Jump to content

Al filo

Members
  • Posts

    47
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Al filo

  1. My friends (Spaniards) went there few years ago. Definitely you need to rent a car. The ice falls' area are about 10-15 km from town. They got accommodation at a bungalow in a camping, you can do reservation in advance. Regarding climbings, it is a book Heavy Water you can use as a guide. Enjoy the area, my friends came back very happy. If you are interested in some details, Im can ask them....
  2. Hi, here the Spaniard.... I left the hut at 02:30 alone, as my partner was not feeling well, as you know until the ledges the wind also made me fall several times and I was thinking to bail, but, as I never did the route before and showing up at the ledges the wind calmed, I decided to continue, the ledges were in good shape and without wind, but at 12,600 came back the hurricane, I had hard fight against the elements, I was feeling good, but the wind took me down several times. At 13,000, at 08:00 I decided to finish my fight and descend.
  3. Taking the oprortunity of this post, also planning the Denali this season and looking for partner. I have many years of climbing experience and summited mountains until 23.000 feet, my usual climbing partner already climbed Denali and I look for somebody (I have from him the relevant details for planing), PM me if somebody interested
  4. PM sent
  5. We climbed yesterday, second on the line, after the team above which decided to give up waiting, after us another team finished at night (waiting at the tree of the second pitch due to the ice falling). The first pitch is the only one where you can use ice screws, (recommended short), third and last pitch with inconsistent snow, possibilities for rock protection. Crusting and swimming in the snow with difficult protection to the col cornice. Pleasant day for summiting late in the day, gorgeous day and views. Other two teams, at least, gave up, yes too many people there on Sunday.
  6. I am Spanish, from the North of Spain and there climbing partners you will find through the climbing clubs, or climbing gyms (rocodromos), the people is not so prepare to climb with somebody they do not know, so better approach is to go to climbing clubs, I do not know which one may be the more active, so better to ask in climbing shops or in the gym below. One forum: www.sistemacentral.net/for/. Climbing gym and everything related: www.espacioaccion.com/ : here you will find climbing partenrs for sure and many information. Barrabes's foro is not very active for climbing, they sell everything on line and they have several shops, the last one opened in Madrid in C/ Orense 56. There you can ask also. Another shop where to ask: El Rincon de la montania , C/Rivera de Curtidores 1 (very traditional). Hopefully between the links and information above you will get what you are looking for.
  7. Thank you for helping to upload pics, done, however still learning. I just created my first TR and something I did wrong, I copied the links to enter image but not appearing the image in the TR, only the link...
  8. Trip: Mount Baker - North Ridge Date: 5/6/2012 Trip Report: We did on 6th of May the North Ridge in the Mt. Baker, with killer snow conditions. [img:center]http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/504/medium/IMG_24331.JPG[/img] Our first full weekend, in Cascade Mountains, with a beautiful day. The weather was fantastic, but the clear night form Saturday to Sunday was not enough to freeze the snow and all the climb we were with the snow almost to our knees. The road to Heliotrope is still blocked and it is necessary to walk 2.5 extra miles to access. [img:center]http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/504/medium/IMG_2369.JPG[/img] Saturday we acceded to the Heliotrope Ridge, at about 6250 feet, were we camp. The first setback was that one of our team was not fully recovered from his knee, as he thought and he had to renounce to climb next day. The second was the snow conditions which delayed a lot our climb. We got up early in the morning, but not enough….. we were too optimistic and to cross the Coleman glacier was a long way, fortunately many of the crevasses were covered, although we had to work in route finding (as were not any tracks) and to cross several crevasses , partially hidden and prepared to wolf down. [img:center]http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/504/medium/IMG_3530.JPG[/img] [img:center]http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/504/medium/IMG_2393.JPG[/img] We finished crossing the glacier when the sun started to get up and we were also too optimistic thinking that the snow conditions in the mountain would improve… In the ramp below the ice wall, the snow was not much better, very arduous job. We took the ice ridge, by the left arête and we enjoyed the two ice pitches, with acceptable conditions (the ice a bit brittle), but the view and the ridge fantastic, with beautiful day. [img:center]http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/504/medium/IMG_35401.JPG[/img] [img:center]http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/504/medium/IMG_3543.JPG[/img] The access to the summit crater also arduous and we finished very, very late….a very long day with a very long way down in a beautiful full moon night. [img:center]http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/504/medium/IMG_24122.JPG[/img] [img:center]http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/504/medium/IMG_24161.JPG[/img] Neither of us knew the route before, but as the weather was great we enjoyed a perfect day in the mountains.
  9. If you mean the two ice pitches of the route, they are the only good we found, a bit brittle, but good. We climbed through the ridge and it was great in that part, all the rest, deep snow almost to the knees. I do not know how to upload pics...sorry
  10. We did last weekend the North Ridge in the Baker. Road conditions: The access road to Heliotrope is block 2.5 miles before the parking (be prepare to walk 1h15´ more). Approach conditions, we crossed all the Coleman glacier without floation, with snow almost to our knees, very hard job, with hiden crevasses to watch out.
  11. We were the folks trying to get there on 7th and we could not get to the ridge due to the conditions of the snow, cornice and bergschrund. Also the conditions on the route does not appear to be the best now, good idea to wait... I would add some pics if I would know how to do??
  12. PM sent for the two 13 and the 16
  13. PM sent for the helmet
  14. E-mail sent on the laser screw and two screamers
  15. Heff, For me it is a pleasure to share experience with anyone. I can go for ice climbing, ice falls, long winter climbs, rock climbing, a conditioning near home, or to enjoy a day walking through the mountains. All that I want is to meet people here, also I have climbing movies, done by me, from my activities in Alps, rock climbing, ice falls and expeditions, to enjoy with whichever like to see, in a rainy day. If you want send me a PM and we will see. As I say, I am looking forwar to meet here climbing partners to do similar activities I did before. Rainier, If I can, I will not wait for summer, I would do as soon as I find a climbing partner for that, I like winter climbing.
  16. Alex, I sent to you a PM,look, may be you did not see....
  17. No problem, good some fun and enjoy the outdoors
  18. Sorry about that, Gaucho sent to you PM
  19. Encantado, buenos recuerdos del Aconcagua, cuando quieras
  20. I am from Spain, with 30 years of experience doing rock, ice, and expeditions (Alps Chamonix, Cogne, Pamir, Aconcagua....), I like clasic climbing, however I addapt to everyting...and now came to Washington state, leaving in Bellevue. Looking for long term partenrs to share same interest. I have only weekends free and from this one I want to start to explore around, and walking with my snowshoes, meantime I find partners for climbing, or for long alpine routes. If the weather is not good, I have my own movies from climbings in Alps and Spain to share and enjoy with friends...I do not know any place around, except Alpental, wehre I did mi first one. Anxious to meet people here....
  21. Hi La Mano, We met at the Chair Pk, last Sunday, also new in the area, coming from Spain, with years of experience in many mountains and also looking for partners to get out. I hope to get in touch with people to share our pasion
×
×
  • Create New...