B Deleted_Beck

Nevermind. Have a safe trip, if you get a good partner!

Well I've simmered on 'em before, and I was able to get this one to simmer, after some frustration and finesse. I guess the problem is with my expectations- which have now been altered. Problem solved! Thanks for replies

Hood is really in her prime in the winter.. watch avy conditions and watch for a weather window, like Alex says, and you're gold. I'd definitely recommend going up with somebody who's got some winter climbing experience, though... so any unexpected weather that does roll in doesn't result in a giant ducks2013-flavored Otterpop.

Howdy I bought a new Jetboil Flash on Friday. This weekend I took it up on a climb and was irritated to discover the gas knob was super touchy and inconsistent- crank the gas up, it flares up then starts to die off and pitters out unless you crank it up even more.. then when your shit is boiling and starting to spill over, it seemed like it was all or nothing- full blast, or off. If I was SUPER careful, I could get a happy medium for simmering, but only after spilling soup all over the place and burning myself and forcefully stopping my angier alter-ego from throwing the thing into the void. Anyway... I was going to throw it in the truck tonight and take it back to REI tomorrow after work, but the thought just occurred to me- maybe it's just the gas canister that sucks. I don't have another one to try out... Experiences? Thanks -Ben

Little update on the Kautz- I just got back from a failed solo attempt. Unfortunately, I got no higher than 10,000'.. but from what I could see, the Chute looked in, and the glacier above lightly crevasses and easily passable. The approach is lame- lots of steep scree climbing (and descending). The best way to describe the snow is "oily." Once above the ramp connecting the Nisqual to the Wilson, the glacier is not bad- lots of crevasses, but very passable (if oily). My problem was that I didn't get out of the ranger station with an approved solo permit till AFTER TWO OCLOCK yesterday, didn't make it to Camp Hazard before dark, and then either slept through my alarm or it's time to get a new watch... whatever the case, I listened to serac and rockfall thundering all through the night, and watched a piece fall off the upper Kautz as I approached this morning.... not optimal, me thinks. Gonna have to wait till it's resolidified before I'll give it a go again. On another note.... What's up with all those waterfalls in the Nisqually canyon? Awesomer winter approach variation, I'm thinking...

Check your rack... you lost more than that. I got your helium- Ian has your matching walnut. Happy day, eh?

Were you the group of 4 that let us play through? My partner dropped his radio at the belay for pitch 3, so we went back around and looked for it after we topped out.. that's when we found the gear. Green and yeller marking tape, if that helps. More under Young Warriors than "at the base of SE Corner," I guess... but I'd just sort of assumed it'd all been dropped by somebody on pitch 3 of SEC.

Nor do I... however I happen to know for a fact that the final 200' is a steep scramble up perpetually falling melon-sized loose rock. Last year it was still climable right now. This year, not gonna be climbable again till we get some substantial snow this fall.

For free, or you lookin' to pay?

Well I guess I'm of some utility if it's being violated in the District of Oregon. What happens when a case spans multiple states? Do you seriously need to get licensed in each?

You should start by checking the Forest Lands Recreation Enhancement Act of 2004 to see if there are more districts violating the law

Phuck your broken ass lost ass mu'fuckin shattered purple plastic ass radio.

Found three pieces of gear tonight, two of which had matching marking tape... tell me what it is, and I'll get it back to you! -Ben

My partner left his Gri under Hanging Gardens - And it should be mentioned that the unit is malfunctioning and does not autoblock... so if'n you found it, don't use it. We were going to infestigate the cause of the mank and probably send it in to Petzl. Anybody grab it?

By "membrane," I just meant whatever the filmy coating is inside there. I'll spray the pack down with DWR... I already use water-proofed stuff sacks for everything, so I guess it's not that big o deal. But I've had all my shit get soaked with leaky packs- one of the thing I've been really impressed with Deadbird packs is that they actually do seem to stay dry. Guess I'll go back to tactics of the past.

I need this one to last one more winter... I'm currently making less than half of what I was making 10 years ago.

Anybody ever tried to DWR or Scotchguard a pack? This deterioration of the waterproof membrane is really disappointing

What did you climb?

I'm afraid I didn't descend the South Spur... I descended my climbing route

I just noticed that the waterproofing on the inside of the nylon seems to be degrading and is patchy... Seems like perhaps a hand-scrub in the bathtub would be a better option...?

I've never cleaned a pack before... I guess I've never had one get so stinky before. My Khamsin is fappin' nasty- crusty food and Rockstar spills, dirt and sap, bro's stale smoke, and worse, the straps smell like some killer BO- something I've not had happen on other packs. Straight up smells like a bum, sitting in my office/gear room. I'm thinking about trying to take the frame out and throwing it in the washing machine with the Dawn Pure soap I use to wash all my other gear.. Any reason that wouldn't work? Is there a better way? What do you do? Arc'Teryx, as we all know, is proud of their shit- don't want to have to replace it any time soon. Thanks

I leave about four inches.. just long enough for a "yosemite finish"... where you tuck the tail back inside the knot. A fraction of a percent safer than leaving it un-finished, but without any extra effort.

Nice! Looks like an adventure.. really want to do this someday sooner than later

I've been getting conflicting beta for that one... some guys say it's prime right now, others say it's "out." I guess it's probably one of those things that depends entirely on the experience and preferences of the beta-giver- some guys hate ice.

Howdy Thinking about doing Rainier this labor day weekend.. Any good challenging and/or technical, but not too suicidal routes left this time of year? Zero interest in walkups.. Just looking for steep snow/ice (I'm assuming MI is completely out of the question).. Thanks -Ben