chrisc88
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Posts posted by chrisc88
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4 minutes ago, Steve Roberts said:
Where is the rocky right variation in this photo? to the right of the climbers bag?
I believe that it is just what is typically referred to as the “right variation”.
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Climbed the North Ridge on June 3rd. Conditions are pretty cruiser to the summit. Gaining the ridge is particularly easy, basically stairs. The right ice variation is abnormally rocky right now, I wouldn't believe it if I didn't see it myself in person.
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Very cool!
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Trip: Mt Hood - Reid Headwall
Trip Date: 05/11/2019
Trip Report:For the detailed version, check out the post on my blog.
Simulclimbed up the Reid Headwall Left Variation (Mullee 8a) on May 11th, 2019. The climbing was mostly in good neve snow, with a lone ice section. Lots of falling debris, and a very large rhyme pinnace becoming detached at the base of the final snow/rhyme field. Probably the last Hood climb I'll do until 2020.
Gear Notes:
3 pickets, 1 screw needed, 50m rope (would have gone with a 30m if we knew the conditions beforehand)
Approach Notes:
The Southside is still the Southside
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7 hours ago, psistrom said:
Curious why you chose to downclimb the Eliot. Was Cooper Spur too avalanch-prone?
Nothing that exciting haha. We ditched our poles close to the bottom of the North Face and figured that would be the quickest way to retrieve them. In hindsight it would probably have been easier to just pack them.
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Trip: Mt Hood - North Face
Trip Date: 05/01/2019
Trip Report:For the detailed version, check out the post on my blog.
Went up the North Face Right Hand Gully on May 1st, 2019. The climbing was in great conditions. The shrund is definitely opening up and may become more complicated to cross over the next few days. The right gully fully goes all the way to the summit without any significant difficulties. The two ice pitches are in fat/easy condition.
Get at it!
Gear Notes:
Alpine ice climbing gear
Approach Notes:
Tilly Jane trail in good condition!
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Fellow climbers! Has anybody recently got on the Kautz route on Rainier? I climbed the Fuhrer Finger a couple weeks ago, and on our way up, there were plenty of folks who were shooting for the Kautz coming down because they heard that it was no good. I also heard from several IMG guides that it was no good. Unfortunately, none of these people had actually seen the would-be uncrossable obstacle in person.
I did give the rangers a phone call asking about conditions, and they said that things were normal up there though. I'm yet to see a trip report here or a route tick on Mountain Project, so I am not quite sure what to believe..
Any good info would be much appreciated! I'm hoping to go up there this upcoming weekend.
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Very awesome!!
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Very awesome!!
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I'm always up for climbing, especially when weather windows open up during the winter! I also live in Seattle (98101) so would be down to meet up.
Goals are pretty similar to yours. I've already climbed the Kautz, but would love to do it again.
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I'm always up for climbing our volcanos. Let's keep an eye on the weather!
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Shasta is in!!
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Looks like somebody posted a Monitor Ridge TR 12 days ago:
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Awesome! Thanks for the conditions update.
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Have you thought of St Helens? It is a fun climb with a lot of cool history and geology with essentially no objective hazards. You can catch it in snowy conditions to practice glacier travel skills without any dangers of an actual glacier. Plus, it's got a nice "big mountain feel".
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Thanks for the info! It sounds like it melted out a lot since I was on it a couple months ago.
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Hi all, I was wondering if anybody has been on the South Side/Pearly Gates route of Hood over the last few days. I'm thinking about soloing it on next weekend (7/30), but I also don't want to fall into a crevasse and die.
Thanks!
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I just climbed the route a few days ago, and there were a few sections that were pretty iced over and brittle. I used a hybrid axe and a shorter more aggressive hybrid tool. I can see a situation where this route would be a one-axe route, but unless you are really really confident in one tool climbing, the route was clearly not in condition for that when I was on it.
This wouldn't be my first choice of an ice route if you don't have anybody on the team who is experienced with ice before.
[TR] Mount Baker - North Ridge 6/3/19
in North Cascades
Posted
July is a safe bet for the route. The Coleman Glacier is still in great shape and very easy to navigate at the moment. As mentioned earlier, it seems like we are a few weeks ahead.