Colin

I think I just realized why this has been so confusing for me. The face I'm thinking of is after Bridal Veil Falls, and before Hope, and is therefore a North face. Would that make it part of the Cheam Range then, Jordop? In that section of Highway, it has always stood out to me as being very large and very close to the road. That must narrow it down...

Dru, Driving North of Hope on Highway 1, it is on your right after the Highway crosses to the East side of the river (a West face). I can't remember if it is before or after Boston Bar. In any event, you can barely see the top of it without sticking your head out of the car window - It starts really low, but it is massive. I've always wondered what it is - Anyone know?

I'm not very familiar with BC. Is Robie Reid that huge face you see on your right when driving North from Hope?

So I saw the movie, "The Deerhunter" for the first time a few days ago, and was very pleased to see some of our own in there: -Mount Baker -Mount Shuksan -Pyramid Peak -Paul Bunyan's Stump Just a little bonus to an already good movie!

Price aside, does anyone have a reason why the I-Tent is better than the MK1-Lite, or vice-versa? The largest difference I see are the types of vents used on each. Integral Designs starting putting their door zippers (one for netting, one for fabric) in series (rather than parallel) a few years ago, which I think is rather silly - I'm not sure if they're still doing it. The MK1-Lite is slightly lighter, but probably only because it is slightly smaller.

DLL said: "Sprindrift(referred to earlier in this post) was repeated a few years ago by some dude that Bart knows. Solo. Still awaiting a third though, anyone keeping an eye out?" Who was the soloist? Miles? Also, the route was climbed by 7 people last winter, in three different parties. When DLL made that post it was still awaiting a third, but I thought I'd clarify. [ 11-06-2002, 07:10 PM: Message edited by: Colin ]

What does "T-rated" mean? My Shrikes originally came with an older version of the Cobra Pick. Are these Cobra picks?

I've got two copies of that map/guide booklet. I'd probably be happy to sell or photocopy one. Just out of curiousity though - Why?

So, is the Teacup Handle the West Ridge or the North Ridge of Table Mountain? I assume by the nature of the post and it's proximity to Baker, that it is volcanic choss?

The new-style Yates Screamers have a shrink-wrapped rubber/plastic covering to keep the "wings" in, while the old-style ones had a sleeve of elastic. I think that this is probably a better option overall, because the stupid elastic things were always sliding down, but I was wondering about one thing. When the main body of the sling gets wet, does it take forever for it to dry out under that rubber tube? Are the new-style screamers more prone to mildew?

Anyone else ever notice that those people who get called "pussies" or "fags" for having an environmental conscience, are the only ones who can actually climb?

I agree with Cavey. I will give my soul to anyone who can climb the Central Pillar of Swiss Peak in a day car-to-car.

99-66-92 mm (33 mm sidecut) The skis were $360 new, the Chile's were $100, and the TRP's were $200. I'll stick out for something higher than that Beck, but thanks for the offer.

Just bringing it to the top.

If anybody else has a similar need, I've got a pair of Silvretta 400's that I can part with. They aren't exactly the latest and greatest, but they are in fine working order, have heel lifters, and work well with climbing boots. $80 or best offer. colinhaley@attbi.com 206-232-1798

The new Trango B-52 looks very promising, and I've heard that Petzl will be making a new Reverso that is better for skinny ropes.

In September 2001, I climbed the South Route with friends Andreas, Greg, and Sean. We climbed fairly fast, and managed 5:20 car-to-car. I believe that it was 2:45 car-to-summit, but it might have been 3:00. Andreas, Greg, and Sean all had approach shoes, but I was in Makalu's, so no need to toss out your hikers! When we were looking in the summit register, we noticed a guy who had soloed the South Route several times (I believe it was Steve something), and had mentioned that he had done some of the flagging (thank him if you find him!). If I remember correctly, his car-to-summit time was 3:15 or 3:30. While driving away, we saw some guys standing on the side of the road, looking up at Garfield, and we stopped to talk. When I asked if they were checking out one of the Doorish routes, one of them said, "Well, actually I am Pete Doorish." Upon hearing this, one of his younger companions said, "Dude, you're famous!?" I went back the next weekend, with friend Mark, to try one of the South face routes. This time we got veritably spanked. We got about 2/3 of the way up the Central Gully (not even to the "base" of the climb), before giving up and making several rappels on the way down. The Central Gully was characterized by flat sections interspersed with fifth class steps. I've since wondered if there was any snow in it when Doorish did his routes (possibly burying some of the steep steps).

