hamballs

bump. Thanks @christophbenells. I'm glad you enjoyed that. I updated what is still available (except for the boxers, that was joke).

Finally getting around to clearing out some of the stuff I never use. All prices are OBO. Pick up in Seattle or buyer pays shipping. Cash, Google Wallet, or Paypal w/ creditcard. I'll mark as SOLD once items are gone. SOLDWild Country Helium Friends (Sizes: 2, 2.5, 3, 3.5) with matching Camp Photon Wire. $30 each or $100 for all four. Lightly used with no falls. SOLDMetolius Offset Master Cams (Sizes: 0, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5) with matching Camp Photon Wire. $30 each or $150 for all six. Lightly used with no falls. SOLDMetolius Curved Hexes (Sizes: 1-10) with Petzl oval carabiner. $35 for the set. Never used, only racking scratches. SOLDCAMP USA Dyneema Tri Cam Set (Sizes: 0.5, 1, 1.5, 2) with Camp Photon Wire. $30 for the set. SOLDPetzl Am'D Screwgate Carabiners (5). $5 each or $20 for all five. Lightly used. Misc. Carabiners and Belay Devices. $2 each with other purchase. La Sportiva Mythos (Size: 45.5) $20. SOLD5.10 Anasazi VCS (Size: 46.5) $20. SOLD5.10 Anasazi Moccasym (Size: 46.5) $20. Forty Below Purple Haze Overboots (Size: M, Color: Black). New. $80. Men’s OR Alti Mitt (Size: M, Color: Black). Used once. $80. SOLDMen’s OR Mentor Bibs (Size: L, Color: Black Grey). Used with a few patches. Plenty of life remaining. $40. Men’s Patagonia Softshell (Size: M, Color: Blue). Worn less than 5 times. $75. Men’s Patagonia R4 Fleece (Size: L, Color: Green). $75 Men’s Patagonia R4 Fleece (Size: L, Color: Black). $75 SOLDMen’s Patagonia Synthetic Vest (Size: L, Color: Green). $35 Women’s Sierra Designs Synthetic Hoody (Size: M, Color: Red). $35. Marmot Fleece (Size: M, Color: Tan). $20. Julbo Glacier Glasses with case(Fits smaller head). $30 Neoprene gloves (Size: M). $10. Misc. OR and Arc’Teryx Hats. $5 each. Misc. Baselayers: - W’s M OR T - $5 - M’s XL Marmott Lightweight Long-sleeved T $10. - M’s XL Marmott Medium weight Long-sleeved T $10. - SOLDM’s L Patagonia Cap3 Long-sleeved T $10. - M’s L REI Medium weight Long-sleeved T $5. - M’s L Patagonia Boxers $10.

The timing of this years snow fall has been a bit odd but the current snow depth at Paradise is above average. With the wet spring we're having, I'd guess the upper mountain this year will have a fair bit of snow well into July. That said, my experience is that the conditions on the route will mostly be dependent on the weather leading up to your climb (new snow, melt/freeze, windy, etc.). If you are looking for a more probably weather window, later is better. The local knowledge around here is that summer (dry) starts July 4. Good luck.

Incredibly strong work Jens and Chad. The completion of this enchainment is truly a remarkable accomplishment. You just provided me with a very good stoke. Thanks for the write up.

