent Minded Professor did not exist at all. Champagne looked in from the road, up close it was very heavily chandeliered and looked hard to protect.

Climbed Entropy at Soo Bluffs, Whistler on thursday, the 13th. Good fun, a little thin. Also Calcheck (sp.?) just south of town, one fun pitch, also a little thin, grade 3 30m?. Glimmer Twins up Rutherford Creek did not appear to be in.