schroden

Quick update: Have 3 confirmed climbers, but room for more. Will be sending in a reservation request for the Emmons route. Anyone wanting on the camping reservation just need to let me know! Allan

Well, with May here and about 6 weeks to the proposed climb, we still have a space on the rope if anyone is interested! Need to get things firmed up, and reservation made. Will remain open to additions later on, space permitting. Allan

I lead a climb up Mount Rainier this past August, with a planned 1 night on (near) the summit. Was a great climb, but not enough time to explore the summit area, as we needed to finish on the 4th day, rather then the 5th as previously planned. We camped in the East summit crater, and expanded an existing tent pad, digging it deeper and adding a wall on the windy side. Yes, camping is allowed on the summit! watching the sunset from the top was great, and well worth the wind. Could see all of the Olympics, Puget sount and the islands, all the way to Canada and well into Oregon. Planning a second climb this June, starting either the 15th or 17th, with the hopes to have 2 nights on/near the summit. That would allow getting to the summit late, plenty of time to explore the summit craters, all 3 summit peaks, ice caves, crater rim, sunset and sunrise etc. Also allow for an early start on descent day. Likely plan for 2 days to climb, 2 nights on the summit, one day descent PLUS one extra day for either slower climb, slower descent, or weather issues. Also, with carrying gear to the summit, there is the added safety of being able to bivouac anytime high on the mountain. You can look up the trip report on CC, as well as the discussion about this unusual trip. Anyone interested can PM me of look for my post on 'climbing partners"

Still have open rope for those who are interested! Exact dates will be determined once we know who is interested and, and their preferences. Allan

Planning another Mount Rainier climb, with nights camping on/near the summit. No I an not crazy! I just like to have a good adventure, and share that with others who like similar adventures. Tentative schedule would be early AM start day 1, alpine start and summit day 2, explore the summit zone day 3, (spend 2 nights on/near summit) descend day 4, and have day 5 is the optional wait-out-the-weather, climb or descend slower, spend more time at summit, or get off mountain and go play elsewhere. Looking at June 15-19 or 17-21. Did similar climb late last August, spending 4 days total, and had a great time! Didn't have nearly enough time to explore the summit features: East and West craters/crater rims, Liberty cap, Point success, Ice caves, Sunrise/Sunset... so figure we should just plan for 5 days with 2 nights at the summit and be more likely to come home even happier. First choice on route would be Emmons/Winthrop from Sunrise entrance. This is the route we took last August, and it was really broken up! Expect it should be much nicer in June, even with a low snow year. Other options would be south side routes, but prefer to keep the DC route as a back-up only. I really don't like the crowds and cattle track, unless necessary. Feel free to post here or PM me. Allan

Cool climb! Sounds like a good way to enjoy a clear winter day, and not have to worry about slushy afternoon snow. Allan

Looking to spend a bit of time in the Tetons. Will be in Yellowstone from June 11-24, with 2-3 of those days in Jackson Hole. Schedule is loose now, but need to get the reservations set soon. Have been up a dozen 14,000 foot mountains, including Rainier and Whitney, and a lot of Colorado rock. Will climb Middle Teton if I can't pull a team together.

Hey! The climb happened and you can see the trip report! For those interested, it was not nearly as 'bad' as some suggested, and even more enjoyable then I hoped. Plan to do another night or 2 on the top again!

