pnwdevin

Snowpack is real deep in the Olympics this year. Last I heard some parties were encountering difficulties on a large cornice at the top of the south couloir. Don't know what the status of that cornice is.

Awesome. Thanks for the recommendation!

Last season I got stuck about 19 miles down the road because of a fallen tree. I was lucky enough to have a recently retired climbing rope that I was able to attach to my Subaru and pull the tree out of the way with. Definitely bring a chainsaw up there.

Winter ascents of higher elevation peaks can be serious. Careful planning and consideration should be exercised.

175

170!

I climbed the route in May 2015 and also felt the flake flex under body weight. Recall talking to a climber who climbed the route last fall and also said that the flake flexed. Seems to me that this has been the situation for a good amount of time.

While descending the west ridge, I forgot to tell my follower to clean 2 cams that were subsequently left on route. I left a .3 c4 and a red c3 atop the second tower pitch. They are right next to the rappel slings side by side in a horizontal crack. If anyone happens to find them, they can either keep them, or return them to me for some beer of their choice and a big thank you!

Thanks man. I'll have to consider a ski ascent/descent of eldorado sometime soon then!

With the utter lack of snow this year, I was considering an attempt of Sahale. Anyone been up cascade river road lately? I would imagine that the road might be open all the way due to no snow. Thanks

Climbed alpental on thursday. Lots of running water underneath the ice with very thin friable conditions. No reliable ice protection to be found on any of the flows.

pm me description if they are yours

Coleman Deming Would be a good option. Here is a TR from summitpost from a couple years back during september. http://www.summitpost.org/mt-baker-coleman-deming-glacier/470492

very scary! crazy the rockfall was directly onto the route and not climber induced.

Thanks for the beta! I will give either West Ridge or East Direct. I try and put out a trip report.