psathyrella
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Posts posted by psathyrella
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Looking for climbing partners in chamonix apr 18 to may 13. My main priority on this trip is mileage on mixed terrain, but I can be flexible. I lead about td+/ed-.
dkralph aatt gmail
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Not particular at all about dimensions or condition, but preferably under 900g.
thanks.
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windguru lets you compare three models: 27km GFS, 4km HRW, and 12km NAM. They also do a sane, documented, high resolution altitude extrapolation.
The site is ostensibly for wind surfers and their ilk, but with a ($20/year) paid account you can add your own custom spots (for example pigeon-howser col in the link above). But you don't need a paid account to view everybody's spots, so the more of us that join and add mountain-oriented spots, the more useful it becomes. Also, the dude that runs it is responsive and actively developing.
mountain-forecast.com seems to pretty much be garbage. Probably the easiest way to see this is to watch how frequently they'll tell you a clear day above 2000m has a difference of only a couple degrees between the high and the low. They also don't seem to have any documentation as to what model they're using and what adjustments they make, which doesn't improve confidence.
The best single model hereabouts is probably the uw wrf, which (depending on the resolution) does extend as far as the columbia mountains, but their public interface is comically unusable. It would be easy to code up a more digestible version, but their funders require them to not make anything except those crazy gifs publicly available. Which seems a little weird given that pretty much all of the listed funders are public agencies, sigh.
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I lead .10, follow .11.
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Looking for a partner for mon-tues after my buddy leaves. I os about .10- on gear, follow .11-
contact: dkralph at the kind of mail with the gmail, seven oh seven 601 seven 3 five 7
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PM with brands and colors to claim.
p.s. I hope you didn't fall into that hole that it looked like you fell into.
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As seen here.
Nine issues of (very) British hilarity. It's like reading twenty-year-old Economists about the mountains. $45, plus shipping or pick up in Seattle.
I thought the best bits were:
- firsthand account of first alpine-style ascent of cerro chalten
- *#*#ing hilarious account of early British repeat of tis-sa-sack (sp?)
- much bolt-related hand-wringery
- wildly trashy/gossipy/implausible beckey profile
- mike bearzi (ffa of cerro torre) defends[ish] maestri
- many many many pages about whether tomo cesen did or tomo cesen didn't
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Local pickup at SBP or South Lake Union only, sorry.
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I've probably put 20 days on them, but there's no structural problems whatsoever. I'm just finally admitting that they do not fit my feet. Crampon welts are in perfect shape and soles have many, many years left.
The small velcro patches you can see on the back allow you to use trail running style gaiters, but they're easy to just pull off if you don't like 'em.
And sorry, I'm not quite masochistic enough to use the photo uploader, so you'll have to make do with a link to MP.
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And a little reciprocity...
Tippy top of Torment:
Coming up on Columbia crest:
Canonical tilted forbidden:
Thy name is desire:
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Looking for a partner for the Rexford group this weekend. I'm most interested in the SW ridge of N spire, or if the snow's come off the N sides, the enchainment.
Duncan (6017357 in the area code of seven oh seven)
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Yeah, you can totally customize the locations. You'll just need to clone the repository so you can run it on your local machine, and then edit the text file with the location list. This'll hopefully only involve a little bit of googling if you haven't done that kind of thing before.
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If anyone else is tired of clicking through to all the noaa point forecasts from lost in the mountains, you might like this [github.io].
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please see pictures on MP cross post: http://mountainproject.com/v/splitboard-elios-hirundos-snow-sundries/109630138
full splitboard setup: gnu board, skins, bindings, crampons $600
petzl hirundos (new, but see caveat) $50
petzl elios $30
ski/snowboard pants (men's medium) $25
OR Crocodile gaiters (XL) $25
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Hey folks,
Been in Seattle a couple of months, and I need some more cragging and mountain partners. I lead 5.9 trad, am well versed in glacier travel, and I'm competent on moderate ice. I love cragging, but am mainly motivated by the alpine.
I mostly work weekdays, but can easily swap out weekends for weekdays when the weather gods demand.
PM me, or use dkralph at the googly-type mail.
Duncan
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Ok, thanks for the suggestion. The washer that's in there is just textured with no springiness, so I'll try a lock washer as well.
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I've been using a sumtec for vertical ice and finding that ten or twenty placements is enough to loosen the pick enough that it's pretty much unusable even if I've just cranked the screw pretty tight. I need to buy some loctite which will help some, but I wonder if anyone else has had this problem? The attachment mechanism is hard to describe -- three rounded bumps hold the pick to the head -- but in all honesty it seems a bit jenky for this sort of thing.
Graybeard Nordwand, early winter.... this winter.
in North Cascades
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