Trip: Mount Rainier - Emmons/Winthrop varriant Date: 8/25/2014 Trip Report: Mount Rainier, 3 days with night on summit. I have had a dream of not just climbing to the summit of Mount Rainier, but to spend the night on/near the summit, allowing time to experience and explore a few of the summit features. I have had a number of 14,000 foot climbs with minutes spent at the top, but enjoyed climbs more when I had the time to linger. On Monday August 25th the adventure began when Russ Hall, along with Travis Nelson, picked me up at SeaTac airport. We drove over to the White River Ranger station to register the climb, and started up the mountain at 2:00PM. Under sunny skies, we made our way up the White River basin, climbed up the icy inter-glacier and made camp Curtis, set up camp and enjoyed the scenery over supper. Travis, Russ, Allan Note the large crevasse that encircles the summit from southeast around to the north side, as well as the large crevasses visible from the White River Basin. Tuesday morning we packed up and had a leisurely climb to camp Schurman, where we lunched and discussed whether to proceed up to Emmons flats, or stay where there was melt water and toilet. We decided to explore a bit, so Russ and I climbed up to Emmons flats, and then about 500 feet higher, hoping to find a camp-able site to allow a head start in the morning. Unfortunately, the route directly above was blocked by a large crevasse. We descended and scouted a suitable place to cross left, up onto the crevassed slope of the corridor. Spent the remainder of the day getting beta from a group that had attempted the summit that day. Nice evening with continued clear skies, and good stargazing. Note: Route shown is not precise, as many crevasses are not visible from this angle. Wednesday morning we awoke early for an alpine start from Camp Schruman. Headed on up the Emmons, navigating through the crevassed lower corridor by headlamp and alpen glow. Under clear skies, we watched the sunrise and the breathtaking landscape unfold. Significant crevasses necessitated climbing back and forth up the Emmons Glacier, and to the right of the usual corridor route. Took a moment to inspect and photograph a large crevasse between the Emmons Withrop glaciers. (rotate picture) At mid day snack break, we discussed if we felt that we could reach the summit, as significant detours around crevasses, as well as sketchy snow bridge crossings, had delayed our progress. We all agreed to press on up, and crossed up and over crevasse onto the upper Winthrop glacier, about even with the tops of Russel Cliffs, above gaping crevasses. Above us loomed the large corniced crevasse that blocked the direct route to the summit. Large Overhanging Crevasse Boot-packing our way, we continued up and around the north side, and we were able to get past the large crevasse and climbed directly up the northwest side of the summit crater rim, between Liberty Cap and the summit. Achieved the summit a bit after 3:00. Allan on summit After a breezy rest and good round of pictures, we headed down into the summit crater to set up camp. Expanded and improved the existing tent pad and boiled up some supper, then had a bit of rest. Near sundown, we all headed back up to the summit for more pictures and leisurely watched the sunset. Then back down for a good nights rest. A bit breezy up top, but not bad by our tents. Sunset from Top of Mount Rainier Last rays of Sunset, Mount Rainier Awoke with the sunrise, and witnessed the climbers coming up the DC route and crossing the crater for the summit. Packed up camp and headed back to the north crater rim. With significantly stronger winds (~45mph) and frequent stronger gusts (~60mph) whipping across the north slopes, Russ recommended we descend the DC, and we all agreed that sounded like better footing. The DC route traversed over onto the upper Emmons glacier, allowing a good view east, then back toward the clever. The route was well packed, allowing for sure footing and sightseeing. Descended the rock and scree of the clever, as the snow option was out. Hustled on down the mountain, and at Camp Muir, Russ ran on ahead to retrieve his truck from the White River parking lot. Travis and I had a more leisurely trip down the snowfield and the blooming meadows of Paradise. Met up at the visitors center, the headed to Whittaker's for burgers and pizza, then back to Seattle. All agreed that we had a great climb, good weather, and a good time. Travis and I both think that 2 nights on the summit would allow for more summit activities, including time to explore the ice caves. Maybe next year! A bit earlier in the season would allow for more direct climbing route.

Congrats on reaching the summit! Cool pics, nice report. Hope to summit myself in 2 weeks, if all things go well.

Still have room for more over-night on the summit adventure climbers. Respond here or send a PM.

So last week we added a climber, and this week one pulled out (life/location change). Still have a end of the rope free....

Quick review of plans. Climb starts Monday August 25th, with hopes for night on summit either Tuesday or Wednesday. If needed, could spend Thursday night on summit with early quick descent Friday. Planing Emmons/Winthrop climb, subject to revision if conditions warrant. Still have room for at least 1 more climber! So if interested, let me know.

We are still planning the climb for August. One climber has pulled out due to schedule conflicts, so if there is a hearty soul looking for a summit adventure, either respond here or send a PM. Exact route depends on conditions, group skills, and consensus.

