Damo

How up to date? Without checking the AAJs I can only consult the pretty unreliable top of my head: - an attempt at Orville that did not get far - maybe an ascent of Fairweather, via the Carpé(?) recently? - Paul Knott went in for another try at Crillon NR, and think maybe climbed or tried something else nearby?

You seen this? http://www.nps.gov/glba/planyourvisit/loader.cfm?csModule=security/getfile&PageID=1097533

I shared a Jannu with a partner on Pik Lenin (7134m) this year. The length was OK - I'm 6'7" - but the roof was low. I could barely sit up and had to scrunch pretty bad to get in and out. They're a good tent, but I doubt what the OP needs. I have a Firstlight + vestibule but that's not really the answer, and it adds to the weight and bulk of the whole package. Eldorado? I used on on Denali years ago but they're not light, nor are they really long enough - just better than an I-tent. I've used a Bibler/BD Tempest a lot, which is long and strong, but too heavy to really climb with. The EV2 are nice and long but expensive and many report bad condensation. The 'integrated vestibule' thing just means when you drag your pack in out of the storm you get all the snow in the main part of the tent too. The MSR Fury looks good, except for the snow-collecting flat roof. And a low door, according to this: http://www.testedoutdoors.com/blog/msr-fury-review/

I went up it last Monday morning alone. My first time there, but it was in good and easy condition. Most weren't going up the actual Hogsback, though some were, then traversing left beneath the huge crevasse blocking it up high. Easier to just go down and left then straight up the face, big bucket steps. The Chute at the top was a little icy but no problem, the final summit ridge very easy, not narrow or exposed. Good luck.

Jokes aside, it's 'cool-wah'. Emphasis is evenly spread on each syllable, with more/less emphasis on either syllable the only real variation. You pronounce the 'l'.

Dane, I hope you're not expecting an hour of my ranting negativity and character assassination? That's what Summitpost is for! I'm playing nice this time. Looking forward to seeing Portland and hopefully getting my out-of-shape ass onto a hill somewhere if the weather cooperates. thanks, D

Yep, you can just go organize it in a couple of days in Mendoza no problem. I've done this twice. Most people book their whole trip through an agency, guided, and the mules are included in that, but if you're unguided/independent you just need an agency as a contact to book the mules and provide tent space/toilet in BC. You need this to get a permit and it will be checked by the rangers at the trailhead and again at BC. Last time I did it we spent a few days around 3300-4200m in the Cordon del Plata outside Mendoza. You can get a taxi out there for about $80. I think last time I used the Grajales company for the mules and there was an office right in the middle of town, mostly selling tours but you could just go in and book mules only. Info below is for the normal route, Horcones Valley with Plaza de Mulas BC. You took your bags, on the public bus in our case, to Grajales shed at Puenta del Inca, dropped them off, got them tagged etc and the guy gave us a ride up to the trailhead. Our bags were there at the same place when we got back. Grajales base is in Los Penitentes nearby but they have a shed at Puenta del Inca. The mules travel (much) faster than you, so on the way back you leave BC at, say, 8am and get into Puenta del Inca at 4pm and your bags have been there a few hours. On the way in, if you stop a night or two at Confluencia you need your sleeping bag, water bottle, snacks, camera etc as your bags will go all the way in to BC in that first day, where you won't get to BC (Plaza de Mulas) until the second day. I actually carried our tent to Confluencia then intercepted the mules early the next morning and added it to our load to BC, but normally people use agency tents at Confluencia (they were short of such tents when I was there last). We also bought dinner and breakfast at Confluencia, saving carrying food/stove on the walk-in. On that occasion the food was good, but I've seen mixed offerings at other agencies. It might sound a bit complicated but it works out pretty straightforward and is the best mix of being almost totally independent, unguided, cooking for yourself etc, but not crippled by huge loads and being able to enjoy the place. I did carry all my gear out myself once, no mules, 30kg pack for 40km in plastic boots, and that was awful. The walk in to Confluencia from the road is really easy, about 2.5hrs. But the next day up to Mulas BC is a long one and gains 1000m or so. Start early to make the creek crossings easier, and dress for cold wind and dust. Despite Aconcagua's boring reputation, it's a beautiful valley to walk up, but a long grind. http://www.grajales.net/aconcagua/services/mules.html We cooked all our own food at BC and on the hill, but you can buy $$$ crappy meals at a tent in BC. Both times I've done the normal route I've summited from C1 (Nido Condores), not used C2 (Berlin). Leave around midnight, it was cold up around 6200m, maybe -20C or so. Crampons good but no axe needed both times. The permit office is in the main avenue in the centre of town. It has a big sign above it, but check the opening hours. Permits cost between $300 - $700 depending the time you go. You pay at a little office down the street then take the receipt back to the main office. Food and beer are cheap. Mendoza is a great place to hang for a few days. Also some trad rock out at Arenales but you'll probably need a car. Some of the above I posted a while back at: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=476547&v=1#x6573525 Some useful info at: http://www.summitpost.org/aconcagua/150197

Agreed, although it is often deliberately arbitrary. In this case, given the mostly-accepted definitions and categories of the activity in question, I think her claim is fine. No, there was also a track to the Pole from near Union Glacier / Patriot Hills / Hercules Inlet area. It was on this track that another 'unassisted' team was found one day. It's nitpicking, I know, but it's like a climber claiming a solo ascent of, say, Everest, where the track has been put in by Sherpas and other climbers. But then maybe she didn't use it after all ...

Where? In Antarctica - Union Glacier and South Pole. If you claim a continental 'crossing' then it will be compared to other 'crossings' - like Borge's, Rjune's etc. As for womens' trips, in 2000-01 Liv Arnesen and Anne Bancroft skiied and kited 2747km across the continent, from near the Queen Maud Land coast to the inside edge of the Ross Ice Shelf. Liv had already been the first woman to ski solo to the South Pole, 1130km from Hercules Inlet, in 1994.

Borge's effort, and that by Rjune Gjeldnes a decade later, are the benchmarks, imo. When Borge crossed solo, kites were not considered 'support' or 'assistance' by the polar community, as they are now. In those days (early-mid 90s) the 'edge' was considered the outside of Berkner Island and the outer edge of Ross Island (McMurdo), as the ice shelves had always been considered part of the continent, but money, convenience and other factors led to the 'inside' land-edge, usually Hercules Inlet, being considered an OK start, leading to shorter 'crossings' like those from the northern ends of the Leverett and Axel Heiberg Glaciers. Neither Borge nor Rjune used resupplies or airdrops, whereas Felicity did - and Messner/Fuchs did too. As mentioned above, Felicity's route is significantly shorter than those other trips. It might be a continental 'crossing' in letter, according to some, but not really in spirit. Rjune's distance record was broken a few days ago by some Belgians, but they have done a big circular route, not a crossing. Not to denigrate what Felicity's done, it's a great effort and great to see a woman doing something like that, especially solo. She also, it is said, went much of the way along the 'road' constructed by tractors to and from the Pole. Not sure how accurate that is, maybe just light gossip, but that was the word going around, nor, if true, was she the only one to ski for at least some of their route on a 'road' - easing the navigational, sastrugi and crevasse issues quite a bit. Trips should be judged on their own merits, but when you claim 'firsts' etc then you invite comparisons. It was a crazy season down there this year, lots going on. Lots of fun had. D