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DPS

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Posts posted by DPS

    Low volume ice boot?

    in The Gear Critic

    Posted · Edited by DPS

    From a man who knows:

     

    http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2012/04/la-sportiva-batura-20.html

     

    http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2013/07/la-sportiva-nepal-cube.html

     

    From my own experience owning two models of La Sportiva mountaineering/ice climbing boots, three pairs of La Sportiva approach shoes, and perhaps a dozen pairs of rock shoes:

     

    La Sportiva seems to be the most innovative foot wear manufacturer. They come out with a fairly revolutionary designs, and the other manufactures follow suit the next year.

     

    La Sportiva is top notch quality. Only two models that I owned had durability issues, and they were fixed in the next generation (First generation Kaukulators, first generation Trango Ice Extreme).

     

    I put up with the too narrow fit for years until I reached the age of 40 when my feet got even wider. I sold all my remaining LS foot wear and went with Scarpa, which I find to be every bit as well constructed and performant as LS. And they fit my feet perfectly. I wish I could fit into LS, those new Cube models are dead sexy.

    Washington in October--suggestions?

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    Thanks guys; I appreciate the advice.

     

    So, I did get a Stuart Lake permit for the entire 5 day period. I realize that's a ways from the Core Enchantments. Advice?

     

     

    Thanks!

     

    I think rock routes would be where it is at

    North Ride, Stuart

    Ice Cliff Arete, Mt Stuart

    West Ridge, Sherpa (would require climbing Stuart first)

    Descents could be involved affairs.

    Something on Argonayt

    Washington in October--suggestions?

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    If the weather is good, then alpine rock is where it is at. NE Buttress of Colchuck, North or WEst Ridge or Ice Cliff Arete of Stuart, something on Prusik Peak, North or West Ridge of Sherpa.

     

    Washington Pass could be great too. NW Corner on NEWS, East Buttress Direct or SW Buttress of SEWS, Beckey Route on Liberty Bell, all the wine spires, Kangaroo Ridge area...

    Boot outsole coming off...how to repair?

    in The Gear Critic

    Posted

    1. Remove all residue and dirt from both surfaces with a stiff brush. An appropriate solvent may be necessary to remove the glue residue.

     

    2. Apply Barge cement to both surfaces until tacky.

     

    3. Adhere sole to boot, using some method to apply even pressure during the drying process. Cobblers use a press to do this, you might be able to rig up some bungees or something.

    Mt Stuart West Ridge question

    in Alpine Lakes

    Posted

    I'm planning on heading to Mt Stuart West Ridge this weekend. I've climbed it once by what I suppose is the standard route, where you traverse on ledges on the south side to reach the last 2 pitches below the summit after the north side traverse.

     

    I have heard that, instead, you can just head straight up the ridge after the north side traverse, and it never gets above 5.6, which sounds much more fun. Can anyone confirm if that's true?

     

    If this is the variation I am thinking of, then Juan Sharp and JasonG climbed it. They reported difficulties significantly harder than 5.6, but maybe theirs was a different variation. Here is what Juan wrote specifically about it: "The way that Jason and I took for the first of the two summit block pitches was an ugly grunt"

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