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zoltani

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Everything posted by zoltani

  1. Eh, I have a poor memory for runouts anyway, they are always best forgotten about.
  2. Anyone know the state of the anchors on this thing? I read a report of the anchor on the last pitch being bad, is that correct? Any updates on the conditions would be helpful, really want to do this thing.
  3. Yeah, it is a great route and a fantastic summit. Seems to be getting a lot of love this year. I don't remember any significant runouts though.
  4. Hey Matt, can you list those better protected routes for darrington noobs?
  5. Nice report. We were up there this past weekend as well, and ran into you as you were hiking out. The route is definitely getting some traffic, there was a party of 3 or 4 above us. It is indeed a nice route and is likely to continue to see traffic, I think the word is out! We too spied that ledge from the lower col and thought it might be the route, but looked at the beta again to see it mentioned that the correct col for the ledge traverse is at 5800'. Future parties that want to attempt the route take note, this is the correct col for ledge traverse http://caltopo.com/m/4A52
  6. Would you recommend doing Silent Running or skipping it in favor of another route in the area?
  7. Good thing about Jtree and red rock is that they are only about a 3 hour drive away from each other. You can always travel between them. Honestly, you never know what you are gonna get, i have been frozen in red rock around thanksgiving, and i have been there around christmas in a t shirt sweating balls. Same with Jtree.
  8. That approach to nevermind wall is killer!
  9. Climbed saber on castle rock yesterday 7/6 I placed a #5 black master cam on pitch two. My partner remembers cleaning it but thinks it may have fallen off her harness onto one of the many ledges. It was ridiculously hot and our brains were melting so it may have also simply gotten left on route. It is conveniently unmarked, but should have a black metolius biner on it. Beer or other beverage of choice as reward.
  10. PM sent!
  11. If not doing high altitude or cold weather camping then I like to use an alcohol stove in france. The fuel is available in any grocery or small epicerie in the cleaning section (L'alcool à brûler). Easy to find, super cheap, the stove is easy to fly with.
  12. coors is not a sufficient replacement for jack Was the the snow getting slushy with the warmer weather up there the past week? I was up around new year and the trail was one long sheet of ice.
  13. I am up for some rock if we can get some good weather windows.
  14. Hi all, I've been in the Seattle area for about 2 years now. When I was a teenager I rock climbed quite a bit as part of an outdoors class in my high school. After school though I didn't have people to go with so I pretty much quite climbing regularly, though I have been out here and there throughout the years. Anyway, I've finally decided to get back into climbing so I've been going to vertical world at least 2 times a week for the past couple of months (currently climbing routes up to 5.10c). I'd always climbed outside before, so the gym climbing thing is new to me. A month ago I spent a day climbing in Red Rocks and this reminded me how much I love climbing outside. My goal this year is to get outside and climb more, hopefully finding some experienced people to learn from. I've been acquiring gear so I don't have to be a total gear mooch. Also been practicing knots and building anchors at home. Any recommendations for finding mentors that are willing to do some easier routes to help a newb learn? Looking for someone to give tips, evaluate my fixed anchors, show me a little about trad anchors and placing pro. Would like to learn to second on trad routes. Cheers! Aaron
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