dave schultz

my TR from 2014. The technical skill you describe is certainly adequate, the real challenge is the route finding, and general big-mountain problem set and problem solving. Compared to LR on Rainier, NR of Baker, and NF of Hood - I thought Price Glacier was larger (order(s) of magnitude) and more complicated objective. Technical ice and rock, shitty ice and rock, huge route, NO good beta, route advice, etc ... its truely a big and spectacular route. Very far out there, you'll feel like your on a different planet. I'd 100% do it again, and really enjoyed the mid- to late-season conditions we found in 2014. Enjoy, its a route youll never forget.

Howdy PNW Climbers and Skiers! I was a regular posted back in 2017-2019 when I lived in Everett, but have been in Japan for two years and now in San Diego for about a year. I have a quick road trip window and it looks like I've narrowed down a Ruby Mountain window from 18-20 March (could maybe stay to 21 Mar). 18th looks great, 19th looks like a high wind day, 20th looks great, 21st looks iffy. If you want to meet up there, please let me know, or if you know anyone in the area or around who might be willing to link up. Thanks! Dave 239-two-three-three-2oo2

Congrats on ticking this route - I found it to be very enjoyable a perfect length for a full-value big-day out in the mountains. I'm curious about the dog comment ... any pics? Legalities of bringing dogs up there? Thanks!

also look at montbell. i use theur 30 degree throughout the winter, but have a nunatack quilt for shoulders and summer.

Weather looks less-than-ideal for skiing, so I'm looking for a climbing partner for the weekend: Open to anything, but eyes on something relatively big with favorable weather, albiet a little windy. Stuff in Enchantments, Baker, Shuksan, Hood, Index (?), Pearly Gates (?), Snoqualmie Pass area (NY Gulley, Tooth, Chair, what else?) …. Glacier Peak, in a mega overnight sat-sun trip …. it's probably possible ... I'd prefer to travel on skis, and request the same. If you've got to boot, we can probably make it work depending on the objective. Prefer C2C, but not opposed to an overnight …. Also wiling to go on a big MTB ride … that ride that no one else wants to do …. Thanks, Dave 239-two-three-three-2002

surprise weekend available from work. might have Monday off too. obviously want to get something big. c2c or overnight, both are fine. temps look good, wind looks manageable up high. I've got some ideas, and definitely open for yours. game for rock, alpine, skiing, or MTB. thanks! dave 239-two-three-three-2002

I quiver killer all my skis. they're a stronger attachment, but also make it dangerously easy to add skis and/or bindings to the stable. example: dps skis with g3 touring or kingpin resort bindings. same or different boots. original plan was to balance tech and tele. tele is all but out, but getting the right tech binding is nice. adding skis now only costs the off-season discount and no need for more than one binding; and I always have the best ski for the conditions.

Something can really be said for the right tool for the conditions, and the comfort / speed added in semi- or fully-technical terrain vs. the speed lost in non-technical by carrying two tools AND a non-technical long axe. Sure you can climb North Ridge or Coleman Headwall on Baker w/o two technical tools, but you'll be a lot slower through the technical terrain, and may struggle to even make it up. This could significantly lower the overall safety of the party. I have never regretted carrying two technical tools, even when not truly needed because of the speed and security added when I did need them, even for a short time. A fully functional, non-technical axe also makes travel through the remainder of the terrain safe and fast without needing to utilize a tool where it does not belong. Are you any slower carrying three tools/axes - not really; do you ensure you have the right tool for the job, ensuring confidence and speed and therefore safety - yes. North Ridge, Liberty Ridge, Coleman Headwall (some examples above) - I would whole-heartedly recommend two tools and an axe, you never know what you might have to climb through. I have not done Leutholds or DKH, so cannot comment at all (except Leutholds is a relatively benign ski descent, I think ...). I am not advocating two tools on everything, but simply giving another perspective that has worked well for me.

Trip: Johannesburg - NE Rib 1957 Trip Date: 13-14 October 2018 Trip Report: started 715 Sat AM from the parking lot. took the lowest start posible, scrambling a few hundred feet before a 100m roped pitch into the trees. lots of unroped climbing before realizing we were too far right. we did another roped pitch thinking we'd be out - wrong. a single 30m rappel down and skiers right put us back in business. a long stretch of unroped climbing into a gullet. roped back up for a few of the moves and that deposited up on the main ridge's shoulder. this was the large climbers right trend in the topos. lots of steep vegetated climbing and steep exposed climbing brought us to a short (10m) knife edge ridge crossing - officially out of the shit. this is where you could drop into the gulley to climb up to the bivy or stay on the rope. gulley obviously looked nasty in October. we scrambled another short distance to where we needed a rope. either the ugly offwidth or the steep face up and right. not entirely sure if the face is what others had chosen, but it's what we opted for. it was a little hard down low, but opened up nicely. we hauled packs on this particular pitch. from that beltway we were a 150m pitch then a 45m pitch to the bivy site. arrived around 530pm - just under 10 hrs on the route. no running water for us, so we went ultraconservative with fuel only melting water and saving some fuel just in case. we were treated with an awesome sunset and sunrise. we were nestled between the snow and the rock and stayed protected from the wind. next morning we were moving by 745am and summited around 920am. glacier was very simple all things considered. snow arete was very cool and truly unique. started to descent around 10am, opting to downclimb vs rappel. some serious exposure on sometimes pretty delicate climbing. we were pretty close to the top, only dropping to maybe 100 feet below occasionally and not for very long. we reached the main descent around noon. on the main descent we made one anchor for a belayed downclimb relatively high up, then lots of downclimbing snow and rock until an obvious rappel station. this was a real rope stretcher (full 30m) to a subtle ledge skiers left of running water, we loaded about 1.5 liters knowing we'd get more soon - it was euphoric to get nice cold water. more snow and rock brought us to a second obvious station, going skiers left. another 30m with some downclimbing and we were onto a broad apron. traversing skiers left, going more directly to C-J Col, we found three more rap stations, plus a lot of downclimbing. we reached the col around 230pm. we were moving quite slow. after quickly adjusting layers we were off to Doug's direct and searching for water. we were at the top around 5pm and made fast work down to the 6k foot level. here is where were made our only route finding mistakes: dropping too low too early twice. this cost us probably a at least an hour. we then got back on track and were to cascade pass by 8pm and the TH by 930pm. all in all, full value route that was surprisingly straightforward. I'd do it again. Gear Notes: single rack to 3in was nice to have, 60m rope was shortest we would have wanted Approach Notes: short, or long, depending on your perspective

