
Al filo
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Everything posted by Al filo
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Some books for sale, 5$ each: -Selected claimbs in the Cascades. - Selected claimbs in the Cascades Vol II. - Washington Pass climbing. - Leavenworth rock. - 100 Classic hikes in WA. - Climber's guide to the Olympic Mountains.
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New Year resolution…. I have a bomb proof expedition tent but decided that I will not do expeditions for different reasons, bought for tentative Denali climb that appears will not happen. North Face Mountain 25, a very reliable 4 seasons, expedition tent. Used 3 or 4 times in snow (Mt Rainier, Mt Baker) for one night each (not much sun or elements exposures) to confirm that is a bomb proof tent. Taken perfect care after use, dried and storage. No single defect, sting or stain. You buy as new.
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Still available
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Not any single defect, double plastic boot, old model, but working for winter introduction. Only for 50$ to get rid of them. Located in Bellevue. They are 8.5 men size, 42 EUR, but may be working for women....
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Hello Sam, I was climbing in Tajikistan part of one expedition in Pamir, inn 2006, climbing Korgeneskaya, Chetirek , Vorobiek and one try to Ismail Somoni (previously Mount Communism. I would need to look back to my information, if you need for agency, accommodations, etc. If you are interested, in that area and at that time, only one agency was controlling base camp and mountain access, no security problems, no big logistic problems for that area. Jesus
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sold! Scarpa Mont Blanc GTX orange (42.5 EU, 9.5 USm)
Al filo replied to Al filo's topic in The Yard Sale
Yes, great boots and I will keep if nobody wish to take the opportunity of the deal -
sold! Scarpa Mont Blanc GTX orange (42.5 EU, 9.5 USm)
Al filo replied to Al filo's topic in The Yard Sale
Price drop -
Scarpa Mont Blanc GTX orange (42.5 EU, 9.5 USm) BUMP, reduced $125.00 Gore-tex, Duratherm, original retail value 449 USD when I bought 5 years ago, very occasional use, only on snow and ice climbing and kept well maintained, in perfect condition with only one small cut in the front rubber in one of them, as showed in the photos. Perfect for winter mountaineering and ice climbing, I did some Cascades classics and winter Canada ice climbing without complaints, very happy with them but now using very occasionally (last year even they did not go out of the closet and they need some activity). In Seattle area if you want to try them.
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I found a jacket at the South route on The Tooth today, let me know if the owner wants to claim it back
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Hi, by chance I saw this pot, I am in similar situation, planning for this year and looking for partner, I had plans done, all the gear and equipment but not finding the right partner. I have altitude experience (Aconcagua and Korgeneskaya 7100m), Mt Rainier, submitted once per year here, five times now, different routes including Liberty and one in winter.... I would be interested; my window is after 27th May. Would be good to meet, but if decided it needs to be the soonest and confirm compatibility, key for me for expeditions. My phone 425 two one three 7114. Thanks
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Kay Land M11+, size 9.5. After a foot surgery this great boot is fitting me too narrow, it is in like new conditions, used only about four times, in snow, very warm, with 200gr Primaloff (warmer than expected), waterproof, lined with dryver, built in Scheiller gaiter, high rubber band, you can find reviews on line, a great boot, it is my lost, may be your win to have a like new winter boot for ice climbing and winter mountaineering for a great price. I am also willing to change for wider boot, similar type. I am busy during the week, better respond with message or text, 425 two one three 7114, I am in Bellevue if you wish to have a look. Price firm 100 dollars. Thanks
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[TR] Mt. Rainier - Gibraltar Ledges / Ingraham Direct 12/14/2014
Al filo replied to Alex Leone's topic in Mount Rainier NP
Winter ascent is a fantastic experience, congrats. Mike, snowshoes totally possible, I did last winter going up and down Muir on snowshoes, the only problem... you have to run down to get before closing the gate at 5pm, or move early in the morning. No good to be expose to gate restrictions, but are the rules. -
[TR] Northern Spain - Picos de Europa 6/27/2014
Al filo replied to TimL's topic in The rest of the US and International.
