Theodore

FWIW, I just grabbed one from Moosejaw for a pretty good discount if you want to buy new. If not, there is a good one in the yard sale! http://www.moosejaw.com/moosejaw/shop/product_Arcteryx-Men-s-Alpha-SL-Jacket_10042713_10208_10000001_-1_

Email sent on 16cm turbo express...

How soon would you need em? I'm still on the fence as to whether I will keep mine. If I don't, they're yours. I just need to get a few more hikes in w and w/o them to see which I prefer.

BTW, the Lyngen is 20% off right now at backcountry.com if anyone is toying with pulling the trigger.

Bump!

There was a guy on 14ers.com that did some experiments on this and basically found that you can't add enough salt/alcohol/mix/anything else to lower the freezing point and still be enjoyable. I'll see if I can dig it up tonight.

Just like any sanctioned fight, the weight will be the same. It's up to the fighters to determine what "skills" will be in attendance. Baffling is legal. Any stitching is legal. The only requirements are that Dane is primaloft, and Tvash is down; AND the fill weights are the same.

IIRC there is a guy over on the summitpost forums that is looking for a big down puffy in medium. Just a heads up!

Clearly, the only way to solve this is a pillow fight. Dane gets a synthetic pillow. Tvashtarkatena gets a down pillow. May the best man win. It's the only way!

Thank ya sir! Not sure on a route just yet, I had originally planned on a May ascent with a friend, but he backed out on me. So now I'm looking at a July-ish ascent. Maybe Emmons? Dunno for sure. Re: weights, as I said, I don't necessarily trust the manufacturers weights, and weighing smalls doesn't seem honest, but believable with how a lot of companies do things... I'd agree that weight shouldn't be THAT far off, but of course XL's are going to weigh more. (they just shouldn't be that much more)

While I agree with your point that the manufacturers might be a little less than truthful about their weights, I don't think weighing XL's is fair to them either. On another note, not doing guided DC climb either.

The copy from Norrona reads that most of their stuff is truly 800, but in the interest of under promising and over delivering, they market it as 750. I had a Fission SL for a bit that was too small for me and wasn't really impressed with its packability. Western Mountaineering was appealing, but their hoods didn't impress me too much and I didn't like their color selection. I prefer bright colors for outer shells/layers. Just in case. I'll definitely check out Pro Mountain Sports.

I went ahead and pulled the trigger on a Norrona Lyngen. Should have it on Tuesday, hoping I like it as much as the reviews praise it! Tvash - That's pretty similar to what I wore on Hood and what I wear on 14ers in CO during the winter. I did use shell pants on Hood and didn't get any 'steam room' effect. I also have a pair of lightly insulated Marmot ski pants that I wear when it's really cold instead of my OR softshell pants. Thanks again for the conversation, I like seeing the different thought processes and opinions.

I have an Atom LT hoody already that I love. Very nice and versatile jacket!

I have a similar thread going in the gear review section that should give some info. A lot of the guys who are in the PNW like synthetic fills since it can be so wet. Layering is also the preferred method by a few folks. I'm sure others will chime in soon, but check out that other thread, it might give a little insight for you.

No connection to the seller, but saw this a few days ago: http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showflat/Number/1053537/Searchpage/1/Main/85446/Words/Rab+Latok/Search/true/Re_FS_Rab_Latok_Alpine_jacket_#Post1053537

Thanks guys, Dane I'll keep my eyes peeled! Can you name an example of a 100g primaloft (or similar) parka? I don't need you to list off a ton, just so I have an idea when looking since you usually have to dig a bit for fill weights. ...and I'd definitely agree with the 2 jackets, I just have a wife that always does the "why do you need THAT..."

I'm trying to narrow down a new jacket purchase and am looking for some suggestions. I read Dane's blog on heavier jackets took some good notes, just trying to see if there is anything out there that I'm missing. I'm looking for a bigger puffy/hooded jacket. I used a MH subzero on Hood last year, weight seemed ok, but conditions weren't bad, so I'd like something a little burlier for a try on Rainer this summer. At some point I'd love to get up Orizaba, Kili, Aconcagua, and wondering if jackets for something like Aconcagua is going to be overkill for a Rainier jacket. (I know, I know, it all depends on the weather...) I'd like to buy one warmer jacket than 2 down the line. In consideration as of now: MH Chillwave - essentially my Sub0, but with a hood. Rab Neutrino Norrona Lyngen - from Dane's review FA - Peak XV - heard good things, but hard to find in L now a days Would getting something like a MH Absolute Zero be complete overkill for Rainier? Any synthetic jackets I'm overlooking? Thanks for any help! Ted

Fission is SOLD. MH Subzero jacket - $60 MH Windstopper vest - $25 Thanks!