Looking like the consensus is either the DC or Emmons, though the Kautz sure looks intriguing! Since 'better safe then sorry' allows for future adventures, will likely hold off on the Kautz (unless the group pulls that way)

So a quick review of the late August options, with potentially few other options dependent upon snow pack, cool late summer, etc.: Disappointment Cleaver or Emmons/Winthrop Glaciers, each option having camps and some 'crowds'. Both options are good, popular routes. Kautz Glacier, which will require additional skills of quick rappel/belay into ice chute, and steep ice with belay/running belay,up the chute.

Big Mitch-- Sage advice. As the group comes together we will have to see what the least common denominator is. It is clear that roped protection is necessary for the Kautz, so we will have to have the skills if we go that way. Allan

Still planning on this climb, with hopes for a night on the summit. Could add a couple more climbers, if anyone is free and interested, send me your contact info. Have been reviewing route beta, and am increasingly jealous of all the folks just a couple hours from rainier! A bit saddened that many routes are not available or 'safe' late in August. Depending on the conditions, the choices may be down to Ingraham Direct/Disappointment Cleaver, Emmons/Winthrop Glaciers, or Kautz Glacier. Each route get to the summit, which is the main goal, but I prefer less crowded or congested route, at least for the ascent. Here's hoping for lots more snow, and a late, slow melt, to allow more route options!

Anyone interested in getting in on the planning phase of this climb, send me a PM (personal message) with your E-mail address please.

With the New Year upon us, and the bulk of the Holiday business behind, I am looking forward to a new year of outdoor fun and adventure! That will hopefully start once the worst of the winter icebox breaks! Today reached a brisk -2, and tonight's low is forecast -20 to -25, and has been unseasonable cold for weeks. In the mean time, it is P90X for me! I am planning on flying out to be ready to climb Mount Rainier on Monday August 25th. The rest of my vacationing family will fly out Friday August 29th, so I will have 4 1/2 days to fit in the climb and explore the area.

Yes, I am still looking for poeple for this climb! Good to have some gear already in Washington, as flying with gear and everything for a 2 week vacation gets tight! Glad to hear from those interested. As the group develops, we can discuss logistics and route options. I am open to routes, as long as it is not too technical. I am good for 'class 3' scrambles and bouldering, exposure to make a mountain goat blink, and steep snow/ice, but have limited wall experience.

I too have sat out on, or near, summits, while it rain, sleet, snow and blow sideways. I believe I have donned the raingear on 6 of my 12 14,000 foot summits, and about half of the 'lesser' summits. Even more fun with lightening! I feel it is all part of mountaineering, part of the adventure, the excitement. For those willing to climb with a schedule that allows the flexibility to explore, to wait out the weather, and try for a night on the summit, keep in touch! My plans now have me in Washington the week of August 24th, 2014. Might not be the optimal week, but likely in the best 90%. The "cattle tracks" should be well established, so a tired or quick descent is an option.

Penitentes are interesting, and I have seen the effect, though not nearly as intense as the picture above. I do believe that the posted picture was taken near the disapointment cleaver, not the summit. IF there are significant penitentes in the summit crater, I expect that a suitable campsite can still be found somewhere in or near the crater, or at least near the summit. If no campsite can be found or carved out, then descending is still an option. I just want to have options: routes, campsite, daylight climb, and potential to explore the summit/crater/ice caves. I desire NOT to be on the expressway track with all the guided climbers. With options comes the need to cary the gear to be safe, and the possibility of a windy, tent flapping night. Robert Frost wrote about roads: "I took the one less traveled by, And that has made all the difference."

http://www.turns-all-year.com/skiing_snowboarding/trip_reports/index.php?topic=10009.0 Thanks for posting the linked article. Was a good read, and good outcome for the 2 adventurers. I do know that in pursuing this adventure, I need to be cognizant of the changing weather, snow, wind, ice and visibility. I would like the freedom to enjoy the climb, the changing views, and the possibility of taking time to explore the summit crater, ice caves, and views from each side of the crater. Certainly know that this is a summit attempt, and may have to bivy below the summit, wait for weather, suffer the weather at the summit, and even turn back if the summit is not safely attainable.

Will be in WA 8/29 through 9/6, so would add time to climb the week of 8/25 or 9/7. I believe either would work, weather permitting, so it is up to whatever works for the group. Days get shorter quicker close to the equinox, but even 12 hours of sun allows for a good long climb. Peaked Longs the second week of September, with a foot of fresh snow, and it was a nice long day!