Trip: Mt. Stuart - Complete North Ridge Date: 6/22/2013 Trip Report: Note, I'll fix the rotation on some of the pictures when I get to my home computer... LeDonk and I got the chance to climb the complete North Ridge of Mt. Stuart this weekend. Both of us had climbed the upper ridge before but wanted to take a hack at the complete line. The plan was to ovoid the typical N. Ridge suffer-fest that comes by circumnavigating the mountain by approaching from the North, bivying at the base of the Sherpa Glacier, climbing the route in a single day, and descending via the Sherpa Glacier Couloir. Friday: We left Seattle around 7AM and headed east. After about 4 hours of leisurely hiking, we were at the base of the Sherpa Glacier. We spent the afternoon napping and watching ice and rock fall of the mountains above. We witnessed one of the largest rock slides I’ve ever seen come down the Sherpa Glacier. A few house-sized boulders made it to the centerline of the valley…pretty cool. Saturday: We woke early and were on route by 6:30AM. The lower pitches of the route were fun and went smoothly. We were at the notch where the first bivy sites are around 11AM. From there we continued up easier terrain toward the base of the gendarme. The low angle slab was still holding a fair bit snow and LeDonk was forced to pull out his slab climbing skills. We skirted around the snow to the left on some dirtier slab at 5.7. By this time some clouds were beginning to build higher on the mountain but we were pretty close to the summit so we pressed on. I brought us to the base of the gendarme and LeDonk took the classic layback pitch, which was dripping wet and really cold. I led the second pitch of the gendarme, which was also quite wet, but I was able to get good fist jams in the crack through the grunty part. From there, a few short pitches and some simu-climbing in mixed snow/rock terrain brought us to the summit around 8:30PM in a full on white out. We felt like the amount of snow on the upper ridge really slowed us down. From the summit we attempted to find the Sherpa decent couloir. Neither of us had descended this way before and after literally walking in circles a few times, and darkness setting in, we new bailed on the Sherpa. Not knowing what the weather was going to do, we decided to descend the Cascadian, bivy in the valley for the night, and hike out via Sherpa Pass/ Mountaineer’s Creek the next day. Sunday: We woke shivering on the forest floor in our emergency bivy, ate our last bars and hiked back to the north side of the mountain, and hiked out in the rain. Arriving back in Leavenworth, we promptly grabbed some burgers at Heidelberger and drove back to Seattle. All in all, a full value trip that didn’t seem to end. Despite spending an extra night out, it was a great trip. The route should be in much better shape in a few weeks. Gear Notes: Standard Alpine Rack. Ice ax, approach shoes, aluminum spikes. Approach Notes: Icicle Creek to Mountaineers Creek.

Boots are sold. I'm selling a pair of M's La Sportiva Nepal Evo GTX sz 42.5. These boots have been used once for about 5 minutes so their are a few scratches on the sole but other than that, they are brand new. -$275 OBRO Paypal or cash, buyer pays shipping or pickup in Seattle area. Photos:

PM sent

Anyone know how the Sherpa Glacier is looking? I'm thinking its probably out but haven't heard for sure. What are peoples favorite ways to get off Stuart? Last time I was there I swore never to walk down the Cascadian again. West Ridge, Sherpa...?

If you want to get a little deeper than just a point forecast such as this. I'd check out UW's modeling page: http://www.atmos.washington.edu/mm5rt/ It takes a bit of getting used to but I've found these products to be extremely useful in timing weather windows and getting a better idea of what the overall weather patterns are doing. Typical caveats apply here in terms of accuracy, application, etc.

Why not do away with sticky rubber and boots for the approach? After all, isn't going it barefoot the only true form of climbing or hiking? I occasionally dabble with tape on my hands and shoes on my feet. I agree though, Diedre is not the place for tape.

The first BD angle I ever placed. Couldn't get it out. Stuck somewhere in the first before the runnels. If that's what you found, you can have it.

Nice TR guys. Crazy to hear of the crevasses in the gulley. I've never seen that before, at least not this early. Futuristic climbing is the new pink.

Whether or not you choose a hardshell, softshell, or hybrid completely depends on where and when you'll be using it. If there's a chance you'll be spending prolonged periods of time getting rained on in the Cascades, a good hardshell is a must. If you'll only be using it on Deanali, a soft or hybrid shell jacket is plenty sufficient. When I spent alot of my time in the Coast Mountains of BC getting rained, I used a bomber 3-layer shell (Alpha SV). Now that I'm here in the Cascades and generally get to choose when I go out and ovoid really bad weather, I still use a hardshell but its a much lighter version (Alpha FL). On Denali, I took a hardshell and never really used it except on really windy days, for some reason it never rained during my 9 days at 17camp. A disclaimer about me though: I don't really sweat so I can usually hike all day in a shell and not get too hot. Hence why I choose the hardshell. It provides all the protection without the loss of comfort or breathability. I personally don't see many uses for softshells apart from looking cool while ice climbing or if you live in Arizona where it doesn't rain. My two cents.

I'd give a call up to the Rangers at Paradise. I'm sure one of them has been up there recently. Also, it gives them a chance to do something useful.

First thought is that rope diameter may be a factor. WC Ropeman is only designed for use ropes to 8.5mm, so the 8.1mm Rando is out. The Petzl MiniTraxon goes to 8 mm. Some thought would need to be used on how you could release tension with a device like this in the event of a tricky crevasse lip, if that became necessary. Personally, I've just used the standard prusik knot.