JasonG
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Posts
5275 -
Joined
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Days Won
352
Posts posted by JasonG
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name change
in Spray
Must be the Christmas spirit around here, name changes abound . . .
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name change
in Spray
I think it can be done, see if DPS can tell you how. I seem to recall a time in the not so distant past when DPS when by his full name on this here board. Might involve
Good luck, I've wondered about this as well. Don't worry Phil, I just thought the all caps conferred that you meant business!
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I'm glad that blob has a name. I was mighty disappointed when I climbed the Throne years ago and found out I wasn't on the summit of Storm King. We didn't have a route description, and I don't think a map either (I guess the map is wrong anyways). We had bailed from an attempt in the NE ridge of Goode (T-storms) and decided to head up to the G-SK col and try our luck on Storm King. Going up the col REALLY sucked. Everything was dangerously loose . . . I was glad to belay from a sheltered nook as rock (and curses) rained from above. Only one of us led it (thanks Doug!), and a rope was trailed for everyone else.
I guess I will make it back one of these years for the true summit, but it is a long haul any way you cut it . ..
Thanks for the background and photos Paul.
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i hope it will be like the dwight watson archive housed online at uw....good news!
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email sent, thanks Off_White! While I haven't had the chance to climb in the park yet, I sure hope to someday. It would really be a shame if access was closed before I had a chance to visit . ..
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March and September have especially nice photos .. .
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Riding over a dead whale with Xtra tuffs, classic!! Gotta be in AK . . .
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...and you gotta love the fact that he was near the summit pyramid, with the guard still on the adze!
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Nice work on finishing the list after 25 years!
Seriously, that was some funny stuff. I don't think the Bulgers knew what hit them . . I was especially wondering what guys like Joe Firey and Dee Molenaar were thinking through the movies. I know Fred was into it, I think the explosions woke him up.
I will add you to our heshing contact list, I think you may be able to teach us a thing or two. I was looking for you after the presentations but, alas, you had already split.
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Well, it is falling out anyway (darn kids), so I decided I might as well get used to having less hair.
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Many thanks to Chris Weidner, who recently wrote an excellent piece on Dallas for a Boulder, CO newspaper: http://www.dailycamera.com/recreation-columnists/ci_16440528
Well said.
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Yowza. If the ice had fallen earlier in the day, would you have been wiped out? I've never liked the look of that left side route on the headwall, the right side was spicy enough for me . .. nice work though.
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Dallas on one of his many winter ascents of Sauk Mountain.
Hi all-
Those who were close to Dallas have set up a fund to help defray the cost of a memorial installation (design and type TBD) on Mt. Erie. If you would like to contribute here are the details:
Send donations to:
Anacortes Parks Foundation
PO Box 1902
Anacortes, WA 98221
It is important that " Dallas Kloke Memorial" be put in the memo field on the check, or a note included mentioning that this is for the Dallas Memorial.
Thanks everyone!
P.S. If the moderators could make this sticky for a while, that would be great.
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Thanks for the history lesson Matt, good stuff! And thanks for the bit of beta on the last pitch . . .
I can't wait to go back to back and try some of the other routes Curt pointed out in the area. As Mark pointed out, I hope the winter is relatively kind to the road . . .
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I should have made it more plain that this is really, really good route- four stars!
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Thanks to all who attended the memorial service yesterday, I know I came away with a much better appreciation for the force of nature that was known as Dallas Kloke.
My personal favorite Dallas quote related at the service: A climbing partner once asked him what his secret to climbing longevity (50 yrs!) was....... "You either got it, or you don't."
Here's to you Dallas, I hope I got it!
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Trip: Darrington- 3 O'Clock Rock - Total Soul
Date: 10/13/2010
Trip Report:
I just wanted to put another TR plug into the database for Darrington and specifically the Total Soul route on 3OCR. MattP, Dave Whitelaw, Don Brooks, Mark Hanna, and many others are to be commended for their tireless work in support of Darrington Climbing. Between new routing, and advocating for continued FS road maintenance, their efforts over the years are much appreciated. The area can handle a lot more traffic than it now receives, so I hope everyone reading this goes out and climbs a route in D-town soon (and writes the FS in support of access)!
OK, here's our story: Tired of the unrelenting weekend rains of September, Curt contacted me last week to see if I could get away on a midweek climbing jaunt. Being an out-of-shape, off-the-couch, dad type these days, I was a little apprehensive about the length and grade of Curt's first choice- Total Soul (~8p, .10b- I think). I shouldn't have been it turns out- a little finesse and technique go a long way on slabs (It wasn't all without struggle though, I did slip a few times). I think I may be a convert!
Anyway, the climb is really fun and safe with a mixture of bomber bolts and good natural gear- all belays are bolted too. Funnily enough, both Curt and I thought the hardest single couple of moves came on the last short pitch (rated .10a), but the bolts are right there. Kudos to Curt for leading all of the harder pitches, it was a good way to ease me into "D-town slab dancing". Enough blabbing, hear are some photos . .
Curt on the third pitch:
Curt at the end of the "Rubber Soul" pitch I think. This was a sustained and impressive pitch given the history of it.
Nice views abound when climbing the route, here's Exfoliation dome
Gotta love the little touches like this:
And the bomber rap rings:
Midweek, the climb felt as wild as the sign implies. We were the only party on 3OCR that day:
A trip to Darrington isn't complete without a stop at the Shell station. Good people watching, you may spot the yahoos in this photo:
I should add that if anyone is going to climb Total Soul before the snow flies, we forgot Curt's #3 BD camalot clipped to the first belay (the last rap bypasses this station). Beer for anyone returning it to its rightful owner! And while Curt was the rope-gun on this trip, I would be remiss if I didn't point out the kid-gun making the whole thing possible- my understanding wife, who stayed at home with the two wee ones (2 years and 6 months) while I goofed off in the hills. Thanks!
Gear Notes:
two ropes for rappels, pro to 1.5", beer at the Shell Station
Approach Notes:
Maintained trail right to the base of 3OCR. Road is 2WD to Squire Creek Pass TH. Write the Darrington RS in support of keeping this road open (and the spurs)!
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Thanks for the report! A stark and beautiful landscape, I just may have to make my way over to Borah one of these days . . .
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Dallas Kloke
1939-2010
The Kloke family would like to invite all to a celebration of Dallas' life, scheduled for 2:00 pm, Saturday, October 16, 2010 at Anacortes High School (Brodniak Hall). This will be followed by a reception and fellowship in the high school cafeteria.
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Good idea, thanks, I'll do that.
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Bumping this up a bit to remind folks that the memorial is coming up this week.
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Hi all-
The memorial service for Dallas will be held at 2:00pm on Saturday, October 16th - Anacortes High School. All are welcome.
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Thanks for the in depth report on the incident.
http://www.summitpost.org/trip-report/665615/vesper-peak-accident-rescue.html
Bummer. Stay safe out there folks.
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At the request of a few folks, I'm going to post up a bunch more photos of Dallas, not all by me.
Dallas, Brooks, and myself went up Sauk Mountain this past winter:
Gotta love the woolen knickers!
Scott, Dallas and myself did the Kangaroo Temple, Half Moon,and Wallaby link-up last fall:
Dallas climbed Boston Peak this summer with Jill (like J'Berg, he probably had climbed it 7 times or some crazy number), she passed along a few photos:
Some photos from Scott:
Dallas was THE MAN!
[TR] Lake Wenatchee - AK47 12/12/2010
in Central/Eastern Washington
Posted
Must . ..not . .. .