dbconlin
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Posts posted by dbconlin
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If you injured yourself belaying, then simulclimbing probably isn't for you.
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In accordance with much advice above, I would suggest:
1. general fitness activities, biking, hiking, etc.
2. indoor rock climbing, learn the skills, get some technique.
3. go summit some easy 'mountains' just walk-ups are fine.
4. start cragging outdoors, top-rope, bouldering, maybe lead some day.
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That is interesting what you said about the arms. My Figure 4 (hoodless Ready Mix) seems to have about the same length arms as the Alpha Comp. The Alpha Comp has baggier arms though. Other than that, I find they fit about the same. The Patagonia might be a tad snugger in the chest/torso. I wonder if the Figure 4 and Ready Mix are cut slightly differently..?
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Also consider:
Rigid midsole/shank
Heel bail at minimum, toe bail nice
Vibram sole/good rubber
sticky rubber rand
ankle flexibility
While brand name isn't everything, there is a reason certain brands are commonly chosen and others aren't.
In my opinion, that Columbia boot would be totally inappropriate for climbing/mountaineering.
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Post deleted by dbconlin
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I am so glad we went to war and now Saddam is hanged. Bush is so great.
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I have the hoodless version. It is excellent. I really debated between the Ready Mix and the Alpha Comp Hoody. It is kind of a tossup, but I went with the hybrid.
The material Patagonia uses sheds weather really well, is very wind-proof, very breathable, and dries fast (and light, as you mentioned). If you want to go full softshell, this would be my top choice. It is not hybrid though. My only quibbles are with the cuff tabs. Also, it is not very stretchy, but do you really need it to be? It fits close.
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BThe nerves in my foot are regenerating right now and it FUCKING HURTS! Like someone is pulling out my toenails and cutting the bottom of my foot with knives while pouring salt on it and having an elephant step on it, like 1,000 sting ray stings.
Something to look forward too...next year...
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works for me. thanks guys.
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The Sportiva boot looks nice. Wonder how it compares with the Columbia Titanium Ice Field.
They don't:
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CCKMP.
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yeah, good all-round mountaineering boot. not so good for steep ice. La Sportiva makes some higher, stiffer leather boots that would also be good for what you suggest, but may be able to take on a little more technical terrain when needed.
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Baltoro's post reminded me of the REI Taku jacket. Hybrid jacket that weighs same as Arteryx Alpha Comp (18 oz). $199. Outside magazine Gear of the Year Award Winner!!!! for what that is worth. Ugly though. I tried one on once and the fit wasn't for me, but maybe for you.
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I agree you should probably start off with at least a couple of days at a resort before heading into the backcountry. You should also invest in some avalanche awareness training and you will need to buy a shovel/beacon/probe at the minimum, in addition to ski equipment. If you are relatively fit and agile, though, I don't see why you couldn't be in the backcountry very quickly, especially on AT gear (easier than tele).
Ideally, you will want:
1. good boots; I don't think this is the place to skimp. Get thermoformable liners and have them custom fit.
2. bindings; I don't know much about 'em since I am a tele skier, but I would look for some used ones per the suggestions above unless you have a lot of money to spend, in which case just buy the best (whatever that may be).
3. skis; For your size and considering your desire to do mostly backcountry, I would look for a ski in the upper 170s cm length and with a waist of 86-92 mm. However, for a beginner, I think the skis are a good place to save a bunch of money by buying something used and/or cheap. Sometimes stores like Gart Sports have some really cheap downhill skis brand new; just make sure they don't have integrated bindings or whatever.
4. poles; ideally you will want adjustable poles, but you could start off with regular cheap ski poles, maybe in the 120 cm size range; I guess the way to size them is to hold them while standing and your elbow should make about a 90 degree bend.
5. skins; good luck finding used ones in good shape. Otherwise you are looking to pay at least $100. BD/Ascension, Backcountry Access, and G3 all make good skins. You will need to size them to your skis, which is a whole other controversy. The easiest (although arguably not the best) way to do this is to buy skins that are the largest size narrower than the waist of your ski. Otherwise, you can go larger and trim them to fit.
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I don't think Beyond Fleece is offering a hybrid jacket, unless you consider the WB stuff to be the 'hardshell' part and I think that stuff is heavy.
I have had my Alpha Comp out on a few trips now, and I like it a lot.
I think Mammut is making a hybrid jacket, but it is relatively heavy.
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Chair Peak is in. More mixed/alpine than ice per se, 3rd pitch of the NF route is a little hairy right now.
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My memory tells me (and I am not going to look it up right now) that the data REI publishes indicated that an XGK is slightly quicker and more fuel efficient than a Whisperlite. I don't think the difference is great or warrants purchasing a new stove. One of the main advantages of the XGK is its incredible simplicity. You can take apart and troubleshoot the stove with minimal tools and time. Therefore it seems to ALWAYS work. I think you can do it with the whisperlite, too, but it is a little more complicated/more parts. I think the weakest link is the fuel pump. If you mess it up, you could be out of luck.
For canister stoves, one thing you can try in order to streamline your fuel/person dilemma is weigh your canisters. The 'tare weight' is listed on the side of most and you can easily figure out how much fuel you actually used. I've found that a JetBoil works very well even in cold/wind/altitude if you cook inside the tent. I would definitely use one for winter climbing, but you must cook inside so plan accordingly. This keeps wind out and warms the tent, thereby warming the canister.
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no one here uses propane ?
no.
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Have you ever put a crampon through your hand while soloing steep ice? Have you ever attempted to duffersitz on a free rappel?
Just curious
HA HA ha ha...
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While climbing yesterday, my fingers became very very cold. When I got to the end of the pitch, I took off my gloves and put my hands in my armpits to warm them. My partner had some opened handwarmer packets, which he offered and I accepted. Holding one in each hand, it quickly became obvious they were too hot. I gave them back and continued warming my hands in my armpits. Seemed to go well. In about five minutes, feeling had fully returned and I felt good to go. I had no more problems the rest of the day. But when I got in my car to drive, I noticed that one of my fingertips did not have full feeling.
So, is this frostnip? frostbite? Are there any concerns about future performance of my digit in cold conditions? Will full feeling return?
Any personal experiences or medical know-how would be appreciated. Thanks.
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There is a feature story in the latest Rock & ICe regarding recovery from tennis elbow. They recommend a number of excercises to re-train the arm movements. Worth checking out.
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I have never known a bivy sack that you could not fit a sleeping pad inside. Don't know bout that REI minimalist.
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I have the winter bivy. It is definitely more of an emergency sack or a sleeping bag cover for relatively good weather or an additional layer inside a tent. Not for full on living in. I think it is a great choice, though, for very light climbing applications. Keeps the snow off your bag, very breathable, and light (and inexpensive!). It is not hard to crawl in - I just but it over my sleeping bag and crawl in them together, then (optionally) pull the hood over. The epic fabric is NOT waterPROOF - I would not recommend this as your primary shelter if rain is even a possibility. More of a 'winter' bivy...
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there is a reason the nine.9 is the most common one out there. I tried on a lot before I bought it and it was the best.
What Is a Winter Ascent?
in Climber's Board
Posted
I have always understood 'winter' to be Dec. 21 - March 20. However, this definition lacks appeal for obvious reasons. I am not one to get too hung up on this sort of thing, but the Meteorological definition seems to be a good compromise between the somewhat arbitrary Astronomical winter and the impractical Climatological definition.
Let the revolution begin...