N/m, no longer interested.

It was a good intro to glacier climbing and the Cascades in general. I'll definitely be back for a proper summit. I was hoping to hit Rainier this summer but my partner backed out on me. Working on some back up plans, but if those fall through, a return to Hood is the most realistic plan. Hoping for a route that is a little steeper and sustained.

Price tweak! Fission SL - $300 MH Sub 0 jacket - $60 MH Windstopper vest - $25 Prices OBO!

Trip: Mt. Hood - Standard/Old Chute Date: 6/23/2011 Trip Report: Nothin special/new, but a few nice pics... Newbness is obvious here, first time in the Cascades. On Thursday 6/23 I climbed Mt. Hood in OR with one really good friend (Taylor), one new friend (Ryan) and an awesome guide (Tico) that made sure he did what he could to keep us from screwing anything up. I've done a fair amount of climbs in CO, Taylor has summited Hood 4 times before this climb and this was Ryan's first time on a snow climb. All sorts of experience.... Taylor is on the board with the American Lung Association up there and has done their fund raising climb a few times - called To the Summit. They have a pro photag go with them, John Waller. We started ahead of this group and got in some of John's photos. You'll be able to tell the quality, they are awesome! Here's his trailer from his production company of the climb for them, I'm in the still at the start of the video, guy in back with the red backpack. View of the summit from Timberline's upper level. This was my first time on a glacier, or on consistent steep snow, so Tico was a good piece of mind to have around. Ryan and I did a few hour skill review lower on the mountain on Wednesday morning, going over crampon technique, ice axe usage, basic anchor building, roped travel, stuff like that. Here's us heading back to Timberline Lodge. Tico on the left, Ryan in the middle and me on the right. We grabbed some lunch, the headed back to the cabin just below Gov't Camp to rest up for the climb. I've woken up at o dark thirty quite a few times for 14ers, but this was a different experience for me. We woke up at 10pm threw our gear together and drove up to Timberline. Ready to get goin... Taylor and I at the climbers hut at Timberline We ended up taking a snow-cat up to the top of the ski resort, part of the guide fee. Felt like cheating, but I'd never been in a snowcat before, so it was kinda cool. Saved a boring slog. When we started out, we were solidly in the marine layer. Dense clouds, some rain and visibility of about 50-75 feet. Thankfully during the 20 minute ride we emerged just above the layer and had a sky full of stars above out heads. Fortunately, we had a pro photag in the group behind us! First rest area: Looking towards PDX: Looking up the Hogsback: First time on a volcano, was surprised at how much sulfur-y goodness the mountain puts out. Not so good smelling. We stopped at the hot rocks, roped up, ditched our poles and out came the ice axes. We got to the top of the old chute area and Tico took us up a fun direct finish that went up a steep couloir that was about 55 degrees with one short 10 foot section that was about 65-70 degrees. Tico leading the steep pitch. Ryan, Taylor and I in the couloir waiting for our turns: In short order we topped out on the summit ridge and made our way over to the summit. Myself and Taylor on chilly summit... 45mph winds and 15 degrees... made for a windchill of ~10F. My face and nose were getting COLD. Fingers didn't want to be out of gloves for very long either! Tico and Ryan: We summited just after 5 am, just in time to watch the sun rise on the horizon. With a layer of clouds below us, the summits of the high peaks around us stood like islands. Much cooler summit experience than anything I've had in CO (outside of getting engaged on Elbert)! Looking back down the summit ridge: We didn't have much time on top due to the wind, so we headed down after about 10 or 15 minutes. We made it down to the Hogsback, stowed the axes, out came the poles and started the slog back down. Here's the last pic that's worthwhile... looking down at the clouds from the Hogsback. The slope stayed relatively firm until we got to the top of the ski area, then it turned to slush. We ended up making it back down to Timberline around 8am... Start of most people's day and it felt like 6pm for us. Weird sensation for a Cascade newb! Gear Notes: Same ol stuff. Approach Notes: Rumble rumble

What color is the Beta AR?

Not to derail this serious thread from it's truly important subject, but I think you should check your facts. Most statements regarding the air pressure as a function of latitude are anecdotal. The air column at the equator may be thicker than at the arctic circle, but centripetal force at the equator is much greater at the equator, and reaches zero at the poles. Equating 24K in the Himalayas with 17K in the Alaska range seems preposterous I've generally heard ~3,000 to 4,000 feet of difference at the summit. I.e. Denali at 20320, feels like 23 or 24,000 in the Himalaya.