dbconlin
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Posts posted by dbconlin
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yeah, but you cannot attach a grivel slider.
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nice work guys. looks like an appealing line.
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f'n awesome! what a sweet line and stellar conditions. That ice looks purdy!
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that looks sweet! way to go, guys!
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Trip: Kent NF - unnamed mixed route
Date: 2/3/2007
Trip Report:
On Saturday, scottgg and I climbed the north face of Mt. Kent via a mixed line to the right of the major ice pillar seen in the center of this photo and what from this angle appears to be about half way up the face:
Here is a closer up shot of the route, the sweet-looking pillar to the left, and our line on the right:
We left the TH at 0415, arriving at the base of the face at 0630. We started off with some simul-climbing for a couple hundred meters over some grade 2+ ice and steep snow slopes into the bowl beneath the pillar. We had intended to climb the pillar itself but when we got there it looked too big, steep, and intimidating for our mediocre waterfall ice skills (probably grade 5). I consider myself a better alpine mixed climber than waterfall ice climber and felt more confident leading up the mixed line instead. It turned out to be more difficult than it looked, but not too bad. Protection was scarce (the rock was pretty poor, we had a minimal rock rack as we had intended to be on ice, ice wasn't thick or good enough for even stubby screws, and the shrubs were further between and more fragile than it had appeared from below) but I found a decent belay under a roof after about 40 meters. Scott took the next lead, up some more sketch ice, to some better rock with a good tree anchor, and then traversing left on exposed mixed climbing back into the drainage above the ice pillar. Both of these pitches I would rate at about WI3+ M4/5.8. We belayed one more pitch on moderate grade 3 ice steps above the pillar and then simul-climbed the rest of the way to the summit, arriving at about 1330 in a light drizzle.
Looking up the mixed line (be assured it is steeper than this photo depicts / good ole foreshortening at work):
Scott approaching the first belay:
Scott starting out the second pitch, you can see the ice pillar in the background:
Some mixed moves on the second pitch:
Scott removing the last screw on the last belayed pitch, just above the last technical difficulty, a short WI3 ice step:
Scott approaching the last belay, from whence onward we simulclimbed:
Summit shots (me=short, scott=tall):
Overall a fun alpine route with a little bit of everything, some water ice, some mixed climbing, minor routefinding challenges, and some vertical bushwacking in spots. This was Scott's last climb before becoming a father (baby due next week). Congrats Scott!
Gear Notes:
lots of long slings for the trees would be nice!
Approach Notes:
Quick with solid snow conditions, just over 2 hours to the base of the face.
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looks to me like:
carbon fiber vs. aluminum shaft
cobra = straighter lower shaft with more severe bend up high, while
viper = more continuously curved shaft
resulting in:
cobra - plunge better, pound pitons better
viper - more clearance
it actually looks like the cobra gives an overall steeper hooking angle though.
all this is of course just from gaping at the photos, i've never seen them in person.
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i can't stop looking at those pictures. anyone who was at the show care to comment on the grip design? big hands. little hands. same as previous versions, different?
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Where is mountaineers creek in relation to icicle creek road?
approximately perpendicular...
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Yes, this is what I have been waiting for!
-clearance shaft
-pinky rest/guard
-full strength (?) clip in point for umbilical
Yes! Yes! Yes!
-and of course BDs great head/pick designs.
Bonus!
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Nice job! That must've been you we saw over there. We were thankful that you guys were on the first pitch when we got there, giving us an easy excuse to do something else--something much less committing! NYC007 and I climbed Wash. Dihedrals, which was really fun & mellow with no runouts...
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I think catbirdseat's most recent post is useful advice:
The times I a most likely to use the self - arrest grip is when I am on easy terrain and NOT actively using the axe for self-belay. I am moving fast, just using the axe for balance, if I slip it is easy to self arrest.I would add to it that when travelling on low-angled glacier, where the most likely fall would involve arresting a ropemates fall into a crevasse, would be a good place to use self-arrest grip.
On steep snow slopes where one may be using the axe to help move their weight against gravity, the piolet canne position makes more sense.
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They should just get rid of pennies and round all coin transactions up to the nearest nickel.
yes! all the 'developing' countries i have been to do this standard. you sometimes have to buy things '3 for a [monetary unit]' instead of being able to buy just one, so they don't have to deal with worthless units of currency. pennies are so lame. some countries I have been to essentially roung to the nearest dime or larger. and this is in countries where smaller amounts of money are more valuable. why can't we do this in the US? [well, because businesses can make a lot of money by nickeling and diming us (but not penny-ing?). It adds up] whatever
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Patagonia Guide pants seem to run a little long, but maybe not that long. Mammut pants are available in a zillion sizes. Other than that, maybe beyondfleece would be the ticket.
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the second pitch doesn't need to be protected really.
i placed one screw, slung one tree, before reaching the next belay.
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whoah, what a day to hear your story.
I got a cat recently and it has been doing really well with our dog. today is their first day home alone together while we are at work. i hope i don't come home to what you did!
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So, you cannot load MapTech or National Geo maps to Garmin GPS units, correct?
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i have a couple of questions for eTrex users:
-what do you have to buy in order to download good topo maps?
-if you stick the unit in your pocket, do you have to wait for it to acquire satelites again before you will get an accurate point? how long?
-what do you do to get around the previous question?
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i wouldn't consider a barometric altimeter to be 'fluff'.
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I haven't used either but I say that getting a magnetic compass and barometric altimeter for $50 is worth it. That way you don't have to carry those two items separately (assuming they work well on the eTrex), which reduces weight and cluster.
I assume they also have time functions and alarm...? That would be nice.
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Cafe Vivace is hands down the best espresso/latte I have ever had. I go back there every time I am in Seattle. There is one (best) on Broadway and another (good) across from REI.
In Leavenworth, the best coffee is at Starbucks, sorry all you starbucks haters. I actually think they have great drip, and the espresso is standard Starbucks. I've heard good things about the drip at O'Grady's Pantry (at Sleeping Lady), but their espresso sucks.
There is no good place to get coffee/espresso in Twisp (I have tried them all). The Rocking Horse in Winthrop is great, as is the bakery in Pateros.
Never trust an espresso joint that doesn't have whole milk!
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ibid what rat said.
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yeah, i second what everyone else said!
Pic #2 is da shit! Kudos to you guys.
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Holy shit those are cool! Number 3! And 4!
for 5$ i can take magical substances that allow me to see the same things
What would happen if you took the 'magical substances' and then looked at those photos? Huh? What would you see? Crazy shit...
'Magical substances' are aid, anyway.
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yeah, 'scammed,' and it would be 'SCAMMER'
So, is it true? Wha' happened?
'almost' so you actually weren't...?
Make Grivel Cascade Picks Fabulous?
in The Gear Critic
Posted
I would start by filing off the bottom of the first tooth. Have you done that? If not, what did you do to modify it?