[The 50 best climbs at Index]

I don't think there are 50 different routes at Index I can climb.

[Expedition/cold weather clothing. NWT & nearly new]

OR Maestro hooded, baffled, 800 down filled parka with Epic WP/B shell $175 (MSRP is $375)

Mens's Medium

Never worn, NWT

 

Patagonia R2 fleece sweater $35

Men's medium

Good condition, no holes/tears, no funk

Photos available here:

 

Black Diamond Ice climbing gloves $20 or FREE with other purchase

Men's medium, black

Gore-Tex shell with removable fleece liner

Good condition

 

http://www.summitpost.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?t=69824

 

Buyer pays shipping/PayPal fees

If interested, please contact Daniel-p-smith@hotmail.com

[FS: Cold weather and expedition quality clothes]

Patagonia R2 fleece sweater $35

Men's medium

Good condition, no holes/tears, no funk

 

Ice Breakers GT 200 zip-tee $35

Men's large (fits like a medium)

Worn once or twice, no holes/runs, no funk

 

Ice Breakers 200 long johns $35

Men's large (fits like a medium)

Worn once or twice, no holes/runs, no funk

 

Buyer pays shipping/PayPal fees

If interested, please contact Daniel-p-smith@hotmail.com

[Shuksan North Face advice]

I really didn't mean to be a buzz kill, I'm happy I came up with one quite good possibility.

[Shuksan North Face advice]

Here is a thought: NE Face of Eldorado. It is a moderate, technical ice climb in late season ~ AI 2. Somewhat contrived but genuine, actual ice climbing that may be in good shape in mid August this year. Here are some photos taken in late summer 10 years ago: http://www.math.wsu.edu/faculty/bkrishna/TripPages/EldoNEFace.html

[Shuksan North Face advice]

Bummer, next year then!

 

Aside from Shuksan NF, I've been looking at these:

South Early Winters Spire – SW couloir

Eldorado Peak - E ridge

Mt Buckner - NF

Mt Stuart - Ice Cliff Glacier

 

 

South Early Winters Spire - SW Couloir will definitely be out, like just a crappy, loose, rocky gulley.

 

Eldorado - E Ridge will be certainly be doable and is scenic but not technical. Similar in difficulty to Ruth-Icy.

 

NF Buckner - NF. Likely out by mid August this year and you would have to cross the Boston Glacier which is a big, active, crevassed glacier.

 

Mt Sutart - Ice Cliff Glacier. I suspect it will be out of condition by August. A bergschrund often forms that spans the entire width of the glacier and the gulley exit will likely be dry (loose, crappy rock).

[[TR] Mount Blum - North Ridge 6/28/2015]

The weather was hot but at least it was humid.

[Rainier ascent record attempt]

You should talk with ultra runner from Seattle - Uli Steidl, google for his blog or feats of endurance; I believe he's done The Mountain.

He has.

[Shuksan (Fisher Chimneys) conditions?]

Thanks, makes sense now. Forgot to ask...is there any running water above the chimneys?

Every time I have been there, there is reliable running water coming off the Upper Curtis glacier right next to the wonderful bivi sites above Winnie's Slide.

[Shuksan North Face advice]

Ruth-Icy is not a technical ice climb, more of a very scenic high alpine tour/glacier traverse with a bit of rock climbing thrown in to summit Icy Peak.

 

I suspect if NF Shuksan is already melted out then most of the techy alpine ice routes you would be potentially interested in will also be out of shape by August.

[Shuksan North Face advice]

I suspect there will be exposed ice on the North Face in August, especially this year. I would definitely bring a pair of tools. I fell into a hidden slot on the NF, not sure what month that was though. The approach if done properly is not bad, if you botch it, well, expect some misery. The descent down the Fisher Chimneys is no gimme as far as descent routes go.

 

NF Shuksan is a prototypical Cascades climb, it is not the technical aspect that is the hard part, it is the whole ball of wax. I would not recommend it as a first climb in the range.

 

A climb in the same vicinity that I think you would dig is the Ruth-Icy Traverse. There are crevasses though, but I think you kind of have to take extra effort to fall into them.

[Does your undewear stink?]