Hi Tim, looking that is loking home!!! I am from Cantabria and all very familiar to me, I remember my first climb in the Agero about 1986??, puf... a lot of time ago, anyone wanting info, photos, etc I have tons!!!. I am glad you enjoyed Cantabria!!, now I am based in Bellevue, but visiting and climbing there every year when I go on vacations. -
Left PM for pants, supergaiters (if not taken by montypiton and one bottle sleeve. Thanks
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Trip: DRAGONTAIL - Triple couloir Date: 5/3/2014 Trip Report: This trip report is intended to give one update about the conditions and what can be expected there now, although we know that in the cascades the conditions are changing drastically very soon and from one week to the other. We where there two weeks ago and had no luck, snowing and windy at night when one team reported doing the route, we decided to wait for better time. And this time came soon, last Friday, with better weather forcast for Saturday than for Sunday, we decided to go at night, not to wait for Sunday and have another fail. We had the great surprise to find the gate open at Bridge Creek campground , fantastic some walk savings in the morning, 3.5 miles less to walk up and down. Dinner, quick nap at the TH and at 2am walking... We got to the Colchuck Lake around 5am, with first lights to see our mountain, in the apporach to the base I was not very convinced to find good conditions,the snow heading to the base of the route was not plesant and my thoughts were that if we would find similar in the first couloir we would have to bail... But, once in the route, our feelings were changing to better. At the base of first couloir some ice, easy climb. Without rope we enter and progress to the first couloir, swapping places to open tracks, until the runnels were we roped up. The runnels were looking good, now I would say that is the time!!!. We did a total of three pitches, the conditions are acceptable and enjoyable at times, do not bring ice screws, we just lost three trying to place, we used cams, pickets, pitons and stoppers. The first pitch we did short as we headed a bit to the right, loosing the right way. The second pitch to the left is more expose, without good protection, missing good ice to fix ice screws here. For the third pitch there are few options, straight up by a kind of narrow chimney with ice, heading sligthly to the right, by the rocks or traversing all to the right to take the second couloir. Once in the second couloir, we unroped and opened tracks again. Until the transition to the third couloir, which we found not difficult and places to protect with cams, we did one pitch here, continuing simulclimbing to the third couloir. From here straight forward to the summit ridge, by the tracks of other two teams to whom we gave up the way to avoid to cross ropes at the previous transition. Almost 12 hours from the car to the summit, not bad, enjoyjable day and fantastic route with my partner Alex. Now I can go happyly on vacations. Gear Notes: Three pickets, few cams, stoppers and few pitons (ice screws usless, we lost three) Approach Notes: date already open at the bridge
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Liberty Ridge update and climbing permits issues
Al filo replied to Al filo's topic in Mount Rainier NP
Eiger North Face, done in 2h 28m. Grandes Jorasses North Face, done in 2h 21m. Matterhorn North, done in 1h 56m Shisha Pangma, done in 10h 30m. Aconcagua from Horcones round trip, done in 15h. Rainier, recently done round trip from Paradise less of 4h... Of course can be done many great times, who want to play and enjoy that game, good for them, each one enjoy the mountain as he wants. To me, for running to the Olympic Games and alpinism (since when I started more than 30 years ago) is something different; it is to enjoy the sun set, enjoy with a friend/partner the mountain, enjoy a mutual passion during the weekend, release some adrenalina to go back to work fresh. That is what I mean with good luck, no that can not be done and I am pretty sure that in the area there are very good and well talented climbers as you, Loren able to do. I have a great respect for the people with such qualities, but I need to take my time. Many TR only pointing the timing done and no the conditions and advises for helping other climbers We are diverting the subject from the people littering the mountain and the issue with the permits, restricting access, sometimes without clear ground or defined objective. I am leaving in the area and I can come back at any time, but some people is coming from far away and I read that their trip was spoiled (I thought on them when I was in the situation). -
Liberty Ridge update and climbing permits issues
Al filo replied to Al filo's topic in Mount Rainier NP
C2C the Liberty Ridge? Good luck. I am getting older. Climbing midweek? still not so old to be retired -
We had several TR for this route and may be people still planning to climb it, therefore some updates from the recent conditions (route completed yesterday 01 July): - Carbon Glacier: from the two tracks on the glacier, take the lower. The upper route soon will be impracticable, we crossed a snow bridge which soon will fall and the route finding will be difficult. - Thumb rock access: Get there as early as possible (I will recommend before 10am if it is as warm as last weekend), later, somebody is determined in throwing microwaves down the mountain. - Ridge conditions: the bare ice almost disappeared, with last warm-up even the tracks from previous teams sometimes helping and sometimes even doing difficult to progress due to soft snow, even better to make new track at some point. The upper snow ramp, where previously reported bare ice, now is a perfect stair path without any ice. We used only two ice screws at upper summit cap, above schrund, climbing on the right to give us some fan finishing the route, and two pickets. And now a refection about the climbing permits: I arrived to White River ranger Station on Friday at 5:00 pm asking for the climbing permit to start next day, the first response was to deny, reasons no camp spots available, that only it is available permit for !!one person!! and no for two, too many people, he issued all the permits allowed for the route... the rules are the rules... but,… as I am not use or prepared to accept the first response, I asked for consideration, to think that the people is moving, the permits issue in the morning would be for teams spending night in Curtis Ridge and we are one day behind (I conclude it is clear in the climbing permit where it is intended to spend each night at the mountain and the rangers should look at that, it appears that was not prepared to consider). After some conversation and questioning the difference to issue permit for one person or for two, that we can be prepare to make additional camp spot if necessary, etc… I got the permit and I had to thank the consideration. Result: we were totally alone in the mountain; one day ahead it appears there were four teams in the route but not in our schedule (what I tried to explain the ranger having a hard time). Conclusion: What it would happen if we accept the first response and we go home?. What it will happen in similar situations with the dreams of people coming from far away to do the route and the rules without foundation spoil the trip?... One last complaint: When I saw a gel wrapper on the tracks, I thought,… the wind, it happens to all of us,… when I saw the second for an energy bar, I was a bit upset,… when I saw the third, I said, pigs. Please do not litter the mountain; it is not so additional weight for your packs.
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Last Saturday, when climbing Orbit, I did some good photos to the party following us. To the last party of the day, the one that did before Out of Space. If you want the photos, send me a message with your email address. Excellent route and good climbing day.
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PM sent
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No translation errors: http://www.rockfax.com/climbing-guides/books/heavy-water-rjukan-ice-2005/
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Anyone else aiming for 14,411 this weekend?
Al filo replied to CascadeClimber's topic in Mount Rainier NP
Nice to meet you too. Also I was waiting about an hour before to decide to pass through the ledges or to get down... I hope to see you again in the mountains, or in your next winter climb to the Rainier, I have a pending bill there....(I like to finish waht I start)