schroden

Big Mitch-- Sage advice. As the group comes together we will have to see what the least common denominator is. It is clear that roped protection is necessary for the Kautz, so we will have to have the skills if we go that way. Allan

Still planning on this climb, with hopes for a night on the summit. Could add a couple more climbers, if anyone is free and interested, send me your contact info. Have been reviewing route beta, and am increasingly jealous of all the folks just a couple hours from rainier! A bit saddened that many routes are not available or 'safe' late in August. Depending on the conditions, the choices may be down to Ingraham Direct/Disappointment Cleaver, Emmons/Winthrop Glaciers, or Kautz Glacier. Each route get to the summit, which is the main goal, but I prefer less crowded or congested route, at least for the ascent. Here's hoping for lots more snow, and a late, slow melt, to allow more route options!

Hello Not familiar with that jacket. Is it packable, and does it have a waterproof/repellant outer shell? Hood, pockets etc? Allan

Anyone interested in getting in on the planning phase of this climb, send me a PM (personal message) with your E-mail address please.

With the New Year upon us, and the bulk of the Holiday business behind, I am looking forward to a new year of outdoor fun and adventure! That will hopefully start once the worst of the winter icebox breaks! Today reached a brisk -2, and tonight's low is forecast -20 to -25, and has been unseasonable cold for weeks. In the mean time, it is P90X for me! I am planning on flying out to be ready to climb Mount Rainier on Monday August 25th. The rest of my vacationing family will fly out Friday August 29th, so I will have 4 1/2 days to fit in the climb and explore the area.

Yes, I am still looking for poeple for this climb! Good to have some gear already in Washington, as flying with gear and everything for a 2 week vacation gets tight! Glad to hear from those interested. As the group develops, we can discuss logistics and route options. I am open to routes, as long as it is not too technical. I am good for 'class 3' scrambles and bouldering, exposure to make a mountain goat blink, and steep snow/ice, but have limited wall experience.

I too have sat out on, or near, summits, while it rain, sleet, snow and blow sideways. I believe I have donned the raingear on 6 of my 12 14,000 foot summits, and about half of the 'lesser' summits. Even more fun with lightening! I feel it is all part of mountaineering, part of the adventure, the excitement. For those willing to climb with a schedule that allows the flexibility to explore, to wait out the weather, and try for a night on the summit, keep in touch! My plans now have me in Washington the week of August 24th, 2014. Might not be the optimal week, but likely in the best 90%. The "cattle tracks" should be well established, so a tired or quick descent is an option.

Penitentes are interesting, and I have seen the effect, though not nearly as intense as the picture above. I do believe that the posted picture was taken near the disapointment cleaver, not the summit. IF there are significant penitentes in the summit crater, I expect that a suitable campsite can still be found somewhere in or near the crater, or at least near the summit. If no campsite can be found or carved out, then descending is still an option. I just want to have options: routes, campsite, daylight climb, and potential to explore the summit/crater/ice caves. I desire NOT to be on the expressway track with all the guided climbers. With options comes the need to cary the gear to be safe, and the possibility of a windy, tent flapping night. Robert Frost wrote about roads: "I took the one less traveled by, And that has made all the difference."

http://www.turns-all-year.com/skiing_snowboarding/trip_reports/index.php?topic=10009.0 Thanks for posting the linked article. Was a good read, and good outcome for the 2 adventurers. I do know that in pursuing this adventure, I need to be cognizant of the changing weather, snow, wind, ice and visibility. I would like the freedom to enjoy the climb, the changing views, and the possibility of taking time to explore the summit crater, ice caves, and views from each side of the crater. Certainly know that this is a summit attempt, and may have to bivy below the summit, wait for weather, suffer the weather at the summit, and even turn back if the summit is not safely attainable.

Will be in WA 8/29 through 9/6, so would add time to climb the week of 8/25 or 9/7. I believe either would work, weather permitting, so it is up to whatever works for the group. Days get shorter quicker close to the equinox, but even 12 hours of sun allows for a good long climb. Peaked Longs the second week of September, with a foot of fresh snow, and it was a nice long day!

I too wonder about climing possibilities NOT using the guide services. Having summited 12 different 14,000 foot mountains without the regimented guide services, I would not be satisfied with that level of structure. Most of my climbs have been 'solo' climbs, but often with other climbers who I have met up with on the trail. I understand the need to be in a group for glaciated or technical mountain routes, but also desire to have input.

Good to know I am not crazy. Would like to know if there are potential climbers interested in this type of climb, but will not plan details until closer to the climb. 2014 vacation requests are due January 1st, and would be nice to know if I should take time for this, or plan for shorter things like Mt. Baker, or just go play on the Olympics, as that is already scheduled.

So I am not crazy? Am I? I know next August is a long way off, but was hoping for a few interested inquiries.

I am interested in a group climb of Mount Rainier, diverging from the 'normal' climb schedule, as I would rather not climb before sunrise and hustle to get done before the sun softens the snow bridges. I propose to climb from one of the camps to the summit on the second day, make camp on the summit and spend a leisurly afternoon exploring the summits, ice caves and watch the sunset. Third day would be the climb down after sunrise. I personally would schedule a fourth day, just in case the weather is not co-operating. I have climbed a dozen 14,000 foot mountains, solo backpacked over 3 of the summits, and have slept at ~12,000 feet a few times with no altitude difficulties. Having climbed in the dark, sleet, snow, wind and rain, and whatever nature throws my way, I would prefer to see this mountain and enjoy the climb, even if that means carrying the camp to the summit! Yes, camping on the summit (summit crater) is allowed! Planning to be in the Seattle area end of August, 2014, which may be a bit 'late' in the climbing season, but may also provide fair weather and longer climbing windows.

Sorry for the delay in responding to those who would climb with me. My apologies! Will do better next time! I snagged a Mount St. Helens pass for Monday, and then climbed Adams Tuesday/Wednesday. Great climbs and perfect weather, if a bit windy. Clear skies and could see from the sisters all the way past Baker. Will try again next summer when we are out to visit. Allan

Just reviewed Summit Post routes, and think that Easton glacier, Squak glacier, or possibly Boulder glacier routes look good. I often climb on routes rather then established trails, and class 3 scrambling is fun, but have not been on vertical ice. Allan

Interested in a climb on Baker. Will be in Seattle area for the week, and would be happy to join up for a climb, with or without a night on the mountain. Have climbed 11 14,000 foot mountains, LOTS of snow experience, including Whitney mountaineer's route on steep snow. Need partner(s) for glaciers. Allan