Then maybe you should invest in some high quality merino undies. Lucky for you I am selling some:

 

Ice Breakers GT 200 zip-tee shirt $35

This is a mid-weight fabric

Men's large (fits like a medium)

Worn once or twice, no holes/runs, perfect condition

 

Ice Breakers 200 long johns bottoms $35

This is a mid-weight fabric

Men's large (fits like a medium)

Worn once or twice, no holes/runs, perfect condition

 

Patagonia approach shoes $10

Men's US size 9

Vegan 'leather' uppers

Recycled Vibram soles

Worn, but with lots of life left

 

Patagonia R2 fleece sweater $35

Men's medium

Good condition, no holes/tears

Link to photos: http://www.summitpost.org/phpBB3/post978276.html#p978276

 

Buyer pays shipping/PayPal fees

If interested, please contact Daniel-p-smith@hotmail.com

[FS: Ice Breakers and Patagonia clothing]

Bump. Buy my stuff!

[FS: Ice Breakers and Patagonia clothing]

Patagonia R2 fleece sweater $35

Men's medium

Good condition, no holes/tears

 

Ice Breakers GT 200 zip-tee $35

Men's large (fits like a medium)

Worn once or twice, no holes/runs

 

 

Ice Breakers 200 long johns $35

Men's large (fits like a medium)

Worn once or twice, no holes/runs

 

Patagonia approach shoes $10

Men's US size 9

Vegan 'leather' uppers

Recycled Vibram soles

Worn, but with lots of life left

 

Link to photos: http://www.summitpost.org/phpBB3/post978276.html#p978276

 

Buyer pays shipping/PayPal fees

If interested, please contact Daniel-p-smith@hotmail.com

[[TR] Bonanza - Mary Green Glacier 7/3/2015]

I tried Googling 'Mary Green' to learn who the glacier was named for, but I ended up at a web site selling ladies underwear. Anybody know who Mary Green was?

[Seattle Area - Aid Practice (Solo or otherwise)]

Index, single pitch stuff like City Park and Iron Horse, and other steep, thin cracks that don't get freed too often. Then maybe some upper town wall stuff like Town Crier and Green Dragon.

[[TR] Johannesburg Mountain - 1951 NE Buttress 6/28/2015]

Pretty sure this is my last time up there.

 

I recall seeing your name in the register an unreasonable number of times. You must be a glutton for punishment.

[2 person glacier travel]

I set up the second rope for the rescue and the original rope was so stuck that we had to cut it.

 

 

..ha! hadn't thought about how wedged that knot would get in there. Difference between textbook/backyard practice and reality is stark!

The only anchors that would work were picketed skis, not sure that one is taught in FOTH.

[2 person glacier travel]

OK, so about the butterflies-- I understand they can assist with slowing the rope down as it drags over the lip of the crevasse, but then wouldn't those knots prevent you from prusiking up the rope, and also make a z-pulley impossible? I suppose then if you used butterfly knots you would have to have a second rope, right?

The butterfly knot actually jams in the grove created by the rope sawing into the crevasse list. Realistically, you will need to carry enough rope in the rescue coils to throw down an anchored, padded rope to the climber in the crevasse or carry a second rope. This will allow you to either perform a C x Z hauling system or to allow the climber to Prusik the rope. In one situation in the Ruth Gorge, I was carrying the second rope when my partner went into a crevasse. His weight never came onto me as the butterfly knot jammed into the lip. I set up the second rope for the rescue and the original rope was so stuck that we had to cut it.

[Fitting mountaineering boots]

Mountaineering boots should not be too tight or too loose. They should fit snugly at the heel with no heel lift and have enough room in the toe to repeatedly kick a stair riser without banging your toes. You should try on boots with the socks you plan on wearing (thick mountaineering socks). If you experience any toe bang in the store, it will only get much worse while step kicking, front pointing, and descending.

[YOUR go-to anchor for summer crevasse rescue PNW]

What Gene said.

[Rainier ascent record attempt]

The best conditions I have experienced for a speed ascent on the DC were in mid September following an early season snow storm. The crevasses were all wide open and the icy spots were covered in perfect neve' and all the ladders were still in place. I think soloing earlier in the season is more dangerous as snow bridges of undetermined strength exist.

[Rainier ascent record attempt]

I'm mainly interested in the "running" ascent record and not the overall round trip record which seems to be locked up by the skiers.

From what I've read, runners are faster on the ascent and skiers make up the difference on the descent. I think the ski record came though Muir at 90 minutes, whereas the runners come through around 60. I also think most running ascents are done later in the season when the crevasses are open and obvious and the only reason the current record was done early was because they were on skis and wanted snow coverage.

 

 

[Rainier ascent record attempt]

I am surprised at the restraint demonstrated by the cc.com collective.

[FS: Rock pro]

Bump - still available.