If you go and climb the C-J Couloir and decide not to descend it, I would reccomend taking the Gunsight Notch descent route. I wrote this up in late August: From the Cascade-Johannesberg col, we made a descending traverse on scree below the buttresses of Cascade and the Triplets. From the base of the South buttress on the Triplets, you make a LONG and slightly rising traverse across the alp slope (tall, alpine grass). When you start traversing around the South side of Mixup, you notice a tread in places (a very, very faint trail). There are a few rock gullies to cross, but they are very easy 3rd class at the hardest. Eventually, you get into the narrow, grassy basin below Gunsight Notch, and hike up to it. Even though it is late august, getting on to the snow was only 40 ft. of easy downclimbing (and a rappel would have been easy too - there were already slings). From Gunsight Notch, make a descending traverse to the left, to the Western edge of the Cache Glacier, where one can find a climber's trail leading all the way to Cascade Pass.

Also, reach me either at colinhaley@attbi.com, or at 206-232-1798.

$200, or best offer: -BD Resolutions (170's) -Rottefella TRP 100 DIN release plates -Rottefella Hot Chile Bindings* It's used, but not at all thrashed. I've gotten taller and heavier, and I need more flotation. On a side note, I am looking for used 180's that are soft and WIDE. *You can get my Riva 2's if you like instead, although most people would probably prefer the Hot Chile's.

Dru said: "Back to the topic, isnt the East Face of East McMillan Spire still unclimbed?" I think you mean the NE face. I climbed the S face / E ridge about a month ago, and there wasn't any real E face, just an E ridge. However, it does look like there is a large section of face (NE facing) just to climber's left of the N buttress. However, I wouldn't be suprised if the N buttress has never seen a second ascent, so it'd probably be just as much of an adventure.

The best bivy ledge is about halfway between Torment and Forbidden, on the north side of the crest, with snow to melt water. Don't underestimate the snow/ice diffuculties on this route - I would reccomend steel crampons rather than aluminum ones, and a real axe/hammer (there are two icefield's that one traverses on the north side of the ridge, which are fairly steep).

Highlander, I've done both approaches a few times, and I'd reccomend the Ingalls Lake way for this trip. I think that the Mountaineer Creek approach is only preferable for winter/spring/early-summer. This late in the year, Ingalls will probably be faster - even for the complete. When I did it a couple weeks ago, we took both crampons and ice axes, but never used the crampons - something to consider.

Anti-Twight, "Ah, Steins Pillar, a sight that provoked Layton Kor to drive all the way from Colorado for the second ascent." Is this true? Where'd you hear it? In the old brown Beckey guide (it's not included in the new one), Beckey writes: "On the second ascent by Fred Beckey, Steve Marts, Dave Beckstead, and Eric Bjornstad, it was found that..." Was there some sort of controversy here? By the way, Stein's Pillar doesn't belong in the Beckey guide at all - I think he just threw it in because he was really proud of his second ascent. Nice job, that thing looks awesome.

Mark and I did this route last summer, and never made any rappels (on the climb). When it was time to leave the crest and drop to the right, we just made a traverse instead. I'm not sure if we left the crest prematurely or not, but I don't think we did. Beware the notch at which the route tops out - it is by far the worst rock on the route and is quite loose. From the notch we made one single-rope rappel, before scrambling down to the snowfield.