ChrisFreye

Cross post from mountain project. https://www.mountainproject.com/v/fs-arcteryx-beta-sl--scarpa-rebel-pro-gtx/111646801 Shoot me a message if you're interested.

I thought I would try my luck on the interweb again since it worked out so awesome last time. I am looking for a long term climbing partner as my current one just underwent major shoulder surgery and is out of the game for a while. I'm a 24 year old dude working on my phd in chemistry at University of Washington. I have been rock climbing for several years now and lead up to 5.10a on trad, 5.11c on sport. I also lead ice up to WI3+ but have not been doing it that long. I really want to get out on the volcanoes here in the near future. My goals are liberty ridge, coleman headwall, north ridge on Hood, and Adams glacier. But I am really down to climb anything. Would kill to get on Nisqually icefall here since the weather has been so good lately. Shoot me something and we will see if we gel as climbing partners. Also a decent skier if anyone is looking to tour. Snow sucks right now but I would still enjoy getting out even to the Muir snowfield.

Are there any good climbs to do this time of year in the enchantments. I'm thinking about heading up there this weekend as well.

I'm at work so no pics but I can tell you that it is super narrow. It is only one foot wide at one point where is slopes a little bit and then drops straight down with a thousand foot drop on either side. It was super solid when I walked across but slightly unerving as the exposure was pretty high.

Trip: Mt Hood - South Side Date: 7/5/2014 Trip Report: Just wanted to post a conditions update for people interested in Hood. The snow softens super early in the day so it is best to start super early. Around midnight would probably be the best. The upper section (Old Chute) is super kicked in. It's probably not necessary to bring an extra axe. Be careful in the Crater itself. The fumeroles are getting really undercut and it possible to walk into one without even noticing it. I was on the summit around 5:30 and headed back down through the crater at 6:00. I honestly don't think I would have wanted to come down any later. There were ominous sounds coming from Steel Cliffs from the sound of rock fall and ice fall. The moment the sun came up the snow softened alot. Nice skiing exists below West Crater Rock. You can ski all the way to the timberline if you want.

I just did South Side this past weekend on the 4th of July. No snow on trail until about an hour in. Easy trail to follow all the way to the summit. There is still quite a bit of snow but it would be easy to find a dry campsite at Lunch Counter if you want. I had the summit to myself because I started to early. Prime skiing conditions exist if you wait around for the snow to soften up a bit.

I should also add probably that I going for a marathon climb this weekend (3 volcanoes, 3 days). Baker should be the last one (if I make it) so I am going to be pretty tired at that point. So I will definitely be slow moving.

I was thinking the Coleman-Deming as well but the giant shrund crossing has me a bit nervous. It is a shorter route overall from parking lot to summit. However, last summer I had to go around the shrund in late June and it was effin huge. I can only imagine what I might encounter on it this year. Only way to cross it was to go near the roman wall and there was an obvious debris field of ice boulders from the cliff above. Needless to say we scrambled pretty fast through there. I've been on the Easton from early june until early August and the route didn't change that much over those months and the crevasses did get bigger in the middle of the glacier but not really near the route itself except at the very top near the saddle between Sherman and Baker

If you were going to solo Baker what route would you do it by. Putting everything else aside such as length and time to summit, what do you think the safest route is. I done many a route on Baker and I was thinking the Easton since the route is always in a similar position and there isn't a large change of rock or icefall and the crevasses can be easily navigated. Thoughts?

Okay so the short version... I need a climbing partner for the weekend since everyone else has bailed. I'm free from July 3rd to 7th. Hit me up for any of those dates. Okay long version... I can't seem to find a consistent partner anywhere for this summer. I would like to get out and climb in the alpine world this weekend. If we click maybe we shall have more adventures together. As long as you have a brain and are safe we should be set. So if you want to slog across glaciers... cool. If you want to climb technical ice/snow routes...cool. If you want to boulder... go somewhere else.

Looking at getting on some glacier stuff. PM sent

Well if everyone is saying about 90 mm then how about the Voile Vector. Very similar to the BD aspect but about a pound lighter. I cant afford to buy dynafit skis as they are almost double BD and Voile prices. I also hear that they are less durable.

I am looking to get into ski mountaineering on the volcanoes and touring on the east side of Mt. Baker

So I am just getting into backcountry skiing and there are way to many options to choose from but I think I have narrowed it down a bit. I was wondering if some people on CC could help point me in the right direction. So I'm pretty sure I've figured out my boots to be the Scarpa Maelstrale RS. (I have really wide feet) I'm also going to get some tech bindings like Dynafit Radical. Choosing skis is were the problem comes to light. I wandered down to REI and one of the people there suggested the Voile Charger. I know it all depends on conditions such as spring corn on the volcanoes and winter touring conditions. Can anyone suggest a good all around ski or a pair of skis (one for spring on the volcanoes and a second for winter touring). Thanks in advance.

So... I have read a lot of stories about people running into issues on Liberty Ridge. Most of them have been people going up when the weather window is not appropriate for a summit push. Also some people have had to be rescued due to inexperience. I don't want to fall into either situation. I was wondering if people on cc.com had some suggestions about what routes to do in order to prepare for Liberty Ridge. I dirt-bagged this past summer and a lot people I ran into warned me about the dangers which I am fully aware of but when I asked for good routes to train for Liberty Ridge they didn't have any suggestions. (Makes me wonder if they even did it) So I was wondering if people had any suggestions on what routes would be a good precursor to Liberty Ridge. I've included some climbs that I have done that seem to be in line with training for Liberty Ridge: North Ridge of Baker Price Glacier on Shuksan Kautz Glacier on Rainier Reid HW on Hood I am also trying to do Coleman HW before if possible. Any suggestions are welcome (well almost any)