Jason_Martin

The best way to start is to take some lessons: http://www.aai.cc/Programs/Group/ice/ Jason

To get authorized permitting from any land agency in the United States or Canada, you will need liability insurance. Most places require a policy of either 500k or 1 million dollars per occurrence. If you work for a school, and you take any money at all for taking people out, land managers consider you to be a guide and you have to have a permit. If you get caught guiding without a permit or if you have an accident on public land without a permit, things are going to get very very nasty. Jason

How to Build a V-Thread Ice Anchor The Ice Bollard Jason

Lots of backcountry skis in the shop. A few pairs of ice tools. Lots of crampons. Lots of tents. A bunch of trekking poles. Some rock shoes. Deals abound! Check it out this weekend! Jason

Rocky_Joe, They're still going through the inventory, but they just confirmed that we have Quarks, Vipers and Reactors for sale. Blake, Forest is down in Red Rocks, but I know we could definitely sell a lot more stuff if he were at the sale and looking at everybody over his glasses like that! Jason

Dawn is awesome. Wish I could make it! Dawn Receives AMGA President's Award Dawn Appears on the Weather Channel Dawn wins the Ouray Ice Festival Dawn on the Cover of Alpinist Jason

The American Alpine Institute will run its annual gear sale on October 10th and 11th from 9am to 6pm. Save up to 75% on rental gear! Save 15% on all new store merchandise! Get a free AAI t-shirt with any purchase of $100 or more! Photo by Steve Smith. The Equipment Shop at the American Alpine Institute may be found at 1513 12th street, Bellingham, Washington, 98225. For more information, please call 360-671-1570. Jason

Neither of them had very good knowledge of mountain rescue techniques at the time that this happened. The whole thing could have been managed better...and if it were, Simon wouldn't have ended up in the situation that he ended up in... I've said this in the past and got jumped on because the route was so difficult. But the reality is that they pulled off an ascent that was way out of their league at the time and then got messed up on the descent. It's amazing that both of them survived... Jason

FYI... For those who have friends who will be at this event and that you would like to have trained...or if you yourself are a beginner and would like some free training this weekend... The American Alpine Institute is running an American Mountain Guides Association Single Pitch Instructor Exam this weekend at Leavenworth. We are currently seeking individuals who would like to play the role of student for the exam candidates on Sunday, September 27th. Primarily we are interested in climbers who haven't spent a great deal of time outdoors. The exam candidates will provide a day's worth of climbing instruction to those who are interested under the supervision of an AMGA Certified Rock Guide for free. The American Mountain Guides Association (AMGA) Single Pitch Instructor Course and exam is the first in the AMGA sequence of climbing instructor and guide training programs. The SPI course was designed to help capable recreational climbers transition into capable and effective climbing instructors. The course focuses on the technical skills required by an instructor as they are applied in all forms of single pitch climbing instruction. In addition to this, the course addresses the essential educational and environmental tenets required to teach climbing. Those seeking certification may go on to take a two day field examination following the course. Certified Single Pitch Instructors are expected to demonstrate the technical and educational proficiencies necessary to instruct a variety of single pitch rock climbing skills in a safe and effective manner to both groups and individuals To read more about the AMGA Single Pitch Instructor course and exam, please click on the following link: http://www.aai.cc/ProgramDetail/spi/ If you would like to participate in this guide assessment as a mock student and to obtain some free training, please call me at: 360-671-1505 Thanks, Jason Martin

The American Alpine Institute is running an American Mountain Guides Association Single Pitch Instructor Exam this weekend at Leavenworth. We are currently seeking individuals who would like to play the role of student for the exam candidates on Sunday, September 27th. Primarily we are interested in climbers who haven't spent a great deal of time outdoors. The exam candidates will provide a day's worth of climbing instruction to those who are interested under the supervision of an AMGA Certified Rock Guide for free. The American Mountain Guides Association (AMGA) Single Pitch Instructor Course and exam is the first in the AMGA sequence of climbing instructor and guide training programs. The SPI course was designed to help capable recreational climbers transition into capable and effective climbing instructors. The course focuses on the technical skills required by an instructor as they are applied in all forms of single pitch climbing instruction. In addition to this, the course addresses the essential educational and environmental tenets required to teach climbing. Those seeking certification may go on to take a two day field examination following the course. Certified Single Pitch Instructors are expected to demonstrate the technical and educational proficiencies necessary to instruct a variety of single pitch rock climbing skills in a safe and effective manner to both groups and individuals To read more about the AMGA Single Pitch Instructor course and exam, please click on the following link: http://www.aai.cc/ProgramDetail/spi/ If you would like to participate in this guide assessment as a mock student and to obtain some free training, please call me at: 360-671-1505 Thanks, Jason Martin

That's what I'm talking about. Thanks Buckaroo! Jason

I guess I wouldn't say don't try it. Instead, I would say to just be aware that some parties have had trouble with it. The topo definitely refers to multiple rappels as does the SW BC book. The most helpful thing for everyone here would be to stop calling names and for someone who nailed the descent to amend the topo for future climbers. Jason