jude - partner found, sry. good luck getting out there, shuksan is well worth it.

Weather looks awesome this weekend. Anything from above still on the table. Stoked on your off-the-beaten path ideas as well. I can leave by early afternoon on Friday. Thanks! Dave

no real point to my comment other than to put it in slight perspective. The ship that I work on will go out to sea for a normal military deployment and burn about 5 million gallons of diesel fuel, plus maybe a half million gallons of jet fuel … I guess we should also stop military operations ... if you average 15k miles per year and 25 mpg in your car … that's over 7500 years worth of fuel ... flame away folks … PS: the skiing and trail running this past weekend was awesome; but I burned more than 6 gallons, sry.

BUMP. Looking for a partner for this weekend ... not many left before the military moves me again ... Thanks! Dave

Looking to get out this weekend and have a few ideas, but open to anything: 1. Trail running the Wonderland in a single push. My wife can provide support at the road intersections. 2. Prusik. C2C or overnight, open to either. 3. Washington Pass. May be too cold. 4. Rainier. Nisqually or Mowich: something off the beaten path. 5. Baker. Coleman Headwall. 6. Shuksan. North Face. 7. Index. 8. Darrington. 9. Skiing ... anything? 10. Another long distance, semi-crazy trail run? 11. Any long distance (30+ miles) mountain biking... Let me know if your interested and let's do it! Thanks! Dave daveschultz125(at)gmail(dot)com 239-two-three-three-2002

details and its yours

details and its yours

bump. looking for sleese partner for Monday. c2c. 239-two-three-three-2002

looking for anybody doing anything fun. prefer longer, complicated routes up to 5.10. c2c best, but overnights work too. I'd love to join someone's group or come up with some ideas for the weekend! thanks dave 239-two-three-three-2002

I can do a half-ish day at index on Sat. Probbaly there around noon, can stay until dark. lot's of alpine experience, haven't been cragging since October. 239-two-three-three-2002

maybe just a little too vague ...

bump. wx is looking mighty fine ...

I've got the week off from work and looking to make it big. I can head to the Bugaboos, fly to Waddington, or just stay local. I can join your group or we can make our own. I'm good to 5.10+ or 5.11- depending on the style, am open for long days or easy cragging. The bigger and/or more obscure, the better. Not opposed to something crazy on Rainier like a multi-route-circumnav, but likely prefer to stick with rock at this point. I might want to ski on of those first few days in August … Thanks for reading! Dave 239-two-three-three-2002

Bdubs - we most definitely walked by some people who were still sleeping in an open bivy Saturday, they were appreciably higher than 8k though, probably closer to about 9k (there was another tent nearby). Was that you? It was cool to see someone else utilizing the open bivy concept … Winds felt pretty light on Friday night / Saturday morning ...

Trip: Mt Rainier - Kautz - Tahoma Trip Date: 07/14/2018 Trip Report: Sean and I were debating the idea of Slesse, and last minute Friday opted to bail and go to Rainier. My brainchild was single push up Kautz and down Tahoma, then back to Paradise for a full-value tour. We started at 2am and summitted around 1pm. We were expecting to use our own rope to rappel, so the fixed rope was a pleasant surprise, though the rope has seen better days (it did hold me, at about 225lbs with all gear). I think we missed the 1st ice pitch? The pitch we did climb was casual and fun. I was exceptionally slow above 13k, I guess working at sea level makes it tough to move fast up there. We had a real discussion about down DC or down Tahoma, we opted for Tahoma. The Tahoma was really fun, and definitely still has lots of life left this season. We broke through no crevasses and only had one jump that was seriously questionable if it would go ... We exited the Lower Tahoma glacier around 7pm, and lost visible light on the lower elevations of the South Tahoma Glacier. We lost of a lot of time trying to get across this POS, we ended up crossing very low around 7800 feet. I had a GPS track of the traverse from Success to Paradise, so it was a matter of staying awake and following a track to get back. We thought about heading down to the road and trying to hitch a ride, but we were not entirely sure about where the trail was and thought that getting lost trying to find a trail might be more frustrating that the long way across back to Paradise. It was an awesome, full value trip on Rainier - a venue without equal. Combining everything into a single push really helped reinforce what is possible given enough food and water. Thanks Sean for being a great partner! Final stats: 21.6 miles 11,250 feet of vert 26.5 hrs c2c Gear Notes: Two Tools helpful, a hammer to pound pickets. Approach Notes: LONG WAY back to Paradise

I've got a long weekend and really looking to get out on some rock routes. I could also be convinced for Kautz or Emmons on Rainier, or Coleman Headwall on Baker. Ideas: WA Pass, Leavenworth, Cascade River Road, Squamish … prefer longer alpine up to 5.10, but would be stoked to just get out. If you're comfortable with a group of three, I'd also be happy to join … Thanks! Dave 239-two-three-three-2002