Hall

Today I experimented with this technique on a low-angle flow near Leavenworth. I was NOT in any hurry to get down, and I HAD other rap options, but I thought I'd give this a method a try. I built a horizontal V-thread with a 17cm screw, and threaded my single 10mm rope through it. I realize that this method is intended for skinny half and twin ropes, but after a little trouble grabbing the rope with the hook, it eventually pulled through. I then rapped as usual, wondering if the rope would freeze with temps in the low 30s and some water dripping. It didn't, and pulled flawlessly. I probably would NOT do this with a 10mm rope in a "real" situation because it could be time consuming or impossible to thread is fat of a rope. I got lucky with a near perfectly aligned V-thread, but this does not always happen. The ice was bomber, and I had no doubts about safety in this case.

pm sent

I agree with the rest of the posts. Save the money and take the first oppertunity to spend 2-4 weeks at a climbing destination (Valley, City of Rocks, Indian Creek, Index). Keep in mind that any trad partner that you meet is likely to have gear as well, so doubling up is easy if needed. You have more stuff than you need for most climbs, and if you start doing easy alpine rock climbs, the pressure will be to take less, not more. You'll be leaving those big cams at home as often as possible!

I 2nd the need for p1 anchors Regular Route, Careno. Also Off Duty on Duty Dome has a Leeper sheet metal thing and a vintage '80s SMC for an anchor (3/8 studs, at least). Great route. Old bolts. I have some bolts, hangers, and Fixe ring anchors, but no power drill. I would be willing to put in some time/gear if someone has the power!

pm sent

pm sent

I have climbed with some Russian friends that I met in college for about 10 years. Most of what has been said is true. 1) They are very regimented. They won't climb a 5.9 until they have climbed 20 5.8's. This is a through-back to the Soviet competitive systems 2) "Getting to the top" is everything. They will hang on a climb for an hour, completely wasting themselves, then pull on gear and/or go way off route just to get to the anchors. 3) In Russia, their is very little cragging available (and no dirtbag/weekend warrior roadtripping). Most climbers train by climbing trees or buildings, then go on a 2-3 month "holiday" in the summer to some remote region (Tien Shen, Altay) where they siege their objectives. I am generalizing, of course, but this comes from personal communication.

Great that this design will again be available, but what a terrible name! "Basic" cam? If they could buy/license/steal the design, why couldn't they keep the name?

FYI there's snow above about 5k, and it looks like 6" to 1' above 6K. Might make WA pass/Prusik/Colchuck/Stuart iffy. Here in Leavenworth, Snow Creek wall dried out today. If your willing to go this far, look me up! 20eight-59six-048nine. Matt

The pack, glasses, and cams are sold.

The glasses, pack, boots, cams, and shell gloves are pending.

Sorry All, The Koflachs are Mens 10.5-11.0. The only tag that can still be read says "EU 10.5", which I assume is the UK size. They fit at about US 11.0.

Cleaned out the gear closet and have some stuff to sell or give away! PM me for more info. Price includes shipping. I live in Leavenworth. If you can pick up the price will be less. La Sportiva Makalus 40.5 in very good condition w/ superfeet insoles. No laces $85.00 Koflach Degree plastic boots. Mens 10.5-11.0 Well used with lots of scratches. Liners in good shape. Tread 65%? Fully functional. $60 Metolius 4 cam units. Sizes 5,7,9. Seen very little use. $25 each SOLD Black Diamond shell gloves. Medium. Not Goretex/BDry. Just nylon with leather palms. Very good condition. $20 Arterxy Khamsin 30 pack. Well used. Some straps/backles missing/cutt-off. Main compartment and zippered lid. No holes or tears. $25SOLD Heat ring for MSR pots. Perfect condition. $10 or FREE with pick up. Black Diamond ATC gold belay device with Omega locking biner. Used, but not abused. $15 Black Diamond ATC red belay device with Omega locking biner. Used, but not abused. $15 Black Diamond Schoeller softshell glove. RIGHT ONLY. Size Medium. Excellent condition. Found somewhere. $5 or FREE with pickup Black Diamond Ice climbing/skiing glove. RIGHT ONLY. Insulated and BDry. Leather palm. Medium Found somewhere. Excellent condition. $10 or FREE with pick up. Julbo Colorado glacier glasses. No case. Very good condition. $20SOLD

Scenic Bouldering Cragging Humor Skiing Ice Climbing

Took these while working on a photo-essay on "vintage" gear. Never got around to finishing it.