We did it about three weeks ago and there was water on the approach and slightly above the forest on the descent. There was no water on route. The gullies I rapped were in the crux routefinding section part II. Crux routefinding part I was straight forward and simple. Part II was a lot more complex. The beta isn't quite right in either the Southwest book or in the topo. You might find our rap stations, but be prepared to surrender a bit of gear. We did go down through the woods low on the descent, but never found the flagging. This wasn't really a big deal though. The big deal on the descent was crux routefinding number II on the topo I posted. However, it does sound like people have somehow completely avoided that section. Jason

Marc, Did you look at the topo I posted? It clearly says to go down those gullies. Obviously, it's not a great topo if there is a better way to go. Jason

Marc, You must be really really really good. Thanks for putting me in my place. I must be really really bad. It was really nice of you to point out my deficiencies. I'll be sure to keep them in mind. I don't get the flaming on the internet. Is this what you want to hear from someone you don't know? This is a legitimate thread that should be kept clear of this kind of junk. I actually feel pretty comfortable with new routing. I've got about thirty FAs...mostly in spots where the descent was the crux. I guess I could keep spraying about myself, but then this would turn into another useless dick measuring thread... The Crossover Descent isn't new routing. Indeed, based on all the feedback I saw on the net prior to our experience this is a well-traveled descent. But as I stated, it's likely that people are going all over that ridge and as a result a trail has not begun to form. Had I been aware of this, I wouldn't have been looking for a trail or for carins. I guess the take-home point of this entire thread for the person who is thinking of this descent, is that it could be cruxy...but if you nail it spot on, could be okay... Jason

Crossover Pass is only as Suck as whoever does the routefinding Now. Now. Let's all play nice... We followed this topo and felt that it was pretty honest in it's overall description. However, there was one section where the topo was a little bit off in what he calls the "Second Crux Routefinding" area and we never found the "trail" with flagging in the woods down low, even after traversing the hillside repeatedly. I think I could do it a lot faster now that I wouldn't be looking for signs of humans passing before me. There are very few carins to follow, only a few rap anchors to speak of, and no worn trail anywhere on the descent. We also upset a beehive on our way down, which really wasn't very much fun... That said, if I were to do it again, I would go down Slesse Creek. Jason

Crossover Pass sucks. We had to leave four cams on the descent down the last set of gullies. It was not pleasant and took almost as long as the route to deal with. Jason

We've got enough people. Thanks for calling. I'll put a new notice up next time we do this. Jason

The American Alpine Institute is running an American Mountain Guides Association Single Pitch Instructor Exam this weekend at Mount Erie. We are currently seeking individuals who would like to play the role of student for the exam candidates on Sunday, August 30th. Primarily we are interested in climbers who haven't spent a great deal of time outdoors. The exam candidates will provide a day's worth of climbing instruction to those who are interested under the supervision of an AMGA Certified Rock Guide for free. The American Mountain Guides Association (AMGA) Single Pitch Instructor Course and exam is the first in the AMGA sequence of climbing instructor and guide training programs. The SPI course was designed to help capable recreational climbers transition into capable and effective climbing instructors. The course focuses on the technical skills required by an instructor as they are applied in all forms of single pitch climbing instruction. In addition to this, the course addresses the essential educational and environmental tenets required to teach climbing. Those seeking certification may go on to take a two day field examination following the course. Certified Single Pitch Instructors are expected to demonstrate the technical and educational proficiencies necessary to instruct a variety of single pitch rock climbing skills in a safe and effective manner to both groups and individuals To read more about the AMGA Single Pitch Instructor course and exam, please click on the following link: http://www.aai.cc/ProgramDetail/spi/ If you would like to participate in this guide assessment as a mock student and to obtain some free training, please call me at: 360-671-1505 Thanks, Jason Martin

Green Lake Memorial July 11th...

Sarah Palin Resigns

Denali Overland is $75 per way... Jason

The American Alpine Institute still has room on it's Kautz Glacier trip. http://www.aai.cc/ProgramDetail/rainier/ Jason

Backcountry Skiing and Snowboarding in the Northwest: A Slideshow hosted by AAI Guides January 21, 2009 at 7:00pm Join the American Alpine Institute for a free slideshow on Backcountry Skiing and Snowboard in the Pacific Northwest! This free show will feature photos and a discussion lead by AAI mountain and ski guides. Presentations include skiing the Spearhead Traverse, the Coleman Pinnacle, and splitboarding on Washington Pass. American Alpine Institute – Equipment Shop 1513 12th St, Bellingham Event Cost: Free Snacks and Drinks will be provided Phone: 360-671-1505 www.aai.cc/winter_clinic.asp

After logging hundreds and hundreds of days at RR, I still can't get it out of my blood. It is the best climbing area in the country. It does take a little time to get used to the rock, but once you are...there's no place better... Jason